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Mwo Is Cooking My Cpu


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#21 Sarlic

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Posted 16 April 2015 - 05:09 AM

Scythe Mugen is the best cooler around of peformance / sound...i got it on my i7 2600K

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http://www.newegg.co...M0311-_-Product

Edited by Sarlic, 16 April 2015 - 05:07 AM.


#22 Sir Wolfenx

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Posted 16 April 2015 - 05:09 AM

I turned VSync on, it forces the frame rate at 60fps. When I turned it off my fps went as high as 90-100fps. At higher fps your computer has to draw faster, and this cooks your GPU. Turn on V-sync. Also I lower quality settings on hotter periods of the day. You could get additional cooling for your computer.

I take my AC out of the windows for the winter. We don't put em in until June. So I have to do without. Canada has some warm weather lately.

#23 Grendel408

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Posted 16 April 2015 - 10:19 AM

View Postmark v92, on 15 April 2015 - 04:26 PM, said:


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Sapphire HD 7870 2gb

i guess it just blows against the card and doesnt flush


Yeah was planning on buying a new pc this summer. probably with liquid cooling. needs to stay cool while gaming and rendering. I already got the arctic freezer 13 cooler on it which seems like a big heatsink. It might not be worth it to spend more money on this thing now when im planning on buying a new setup. Was hoping to just replace the cpu, gpu and mobo.
maybe going intel now since the prices have dropped a bit. Those cpu's might be cooler since i heard amd overall is pretty hot. Just looking for the most bang for my buck and reliability since it will often be rendering day and night.

sucks im having overheating problems with mwo and i also need to know it wont shut down to overheating when im rendering since i might not be home when it does that.

Another option you can do... as ghetto as this sounds... take the side panel off your PC, lay it on it's side and place a 24inch box-fan ($20 USD!!!) on it blowing the air upward :D All the while... save money for your new PC build.

#24 mark v92

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Posted 16 April 2015 - 11:21 AM

View PostGrendel408, on 16 April 2015 - 10:19 AM, said:

Another option you can do... as ghetto as this sounds... take the side panel off your PC, lay it on it's side and place a 24inch box-fan ($20 USD!!!) on it blowing the air upward :D All the while... save money for your new PC build.


yeah, was thinking about that. i have an airconditioner pointed at it now but this weekend im in a house without one so maybe ill go super budget and buy a fan

#25 Grendel408

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Posted 16 April 2015 - 02:16 PM

Yeah dude... two things that are a killer to PCs... Dust and Heat... both equally bad. This is a pic from my old PC build before doing a handful of upgrades (CPU, PSU, GPU, mobo, etc). The side panel holds 2 120mm case fans, the front panel has 1 140mm fan, the area where the wires are bundled up has a 120mm fan now (new PSU HX1050w)... but now that my bundle of wires is gone thanks to the mostly modular PSU I have... more airflow and better cooling than before. I clean my PC out weekly... sometimes bi-weekly to ensure no dust due to my hardwood floors, and cats.

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#26 nehebkau

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Posted 17 April 2015 - 11:29 AM

View Postmark v92, on 15 April 2015 - 12:49 PM, said:

So ive got a bit of a problem here. Now that we start to have some warmer weather here im having some problems with my cpu. I have a AMD FX-8150 Eight core 3.6Ghz. In turbo mode it runs at 4.3Ghz. Thats pretty nice and all but my heatsink cant take it so when im playing mwo it heats up to 90c and shuts down. i can barely keep it at 80c with my air conditioner pointed at it and the case open. This while its about 18c outside with the window open.

I can limit the Ghz to 3.3 and it will stay at max 40c. While this is a nice temp, going from 4.3 to 3.3 Ghz is a big differents and i lose a lot of fps. Ive had this problem before and at the time i bought a new cpu cooler (Arctic Freezer 13). This lasted through the winter but its not helping anymore.

Is there a way to make it run in between the turbo core mode (4.3Ghz) and the max i can limit it (3.3Ghz)? Guessing 4.0Ghz should be enough.

Having no issue with other games atm. Only with star citizen but thats pushing my pc on a whole new level compared to mwo.

specs:
cpu: AMD FX-8150 Eight core @ 4.3Ghz, cooled by arctic freezer 13
gpu: Sapphire HD 7870 2gb
ram: 16gb
moba: Gigabyte GA-990XA-UD3, AM3+
case: dunno but 1 big fan on top, 2 fans in front, 1in the back and 1 on the bottom. (case is open atm)



You shouldn't be having that problem unless:
1. you have insufficient air movement through your case...i.e. your case fans arn't moving heat through your case. make sure front and back fans are moving air in the same direction (not both blowing air into the case.
2. your thermal compound on your CPU is not put on properly / not good quality.
3. your heat-sync is dirty
4. you have another component blowing hot air onto your cpu cooling block.

