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Mwo Is Cooking My Cpu


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#1 mark v92

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Posted 15 April 2015 - 12:49 PM

So ive got a bit of a problem here. Now that we start to have some warmer weather here im having some problems with my cpu. I have a AMD FX-8150 Eight core 3.6Ghz. In turbo mode it runs at 4.3Ghz. Thats pretty nice and all but my heatsink cant take it so when im playing mwo it heats up to 90c and shuts down. i can barely keep it at 80c with my air conditioner pointed at it and the case open. This while its about 18c outside with the window open.

I can limit the Ghz to 3.3 and it will stay at max 40c. While this is a nice temp, going from 4.3 to 3.3 Ghz is a big differents and i lose a lot of fps. Ive had this problem before and at the time i bought a new cpu cooler (Arctic Freezer 13). This lasted through the winter but its not helping anymore.

Is there a way to make it run in between the turbo core mode (4.3Ghz) and the max i can limit it (3.3Ghz)? Guessing 4.0Ghz should be enough.

Having no issue with other games atm. Only with star citizen but thats pushing my pc on a whole new level compared to mwo.

specs:
cpu: AMD FX-8150 Eight core @ 4.3Ghz, cooled by arctic freezer 13
gpu: Sapphire HD 7870 2gb
ram: 16gb
moba: Gigabyte GA-990XA-UD3, AM3+
case: dunno but 1 big fan on top, 2 fans in front, 1in the back and 1 on the bottom. (case is open atm)

Edited by mark v92, 15 April 2015 - 12:57 PM.


#2 OldManRae_IS

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Posted 15 April 2015 - 01:31 PM

MWO is CPU heavy. My suggestion would be to do as I did when I built my rig. Water cool the CPU.

For $65-$85.00 US you can get a good water cooler for you CPU. Fans Suck

#3 Goose

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Posted 15 April 2015 - 01:31 PM

An Arctic Freezer 13 might handle a mild overclock on a Haswell, but not that old FX.

I don't know why people think opening the case is a good idea, ever: All those fans would have to blowing in the wrong direction in the first place for that to help. Bottom and Front are intakes, right?

Teh Big Solution for you would be to spring for an FX-8370E, salvaging the mobo and maybe the cooler, but your cheapest gambit right now is to look ask PCPartPicker And Clean your Damn Computer

#4 xWiredx

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Posted 15 April 2015 - 02:30 PM

A cheap AIO along with some MX-4 or MX-2 would probably go a long way as long as the other intake/exhaust fans and inside of the case are pretty clean.

If you have zero budget, I suggest you start saving pennies until you've got like $50 or more to throw at this.

#5 Lord Letto

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Posted 15 April 2015 - 02:45 PM

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($25.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($6.89 @ SuperBiiz)
Case Fan: Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition (2-Pack) 62.7 CFM 120mm Fans ($27.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $58.52
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-04-15 18:45 EDT-0400

#6 Insects

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Posted 15 April 2015 - 02:54 PM

Spend $20 on a heatsink.
Otherwise underclock it if you aren't going to fit the cooling a high performance CPU demands.

#7 mark v92

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Posted 15 April 2015 - 03:18 PM

thanks for the reply guys!

View Postjoelmuzz, on 15 April 2015 - 02:54 PM, said:

Spend $20 on a heatsink.
Otherwise underclock it if you aren't going to fit the cooling a high performance CPU demands.


i did spend 30 euro's on my arctic freezer 13 cpu cooler. worked for about a year but now its overheating again.
and no dust

also i am a 3d designer and when im rendering it doesnt overheat. 100% load at 3.9Ghz. MWO gets hotter...

i just limited the Ghz to 3.3 and then removed the limit again and now it doesnt climb up to 4.3Ghz anymore. only to 3.9Ghz which is a bit cooler

Edited by mark v92, 15 April 2015 - 03:22 PM.


#8 Goose

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Posted 15 April 2015 - 04:00 PM

View Postmark v92, on 15 April 2015 - 03:18 PM, said:

also i am a 3d designer and when im rendering it doesnt overheat. 100% load at 3.9Ghz. MWO gets hotter...

