Hey all, I am looking to shell out some cash for a new PC. I have around $2,000 that I can spend and would like to keep things simple by buying from newegg only. I am starting from scratch so I would need everything, all the guts, monitor, keyboard, mouse, OS everything. So with those parameters, is there anyone out there who likes to think about what a good gaming computer should look like and is willing to share that with me? I really don't use the computer for much else other than gaming.
I have a friend who will help me build it but I would like to have a second opinion from this great community about what to buy. Thank you in advance.
2
Theory Crafting A New Pc
Started by Pat Kell, Nov 29 2015 08:47 PM
21 replies to this topic
#2
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- Elite Founder
- 1,805 posts
Member
Posted 29 November 2015 - 10:17 PM
Lots of parts on Newegg are currently out of stock. It would be much easier and probably a little cheaper to not isolate yourself to them.
Having said that...
An i5 6600K, decent Z170 motherboard, 16GB of DDR4-3200 (preferably 4x4GB instead of 2x8GB), 250GB SSD, GTX 970, decent case, and 80+ platinum Seasonic PSU (660-760W) and a copy of Windows will probably run somewhere around 1200-1500. That would leave you at least 500 to grab a decent monitor, keyboard, and mouse. Considering my Razer Deathadder and Black Widow Chrome cost a combined $230 or so, going high-end on the peripherals still allots you enough for a 21"-27" 1080p monitor.
Having said that...
An i5 6600K, decent Z170 motherboard, 16GB of DDR4-3200 (preferably 4x4GB instead of 2x8GB), 250GB SSD, GTX 970, decent case, and 80+ platinum Seasonic PSU (660-760W) and a copy of Windows will probably run somewhere around 1200-1500. That would leave you at least 500 to grab a decent monitor, keyboard, and mouse. Considering my Razer Deathadder and Black Widow Chrome cost a combined $230 or so, going high-end on the peripherals still allots you enough for a 21"-27" 1080p monitor.
#3
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- The Hammer
- 56 posts
Member
- LocationUSA
Posted 29 November 2015 - 10:48 PM
I've worked with a lot of hardware manufacturers in my profession and also dealing with those manufacturer RMA processes. I'm not an expert, but I feel that I have experience under my belt to form a somewhat well educated thought process of what would cause less headache down the road. Quick background, I'm married, work full time, and own a house. I've got more important things on my mind than fixing my computer that I count on to be there for me when I have a rough day, I don't need it acting up on me when I may need it most.
If possible go with a Xeon processor with ECC memory support (1620V3 or 1650V3) gaming performance is not going to suffer. Those Xeon CPUs work with desktop motherboards and you wouldn't need a server board for it. Otherwise that 6700K is a pretty sweet CPU at 4GHz stock.
A faster memory frequency above standard frequency doesn't mean a whole lot of extra frame rates. Stick to 2133MHz if going with Skylake or Haswell-E. It also means manufacturers aren't tweaking the JDEC to make a thing work or binning good memory chips to make them run faster and tighter. But hey, memory typically has a lifetime warranty (until it becomes EOL and then all they can do is 'repair' it)
Don't skimp on the motherboard and PSU... it's the heart and body of your machine. For PSU gold efficiency is common now and your wallet and electricity bill will thank you. Get a fully modular PSU, if it ever fails swapping out a brick is so much easier than rewiring a system.
Mobo, look for some extra RMA perks like xship or advance rma. Example, ASUS provides xship for many of their deluxe, rog, and tuf series motherboards within the first year of ownership. Doesn't seem like much but less down time when your sweet new rig has gone down 30 days after buying from an online e-tailer is a sigh of relief. If not, many manufacturers can still process an expedited RMA with that good ol' plastic card.
All in one coolers... they are good at what they are intended to do. But if you can go with a nice air cooler. That way you don't have to worry about the pump failing, a grindy pump, not enough fluid in the closed loop, or heaven forbid a leak. All these things are not very likely but they are still failure points to consider. For an air cooler don't go overkill, I know that Noctua D15 is pretty sweet, but it's huge, weighty, and stresses the socket over time unless supported or you use a case where gravity doesn't have it's dirty way with it.
I hope I don't invoke the red vs green war... but nVidia puts out stable drivers and I've seen more red cards fail in the field than green cards. I've also personally owned both flavors of koolaid for extended periods of time. Just wanted to put that out there. Also, try to steer around gimmicky names and OC nonsense... it's a bunch of jargon that means it could break easier.
Sound cards are pretty much niche. If you plan on doing audio recording get a nice sound card, for just gaming onboard is a-okay.
Cases... oh boy. Some are cool, but I dislike plastic, thin metal, and nonsense. This one is all on you 'cause you'll be looking at the thing every time you push that power button to roar your siege engine to life.