Edited by nehebkau, 17 April 2015 - 11:32 AM.


#27 mark v92

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Posted 17 April 2015 - 12:53 PM

guys thanks for al the reply's, i took my pc appart and cleaned it. wasnt much comming off of it but it helped a bit.

its still running hot often but it will do for now i think.

got a couple of monitoring programms to keep an eye on the heat.

will keep it like this while saving up for a new pc, one with liquid cooling.

#28 Pet Dude

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Posted 17 April 2015 - 01:52 PM

I use the catalyst control panel to run my over clock. You can dial it up or down. Make sure you keep the radiators and fans clear of dust for proper air flow. I noticed MWO and Star Citizen heat up my CPU. I use a Cooler Master Seidon 240 AIO cooler and FX-9370. It only heats up if I use an overclock to 4.8. Dialed it back to 4.7 and its much better without sacrificing performance. Interestingly when somebody elses use the hair dryer and I'm running in CW my CPU heats up pretty high and the breaker will occasionally trip.

#29 Bill Lumbar

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Posted 17 April 2015 - 02:26 PM

Looking through some of the replies here, there are some good tips. Case air flow is a good one, making sure you have front case fans blowing inward, side fans if any, blowing inward, and your top and back case fans blowing upward and outward. Dust is a big factor also, but from the sounds of it, your case wasn't very dirty.

I had a Phenom II 940 BE and one thing I noticed right off the bat while installing it that the top of the CPU wasn't very flat, and had some what of a rounded upward arc to it. I researched a little online and came up with some guides showing you how to "Lap" the CPU. Not sure if its something you want to explore, and the right grades of wet sand paper alone to do it will cost you around $20-$30 bucks maybe cheaper, but once I lapped my 940 B.E. I dropped around 8-10C off my 940 B.E. right after doing it. If you decide to do this, you will need to do it right, and make sure you follow all the steps to ensure you get a flat, mirror smooth finish on the top of your 8150. It might help you to do so, your temps seem really high though.

#30 mark v92

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Posted 18 April 2015 - 08:37 AM

This is my current setup.

i also found out one of my 2 front fans arent working anymore.

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#31 darqsyde

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Posted 18 April 2015 - 09:09 AM

Well, with dead front fans, that would explain the overheating.

However, I can see a couple of issues with your build.

1. CPU heatsink is drawing hot air off the back of the graphics card. This is Bad. If possible re position the heatsink so that it is drawing air from the front of the case. (I realize this might not be possible due to AM3 mounting system.)

2. Remove the unused drive trays. They may be blocking airflow from the front, which of course is bad.

Edited by darqsyde, 18 April 2015 - 09:10 AM.


#32 PianoMan

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Posted 18 April 2015 - 11:46 AM

^^^

Hopefully you can rotate the freezer 90deg CCW.

If you're running stock speeds, optimize the airflow in that case, and reapply TIM - there should be no reason to be overheating...

#33 Bill Lumbar

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Posted 18 April 2015 - 12:06 PM

Looking at your setup in your case, for sure you want to remount the Cpu cooler to blow out the back of the case and draw from the front of the case, if you are able to with the mount brackets. You are not only pulling "hot" air from the GPU, you are pulling hot air from the North bridge chip set if I am not mistaken. While I have ran my Zalman X5 in the same manner you are, pushing air out the top of a Antec case, with a 940 BE, and a Intel Q9550 O.C @3.8 ghz, its really not a Ideal setup for sure unless you have extremely good positive airflow in the case.

Removing any drive bay cages you are not using will help with the air flow in your case to remain positive pressure. I have found that some of my fans that stop working simply need the little round sticker pulled off the center of the fan, and then remove the rubber cap piece and put some 3 in 1 oil in the hole where the bearing is. Spin it around, and only fill it up till it doesn't leak out, and let it sit for a bit, then continue to spin it around and if the oil level goes down, add a little more, then put the cap and sticker back on after cleaning up any oil you split onto the center of the fan before putting the sticker back on.

Some fans are really prone to lock up on you, and need this done often, once a month.... maybe more. Make sure all your fans are always working, all the time, and I assume you know the right way to face them, air flow on the fans goes to the back of the case. Make these changes, and your should not be seeing temps that shut your rig down.