OK: What's your graphics card? Is it a blower-style, so it flushes its' heat out the back, or is it an axel model, defecating BTUs all over the place?

Verly: I say "Yar"

#9 Grendel408

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Posted 15 April 2015 - 04:03 PM

Before you go and spend more money... think of this first.

You overclock your CPU from 3.6 to 4.3Ghz, that alone is going to increase the heat by a good factor. Given you've done that... its wise to check your thermal paste on the CPU.

Consider purchasing a CPU liquid cooler for your PC that's compatible with your setup. Buy a better PC tower that can allow more case fans if you cannot afford liquid cooling (a good case will cost as much as a good liquid cooler). Ultimately if you buy a new PC tower, you'll need to buy case fans which can run $20 USD each (coolermaster or corsair).

Clean your PC weekly or bi-weekly... make it dust free... dust bad! :D

Or... save up and build a nice gaming PC for around $900 USD ;)

Edited by Grendel408, 15 April 2015 - 04:04 PM.


#10 mark v92

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Posted 15 April 2015 - 04:26 PM

View PostGoose, on 15 April 2015 - 04:00 PM, said:

OK: What's your graphics card? Is it a blower-style, so it flushes its' heat out the back, or is it an axel model, defecating BTUs all over the place?

Verly: I say "Yar"


Posted Image

Sapphire HD 7870 2gb

i guess it just blows against the card and doesnt flush

View PostGrendel408, on 15 April 2015 - 04:03 PM, said:

Before you go and spend more money... think of this first.

You overclock your CPU from 3.6 to 4.3Ghz, that alone is going to increase the heat by a good factor. Given you've done that... its wise to check your thermal paste on the CPU.

Consider purchasing a CPU liquid cooler for your PC that's compatible with your setup. Buy a better PC tower that can allow more case fans if you cannot afford liquid cooling (a good case will cost as much as a good liquid cooler). Ultimately if you buy a new PC tower, you'll need to buy case fans which can run $20 USD each (coolermaster or corsair).

Clean your PC weekly or bi-weekly... make it dust free... dust bad! :D

Or... save up and build a nice gaming PC for around $900 USD ;)


Yeah was planning on buying a new pc this summer. probably with liquid cooling. needs to stay cool while gaming and rendering. I already got the arctic freezer 13 cooler on it which seems like a big heatsink. It might not be worth it to spend more money on this thing now when im planning on buying a new setup. Was hoping to just replace the cpu, gpu and mobo.
maybe going intel now since the prices have dropped a bit. Those cpu's might be cooler since i heard amd overall is pretty hot. Just looking for the most bang for my buck and reliability since it will often be rendering day and night.

sucks im having overheating problems with mwo and i also need to know it wont shut down to overheating when im rendering since i might not be home when it does that.

#11 Goose

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Posted 15 April 2015 - 04:56 PM

View Postmark v92, on 15 April 2015 - 04:26 PM, said:

i guess it just blows against the card and doesnt flush

Yeah …

View Postmark v92, on 15 April 2015 - 04:26 PM, said:

Yeah was planning on buying a new pc this summer. probably with liquid cooling. needs to stay cool while gaming and rendering. I already got the arctic freezer 13 cooler on it which seems like a big heatsink. It might not be worth it to spend more money on this thing now when im planning on buying a new setup. Was hoping to just replace the cpu, gpu and mobo.

maybe going intel now since the prices have dropped a bit. Those cpu's might be cooler since i heard amd overall is pretty hot. Just looking for the most bang for my buck and reliability since it will often be rendering day and night.

sucks im having overheating problems with mwo and i also need to know it wont shut down to overheating when im rendering since i might not be home when it does that.

So, the bad news is that Freezer 13 is AMD-only, IIRC. http://www.arctic.ac...freezer-13.html

Your cheapest option is the FX-8370E, and/ or a new blower-style card, in your current box.

The good news is you sound like you have time to think things though and go Intel. ;)

You should get a copy of Prime95, MSI Kombuster (or FurMark,) and something to watch temps, like HWiNFO64: Watch how your temps move as you run one, the other, and both …

Teh motherboard temps, in particular.