For keyboard, get something backlit with whatever favorite switches you like. Those lit up keys do help. As for a mouse I like wired with a 'thumb rest' and dpi switching. Others like wireless, some like a load of buttons to rival their keyboard, and some like to adjust the weight of their mouse.
Monitors... oh man what a can of worms. Rule of thumb, the higher the resolution and refresh rate the more GPU horsepower you'll need. I run an IPS 1080 24 inch monitor and love it. But everyone is different, I would suggest if it is available to you to find a store where you can view some of these features side by side and decide on your own what you like and don't.
If you need an optical drive I've noticed many of the bluray drives are quieter when in use than the DVD ones from the same manufacturer, chances are you'll use the optical to install windows and then leave it alone with a gaming machine. I even think Win10 ships out copies on a flash drive.
SSDs are the stuff make sure to get one for the boot drive/game drive. For gaming M.2 and NVMe drives are overkill. for storage like music, pictures, and stuff go with a slower spinning driver. No point to have a 7200rpm drive for accessing media data.
RAID 0 arrays are pretty cool for what they can do, but mean when they stop doing what they do you start over, my personal preference is no RAID and a larger primary drive. (A system back up or restore is a good work around)
People like Win10 apparently, go with home unless you can benefit from the extra features of pro.
Below are some of my trusted and go to manufacturers.
EVGA, great products and an even better customer service team. They usually don't advance or xship RMA items but have a good turn around time and have a high tendency to replace with a different unit. Their GPUs and PSUs are a thumbs up.
XFX for radeon cards. Sapphire in second. XFX has the top reliability for radeon cards. The 300 series is holding strong in terms of reliability since launch.
ASUS, they have that nifty APS program for mobos and also do expedited RMAs with monitors. I also like Gigabyte and ASRock motherboards.
Noctua, Be Quiet, and an upcoming player Cryorig make some good air coolers.
G.Skill and Corsair make good RAM my top two with Crucial being a third.
Samsung and Intel make good SSDs, I like Samsung more.
Western Digital Red drives for storage. They're binned green drives.
I've been a long time Logitech peripheral fan. People go nuts over Razer stuff I hear.
Cases. Bleh. I dunno, go Corsair, all the cool kids are doing it.
If you feel I did not answer your question or request I can understand. I get wordy and might have missed the mark. If you want a check this rig out reply post up what games other than MW:O you'll be playing and at what resolution and refresh rate. Also how long you intend to use the system before upgrading again, that $2K can go far and I'm sure you'll put it to good use.
If possible go with a Xeon processor with ECC memory support (1620V3 or 1650V3) gaming performance is not going to suffer. Those Xeon CPUs work with desktop motherboards and you wouldn't need a server board for it. Otherwise that 6700K is a pretty sweet CPU at 4GHz stock.
A faster memory frequency above standard frequency doesn't mean a whole lot of extra frame rates. Stick to 2133MHz if going with Skylake or Haswell-E. It also means manufacturers aren't tweaking the JDEC to make a thing work or binning good memory chips to make them run faster and tighter. But hey, memory typically has a lifetime warranty (until it becomes EOL and then all they can do is 'repair' it)
Don't skimp on the motherboard and PSU... it's the heart and body of your machine. For PSU gold efficiency is common now and your wallet and electricity bill will thank you. Get a fully modular PSU, if it ever fails swapping out a brick is so much easier than rewiring a system.
Mobo, look for some extra RMA perks like xship or advance rma. Example, ASUS provides xship for many of their deluxe, rog, and tuf series motherboards within the first year of ownership. Doesn't seem like much but less down time when your sweet new rig has gone down 30 days after buying from an online e-tailer is a sigh of relief. If not, many manufacturers can still process an expedited RMA with that good ol' plastic card.
All in one coolers... they are good at what they are intended to do. But if you can go with a nice air cooler. That way you don't have to worry about the pump failing, a grindy pump, not enough fluid in the closed loop, or heaven forbid a leak. All these things are not very likely but they are still failure points to consider. For an air cooler don't go overkill, I know that Noctua D15 is pretty sweet, but it's huge, weighty, and stresses the socket over time unless supported or you use a case where gravity doesn't have it's dirty way with it.
I hope I don't invoke the red vs green war... but nVidia puts out stable drivers and I've seen more red cards fail in the field than green cards. I've also personally owned both flavors of koolaid for extended periods of time. Just wanted to put that out there. Also, try to steer around gimmicky names and OC nonsense... it's a bunch of jargon that means it could break easier.
Sound cards are pretty much niche. If you plan on doing audio recording get a nice sound card, for just gaming onboard is a-okay.
