Wanting To Get A Graphics Card For My System
#21
Posted 23 April 2014 - 12:23 PM
#22
Posted 23 April 2014 - 03:28 PM
Summon3r, on 23 April 2014 - 06:49 AM, said:
try hitting up pcpartpicker.com and putting your exact system specs into a build, the filter there will show what PSU and what grfx card are compatible with your mobo/case
It's a OEM HP Off the Shelf Computer so his Case won't be on PcPartPicker, his Mobo might not even be on there also:
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16883147413
#23
Posted 23 April 2014 - 04:20 PM
Lord Letto, on 23 April 2014 - 03:28 PM, said:
Here's HP's support page for it. It has some service manuals and stuff.
Edited by ThatBum42, 23 April 2014 - 04:24 PM.
#24
Posted 23 April 2014 - 05:24 PM
What would happen if my 240W PSU is not sufficient to power the R7 240? Would it damage the card or would it just refuse to run?
At least 2 people on the Newegg Q&A section for the R7 240 claim that they can run the card on a 200-250W PSU and "are doing fine." Are they potentially damaging their card, or does this mean that (barring poor PSU quality) a 240W PSU is sufficient for the card?
#25
Posted 23 April 2014 - 05:25 PM
#26
Posted 23 April 2014 - 05:39 PM
There is a reason this is listed as a "business desktop". It is designed to be a plop in solution en mass for a small to medium sized business where everybody has standardized equipment. It has what the average Excel worksheet drone needs to do the job at hand, with no frills. Because of this, it simply is not going to work as a gaming rig. I can understand budget concerns, and free to very little means a lot in my eyes. However, there is a point where you just have to say it isn't worth the trouble. Those before have given some very helpful tips on small things that could be done or case mods that could be attempted, but the bottom line is this is not a PC to play modern games on. I'm sorry to be the bearer of harsh news, as I truly feel where you are coming from, but you will not like this game or really many other modern games with that system. And chances are it won't last the 5 year upgrade schedule you profess. That system is already 4 years old (http://www.hp.com/hp...3106005pro.html ). That processor was very good for its time, one of the best dual core Athlons to be had, really. However, it isn't worth trying to build a modern gaming rig around. Any "ultra-slim, energy efficient" (straight from HP's promo page) PC is the bane of PC gaming. You can get away with playing games from 2012 or story games maybe that don't require dedicated graphics, but that is about it. I would not even attempt to upgrade this PC. Saving for a few months is the best option. If you can get $400-500 saved by summer, you can build a decent rig that as stated before would net you medium performance. But there is a small silver lining - you can reuse the optical drive (Sorry for the poor attempt at humor).
#27
Posted 23 April 2014 - 05:52 PM
It was in this computer and I believe it was a 400W. It was caused by replacing the 7300LE GPU with a 8500GT, after about a week of operating with it installed. Fortunately, the protections in the unit prevented anything else from getting damaged and I later replaced it with a 650W BFGTech model, but I've heard stories of failed PSUs taking everything else down with them from a power spike.
So be careful if you do decide to upgrade.
Edited by ThatBum42, 23 April 2014 - 05:53 PM.
#28
Posted 23 April 2014 - 05:56 PM
Golrar, on 23 April 2014 - 05:39 PM, said:
There is a reason this is listed as a "business desktop". It is designed to be a plop in solution en mass for a small to medium sized business where everybody has standardized equipment. It has what the average Excel worksheet drone needs to do the job at hand, with no frills. Because of this, it simply is not going to work as a gaming rig. I can understand budget concerns, and free to very little means a lot in my eyes. However, there is a point where you just have to say it isn't worth the trouble. Those before have given some very helpful tips on small things that could be done or case mods that could be attempted, but the bottom line is this is not a PC to play modern games on. I'm sorry to be the bearer of harsh news, as I truly feel where you are coming from, but you will not like this game or really many other modern games with that system. And chances are it won't last the 5 year upgrade schedule you profess. That system is already 4 years old (http://www.hp.com/hp...3106005pro.html ). That processor was very good for its time, one of the best dual core Athlons to be had, really. However, it isn't worth trying to build a modern gaming rig around. Any "ultra-slim, energy efficient" (straight from HP's promo page) PC is the bane of PC gaming. You can get away with playing games from 2012 or story games maybe that don't require dedicated graphics, but that is about it. I would not even attempt to upgrade this PC. Saving for a few months is the best option. If you can get $400-500 saved by summer, you can build a decent rig that as stated before would net you medium performance. But there is a small silver lining - you can reuse the optical drive (Sorry for the poor attempt at humor).