Edited by Goose, 16 April 2015 - 09:26 AM.


#12 Goose

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Posted 15 April 2015 - 05:47 PM

Ugh: Burnt too much time, guessing at your case

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD FX-8370E 3.3GHz 8-Core Processor ($189.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Arctic Cooling ACFZ13 36.4 CFM CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-990XA-UD3 ATX AM3+ Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Trident X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory ($140.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: OCZ ARC 100 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($88.54 @ Amazon)
Storage: Toshiba 5TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($139.99 @ Micro Center)
Video Card: PNY GeForce GTX 960 2GB XLR8 Video Card ($182.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: LEPA MaxGold 700W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($66.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($12.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $822.47
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-04-15 21:46 EDT-0400

Base Total: $866.48
Promo Discounts: -$33.98
Mail-in Rebates: -$20.00
Shipping: $9.97
Total: $822.47

Oh: And get an Antec Spotcool for your VRMs …

Edited by Goose, 16 April 2015 - 09:19 AM.


#13 Tarl Cabot

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Posted 15 April 2015 - 07:30 PM

1st. Turbo mode is the standard layperson's overclocking but it is not a standard OC. In Turbo mode more power is sent to fewer and fewer cores, and those cores multiplier/blck speed is increased.

2nd. Obtain Artic Silver Thermal Paste and redo it, making sure the heatsink is sitting firmly in place.
2a. Are you able to manually control the fan speeds, using Speedfan or such? I would seriously look at that part. In the past other players have posted heat issues and a few of them were from the fans not ramping up or not ramping up quick enough. There may very well be an issue there.

3rd. Take control of your system and clocking by going through Bios or if AMD Overdrive will work for your system. Turn off the Turbo Boost. Manually set the BCKL/HT Ref (aka FSB-Front Side Bus/Bus Frequency) to 200mhz and CPU Multiplier to 17x or 18x or 19x (3.6ghz or 3.8ghz) to start off with.

There are websites that can provide more info on OC and such, but make sure to review a few of them before going further.

http://www.overclock...0-support-added

Edited by Tarl Cabot, 15 April 2015 - 07:45 PM.


#14 Malakie

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Posted 15 April 2015 - 08:17 PM

View Postmark v92, on 15 April 2015 - 12:49 PM, said:

So ive got a bit of a problem here. Now that we start to have some warmer weather here im having some problems with my cpu. I have a AMD FX-8150 Eight core 3.6Ghz. In turbo mode it runs at 4.3Ghz. Thats pretty nice and all but my heatsink cant take it so when im playing mwo it heats up to 90c and shuts down. i can barely keep it at 80c with my air conditioner pointed at it and the case open. This while its about 18c outside with the window open.

I can limit the Ghz to 3.3 and it will stay at max 40c. While this is a nice temp, going from 4.3 to 3.3 Ghz is a big differents and i lose a lot of fps. Ive had this problem before and at the time i bought a new cpu cooler (Arctic Freezer 13). This lasted through the winter but its not helping anymore.

Is there a way to make it run in between the turbo core mode (4.3Ghz) and the max i can limit it (3.3Ghz)? Guessing 4.0Ghz should be enough.

Having no issue with other games atm. Only with star citizen but thats pushing my pc on a whole new level compared to mwo.

specs:
cpu: AMD FX-8150 Eight core @ 4.3Ghz, cooled by arctic freezer 13
gpu: Sapphire HD 7870 2gb
ram: 16gb
moba: Gigabyte GA-990XA-UD3, AM3+
case: dunno but 1 big fan on top, 2 fans in front, 1in the back and 1 on the bottom. (case is open atm)



run a liquid CPU cooler, problem solved.

BTW, I don't bother overclocking.. instead I went with two top end video cards in SLI mode.. things stay nice and cool and I get max performance without needed to change into OC or mess with anything else.

Edited by Malakie, 15 April 2015 - 08:19 PM.


#15 Durant Carlyle

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Posted 15 April 2015 - 08:42 PM

From what I see in the OP, the CPU wasn't being overclocked intentionally. Stock speed is 3.6GHz, but it can use Turbo Core to get to 4.2GHz by default. Maybe the Gigabyte overclocks the bus slightly to get it to 4.3GHz, but even so that's not much of an overclock and it shouldn't send the CPU rocketing to 90°C like that.