Cases... oh boy. Some are cool, but I dislike plastic, thin metal, and nonsense. This one is all on you 'cause you'll be looking at the thing every time you push that power button to roar your siege engine to life.
For keyboard, get something backlit with whatever favorite switches you like. Those lit up keys do help. As for a mouse I like wired with a 'thumb rest' and dpi switching. Others like wireless, some like a load of buttons to rival their keyboard, and some like to adjust the weight of their mouse.
Monitors... oh man what a can of worms. Rule of thumb, the higher the resolution and refresh rate the more GPU horsepower you'll need. I run an IPS 1080 24 inch monitor and love it. But everyone is different, I would suggest if it is available to you to find a store where you can view some of these features side by side and decide on your own what you like and don't.
If you need an optical drive I've noticed many of the bluray drives are quieter when in use than the DVD ones from the same manufacturer, chances are you'll use the optical to install windows and then leave it alone with a gaming machine. I even think Win10 ships out copies on a flash drive.
SSDs are the stuff make sure to get one for the boot drive/game drive. For gaming M.2 and NVMe drives are overkill. for storage like music, pictures, and stuff go with a slower spinning driver. No point to have a 7200rpm drive for accessing media data.
RAID 0 arrays are pretty cool for what they can do, but mean when they stop doing what they do you start over, my personal preference is no RAID and a larger primary drive. (A system back up or restore is a good work around)
People like Win10 apparently, go with home unless you can benefit from the extra features of pro.
Below are some of my trusted and go to manufacturers.
EVGA, great products and an even better customer service team. They usually don't advance or xship RMA items but have a good turn around time and have a high tendency to replace with a different unit. Their GPUs and PSUs are a thumbs up.
XFX for radeon cards. Sapphire in second. XFX has the top reliability for radeon cards. The 300 series is holding strong in terms of reliability since launch.
ASUS, they have that nifty APS program for mobos and also do expedited RMAs with monitors. I also like Gigabyte and ASRock motherboards.
Noctua, Be Quiet, and an upcoming player Cryorig make some good air coolers.
G.Skill and Corsair make good RAM my top two with Crucial being a third.
Samsung and Intel make good SSDs, I like Samsung more.
Western Digital Red drives for storage. They're binned green drives.
I've been a long time Logitech peripheral fan. People go nuts over Razer stuff I hear.
Cases. Bleh. I dunno, go Corsair, all the cool kids are doing it.
If you feel I did not answer your question or request I can understand. I get wordy and might have missed the mark. If you want a check this rig out reply post up what games other than MW:O you'll be playing and at what resolution and refresh rate. Also how long you intend to use the system before upgrading again, that $2K can go far and I'm sure you'll put it to good use.
#4
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- The God of Death
- 149 posts
Member
- LocationBerlin
Posted 29 November 2015 - 10:50 PM
I would always use an i7 instead of an i5 for gaming.
I just ordered parts for a new computer.(black friday deals
)
Heres my list:
CPU: i7 5820k (because its a hexacore, and performs better than the newer 6700K platform)
Mainboard: asrock X99 extreme4
Ram: (any 16GB DDR4 will do - I prefer it with coolers) Crucual ballistix sport ddr4-2400
HDD: Samsung 500gb SSD 850 EVO M.2
I will use my current AMD 280X until I switch on the current grafic card generation
I just ordered parts for a new computer.(black friday deals
)Heres my list:
CPU: i7 5820k (because its a hexacore, and performs better than the newer 6700K platform)
Mainboard: asrock X99 extreme4
Ram: (any 16GB DDR4 will do - I prefer it with coolers) Crucual ballistix sport ddr4-2400
HDD: Samsung 500gb SSD 850 EVO M.2
I will use my current AMD 280X until I switch on the current grafic card generation
#5
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- The 1 Percent
- 1,187 posts
Member
- LocationSol, NA, Iowa
Posted 29 November 2015 - 11:06 PM
Wow, it is amazing how little I know about computers. Thank you all for the responses and I will start doing some research on this stuff. My main concern is buying some stuff that isn't compatible so maybe I will check this stuff out, make a detailed list of what I plan to get and see if anyone sees any issues with compatibility or space etc. Thanks again for the help all.
Is there a reason to go I5 vs I7?
Is there a reason to go I5 vs I7?
Edited by Pat Kell, 29 November 2015 - 11:10 PM.
#6
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- The Hammer
- 56 posts
Member
- LocationUSA
Posted 29 November 2015 - 11:24 PM
i5 cpu's tend to not have hyperthreading so no extra virtual threads. Not huge in the grand scheme of things, good for keeping cost down. i7, on the haswell-e side of things have more cores and more memory slots on boards. i7 on skylake are like the i5s but with hyperthreading enabled.