Edit: I just noticed you are running a Antec Earthwatts PSU, not that this would mess with your temps, but I have had very bad experiences with unstable "Earthwatts" series PSU's. I would not use them in my builds if buying new for sure. Its been a couple of years since I researched the problems some of these series of PSU's had, but they are pretty well known if you look around.

Edited by Bill Lumbar, 18 April 2015 - 12:14 PM.


#34 Wyzak

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Posted 18 April 2015 - 12:21 PM

I had an FX-8150 and it never really got that hot. It went to 67 C multiple times while playing Far Cry 4. Here are my suggestions:

The Freezer 13 is ok, but you may need to re-apply your thermal paste more consistently in a thin layer that covers a cloverleaf pattern from the center of the cpu. (Cloverleaf with the petals over the cores - but don't neglect the center)

However, as ambient temperatures increase, I think you will want a liquid cooled solution with an external radiator.

What I have on my FX-9590 now is a Corsair H110 pump with dual 240mm radiators and it keeps the idle temp around 12 C (or so the computer claims - ambient temp is warmer than that.) There are also good all-in-one solutions from NZXT and others. Make sure you get a liquid cooler rated for 220W TDP. Again, make sure your thermal paste has a very thin layer between your heatsink plate and your CPU. I inspected the 8150 when I upgraded and found the thermal compound had migrated to the bottom of the cpu and so the exposure was a little lopsided. Still got good temps, but I'm more confident with this new application.

I use Antec Formula 6 nanodiamond paste for thermal compound. They have a Formula 7, but it's only a very tiny improvement in thermal conductivity.

PS. Move your graphics card down to the PCI slot closest the power supply so the heat dissipates before it gets sucked into the CPU fan

PPS install the Arctic Freezer with the fan up and leave the top of the case off

Also, try removing some RAM for testing purposes and see if that helps (it might be minimal)

Leave the case open (it's not that bad of an idea if the ambient temperature of your room is adequate, as long as each fan is pointed in the correct direction)

Finally, if you do end up liquid cooling, remember that doing so would give you the freedom to dump your CPU heat almost anywhere your liquid cooling hoses can reach.

Edited by Wyzak, 18 April 2015 - 12:32 PM.


#35 Tarl Cabot

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Posted 18 April 2015 - 06:58 PM

Is the CPU fan pulling air in and over the heatsink or pulling air through it? Rotating it 90 degrees counter clockwise will result in it pulling the heated air from the system ram.

With that fan, the cpu fan should be pulling air through it, with the system fan at the top pushing air in.

That heatsink below the CPU and above the GPU is for one of the motherboard's chipsets, (edited) and if the fan is pulling air in, then it is pulling the heat from that chipset heatsink and any heat from from the GPU.

View Postmark v92, on 18 April 2015 - 08:37 AM, said:

This is my current setup.

i also found out one of my 2 front fans arent working anymore.

Posted Image

Edited by Tarl Cabot, 18 April 2015 - 11:08 PM.


#36 Bill Lumbar

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Posted 20 April 2015 - 01:19 AM

While that might be the case with pulling air from the ram somewhat, That is the best way to do it if his front fans are working right, and the case has good positive air flow moving from front to back and out the back of the case. Any heat that the ram produces will be very small vs. the North bridge chipset and the graphics card. The Gpu and North bridge are two of the highest heat producing components in a computer, and with his current setup he's blowing all that heat from the two right onto and thru his CPU cooler.

Edited by Bill Lumbar, 20 April 2015 - 01:23 AM.


#37 NUJRSYDEVIL

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Posted 20 April 2015 - 08:22 AM

I run MWO on a non-gaming laptop that probably should NOT be playing games. It gets quite hot, but I ghetto rigged it with a fan blowing into the vent to keep cool air coming and going.

This has worked for over two years, and I promise you my laptop is worse than any desktop you're using. Don't spend the $$$.

#38 Goose

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Posted 20 April 2015 - 10:01 AM

wat

#39 Lord Letto

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Posted 20 April 2015 - 10:16 AM

View PostGoose, on 20 April 2015 - 10:01 AM, said:

wat


#40 Oderint dum Metuant

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Posted 20 April 2015 - 11:46 AM

View PostNUJRSYDEVIL, on 20 April 2015 - 08:22 AM, said:

I run MWO on a non-gaming laptop that probably should NOT be playing games. It gets quite hot, but I ghetto rigged it with a fan blowing into the vent to keep cool air coming and going.

This has worked for over two years, and I promise you my laptop is worse than any desktop you're using. Don't spend the $$$.


The biggest favor you did your laptop was raising it so the underside CPU fan intake wasn't obstructed.

that's it.





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