And that 8150's only a 125W part, so that Arctic Cooling 13 should be able to handle it. The spec sheet says it can cool up to 200W. Hell, I use the stock Intel cooler on my 4690K and I have worse case cooling, yet it doesn't overheat, and the Arctic Freezer 13 is MUCH better than the stock Intel.

No need to complicate things by turning off Turbo or anything like that. Let the CPU do its own clocking. But you do need to find out why your CPU is suddenly overheating.

Check to make sure cooler mount is stable. To be sure, unmount the cooler, reapply thermal paste, and remount the cooler. Or maybe the fan isn't spinning as fast as it should be?

The default air cooling in the case looks to be better than average, so it's unlikely to be the cause of the overheating troubles.

Edited by Durant Carlyle, 15 April 2015 - 08:45 PM.


#16 Changletonne

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Posted 15 April 2015 - 09:51 PM

Honestly, sounds like it is time to re-paste the thermal paste on the CPU and heat sync.

Start with the cheapest option first. Get a good quality thermal paste, clean em up, and reseat the heat sync and CPU. It will take 1 to 2 weeks to set in, however, i bet you will see improvements to your heat straight away. And i am wrong, you would have lost less than 20 bucks, and you will need the thermal paste if you were to upgrade those parts anyway. Just spend the money on a good thermal paste ;) trust.

#17 PianoMan

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Posted 15 April 2015 - 09:51 PM

What's the ambient temp of your room?

That Freezer is rated to dissipate more heat than what your CPU is capable of generating at stock speeds.

I would first reseat your heatsink. That would also mean giving it and your CPU a thorough cleaning, and reapplication of a good TIM.

Cheapest first few steps.

(Dammit - Changle was quicker pressing "ENTER" by a few seconds ;))

Edited by PianoMan, 15 April 2015 - 09:56 PM.


#18 Oderint dum Metuant

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Posted 15 April 2015 - 11:05 PM

Welp, the arctic freezer series are ok (as in poor ok).

That said, i would reapply paste and reseat the cooler allowing the cooler to spread the paste for you.
Whilst it may be rated to cool 200W, the ambient temperature in the US is going to be higher than where the lab tests were conducted.

I would personally if i was American and lucky enough to have access to this would buy one of these.

http://pcpartpicker....pu-cooler-h220x

Comes as an AIO liquid cooler, however you can add additional fluid yourself and add extra loops (to GPU) for a water cooling solution over time.

#19 Chaosity

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Posted 15 April 2015 - 11:38 PM

If you decide to reseat your heat sink, know this... the thinner the application the better the heat transfer. Too many people live by the adage of "if a little is good, more is better". Not true in this case. Secondly, >if< you are mechanically inclined (if not, don't try this) get some 1000 grit wet/dry, place it on a perfectly flat surface grit side up, wet it down, and polish the mating surfaces of the processor and sink. Depending on the surface irregularities this can gain you as much as a 20% improvement in heat transfer.

Edited by Chaosity, 15 April 2015 - 11:39 PM.


#20 xWiredx

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Posted 16 April 2015 - 04:59 AM

The problem with reading spec sheets saying "this cpu has tdp of X watts" and "this heatsink is rated for Y watts" is... well, that isn't the real world at all. Those are spec sheets.

Real-world testing shows that at stock speeds, that CPU can use ~140W (between 135 and 145 depending on who's testing apparently). That isn't 200W, but it definitely isn't 125W, either. That usage is based on barebone systems that aren't really generating any other heat. OP is adding a GPU that isn't exhausting most of its heat out of the case. Further, we don't know what case and fans OP is using and how clean it is.

A good first step would be to dismount, clean, re-paste, and remount his cooler. With it overheating, though, and there being supposedly a 60W delta between what his CPU is generating and his cooler can handle, it's very possible he will need to take a lot of other steps suggested in here. Again, I would go for MX-2 or MX-4 instead of AS5. I would also recommend an AIO in the long-run, especially if OP wants to build an Intel machine in the semi-near future.





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