I appreciate you telling me the truth without sugar coating it. I do understand what you are saying, but if I lasted for over a year on this game with 10 fps, then 10-15 fps for a few more years to come is not that bad for me. Besides, this is by far the most modern game I play. I am still playing old PC games from the Early 2000's.
If this desktop breaks before 5 years is up, well, I'll just go back to my Pentium 4 and stick to homework. I guess if no one else has anymore suggestions besides the R7 240, then I will try that sometime soon and report back if the card fits/runs/whatever.
ThatBum42, on 23 April 2014 - 05:52 PM, said:
It was in this computer and I believe it was a 400W. It was caused by replacing the 7300LE GPU with a 8500GT, after about a week of operating with it installed. Fortunately, the protections in the unit prevented anything else from getting damaged and I later replaced it with a 650W BFGTech model, but I've heard stories of failed PSUs taking everything else down with them from a power spike.
So be careful if you do decide to upgrade.
Did it give any signs that is was going to fail before it did? Might be useful to know the symptoms of PSU failure before I get the card and use it.
#29
Posted 23 April 2014 - 07:36 PM
shellashock, on 23 April 2014 - 05:56 PM, said:
If the PSU is slowly failing, symptoms might include:
- shutting down or restarting during high load
- occasional failing to start, BIOS beep codes may be heard
- memory corruption
- fans or hard disks not spinning due to lack of +12V
- USB devices operating intermittently
- increased sensitivity to AC line noise/voltage fluctuations, such as the machine shutting down when starting a large appliance in the house, eg. washing machine.
#30
Posted 23 April 2014 - 08:20 PM
#31
Posted 23 April 2014 - 11:27 PM
Summon3r, on 21 April 2014 - 07:15 PM, said:
until a couple of weeks ago I was playing on an i3 with a gtx 650 with no problems.
on high settings.
#33
Posted 24 April 2014 - 12:17 PM
Not that there's much capacity left in ether core, nor the card, but that's how I found the stuff I posted, above.
#34
Posted 24 April 2014 - 02:43 PM
shellashock, on 23 April 2014 - 05:56 PM, said:
If this desktop breaks before 5 years is up, well, I'll just go back to my Pentium 4 and stick to homework. I guess if no one else has anymore suggestions besides the R7 240, then I will try that sometime soon and report back if the card fits/runs/whatever.
I hope it works out for you. I hope you get better fps with that investment. Let us know how it pans out.
Did it give any signs that is was going to fail before it did? Might be useful to know the symptoms of PSU failure before I get the card and use it.
#35
Posted 07 May 2014 - 08:06 AM
Note: All games tested with Jenner F @ 150 km
Testing Grounds: ( no v sync)
If I am on my best map (caustic valley), I will be running @ 90 fps with everything on low except for textures (very high) with occasional dips into 60 with lots of action barring shader generation. On my worst map (river city night with night vision), I will be running 60 fps with dips into 30 if there is lots of action.
If everything is maxed, it will be 60 consistently with dips into 30 on the best maps and 45 to 30 on the worst maps.
Real Play: (no v sync)
Alpine: average of 30 fps with occasional dips into 25 on HEAVY fire and smoke and highs of 60 fps when against a wall.
Crimson Strait: average of 30 fps with occasional dips into 25 on HEAVY fire and smoke and highs of 60 fps in the water.
Frozen City: average of 30 fps with dips into 25 pretty much anytime I am near mechs and highs of 45 occasionally.
Conclusion:
I am very impressed with this card and I have been consistently getting at least 30 fps across almost every map barring Frozen city. Thank you to everyone who helped me and special thanks to "Catamount" and "Goose" for helping me identify what kind of card would fit my system best and how to tweak MW:O settings to get the maximum performance out of the card.
So far the card has been running on my computer for two days and I have had no issues that would indicate that my PSU is struggling to meet demands. Thanks to "ThatBum42" for telling me what to watch out for.
Thank you for your help and see you on the battlefield!
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