#7
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- Elite Founder
- 1,805 posts
Member
Posted 29 November 2015 - 11:41 PM
For gaming, the i7 does not yield enough of a performance advantage to spend the extra money. If anybody tells you differently, they haven't paid enough attention to the actual data review sites publish.
From this TK guy's massive wall of text... Don't go Xeon. There's really no reason to. Right now, the Skylake i5 6600K is the new gaming champ.
ASUS motherboards all the way. I went with a Gigabyte for my X99 build and regret it still. Gigabyte is considered by many to be "second place" and... well, let's just say second place is still a good distance away from first. Any Z170 board with 4 RAM slots made by ASUS will suffice.
Going with a Skylake chip, there's no reason to stick with DDR3. Go DDR4, go quad-channel (4 sticks), and don't look back. This means no 2133MhZ RAM. Go with 3000MhZ RAM instead. Or higher, of course.
Seasonic makes excellent PSUs. They are also an OEM for other PSU brands, so find anything made by Seasonic, semi-modular preferred, and you're good to go.
If you want an SSD that is slightly faster than the rest, go Samsung. Since at this point that extra bit of speed doesn't matter much (if at all), go Intel. Intel's pro-series SSDs are enterprise-class monsters that don't flinch during endurance tests and consistently outlast Samsung drives (or really any other SSD for that matter).
Don't bother with WD Red drives. There's about 0 reasons to get one for a regular PC. If you need an extra storage drive, a regular Blue or Black WD drive will do fine. If you can get a Red in the same size for the same price then definitely get it, but no need to spend extra on one.
I like Corsair and Cooler Master cases. You don't need redonkulous super high airflow (read that: loud, usually how Noctuas are) fans as long as you set up your air flow right. Getting a cheap AIO will give you good overclocking headroom, but if you want to OC hard then go with a high-end 240mm rad one.
From this TK guy's massive wall of text... Don't go Xeon. There's really no reason to. Right now, the Skylake i5 6600K is the new gaming champ.
ASUS motherboards all the way. I went with a Gigabyte for my X99 build and regret it still. Gigabyte is considered by many to be "second place" and... well, let's just say second place is still a good distance away from first. Any Z170 board with 4 RAM slots made by ASUS will suffice.
Going with a Skylake chip, there's no reason to stick with DDR3. Go DDR4, go quad-channel (4 sticks), and don't look back. This means no 2133MhZ RAM. Go with 3000MhZ RAM instead. Or higher, of course.
Seasonic makes excellent PSUs. They are also an OEM for other PSU brands, so find anything made by Seasonic, semi-modular preferred, and you're good to go.
If you want an SSD that is slightly faster than the rest, go Samsung. Since at this point that extra bit of speed doesn't matter much (if at all), go Intel. Intel's pro-series SSDs are enterprise-class monsters that don't flinch during endurance tests and consistently outlast Samsung drives (or really any other SSD for that matter).
Don't bother with WD Red drives. There's about 0 reasons to get one for a regular PC. If you need an extra storage drive, a regular Blue or Black WD drive will do fine. If you can get a Red in the same size for the same price then definitely get it, but no need to spend extra on one.
I like Corsair and Cooler Master cases. You don't need redonkulous super high airflow (read that: loud, usually how Noctuas are) fans as long as you set up your air flow right. Getting a cheap AIO will give you good overclocking headroom, but if you want to OC hard then go with a high-end 240mm rad one.
#8
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- Ace Of Spades
- 4,758 posts
Member
- LocationUnited Kingdom
Posted 29 November 2015 - 11:53 PM
xWiredx, on 29 November 2015 - 11:41 PM, said:
For gaming, the i7 does not yield enough of a performance advantage to spend the extra money. If anybody tells you differently, they haven't paid enough attention to the actual data review sites publish.
From this TK guy's massive wall of text... Don't go Xeon. There's really no reason to. Right now, the Skylake i5 6600K is the new gaming champ.
ASUS motherboards all the way. I went with a Gigabyte for my X99 build and regret it still. Gigabyte is considered by many to be "second place" and... well, let's just say second place is still a good distance away from first. Any Z170 board with 4 RAM slots made by ASUS will suffice.
Going with a Skylake chip, there's no reason to stick with DDR3. Go DDR4, go quad-channel (4 sticks), and don't look back. This means no 2133MhZ RAM. Go with 3000MhZ RAM instead. Or higher, of course.
Seasonic makes excellent PSUs. They are also an OEM for other PSU brands, so find anything made by Seasonic, semi-modular preferred, and you're good to go.
If you want an SSD that is slightly faster than the rest, go Samsung. Since at this point that extra bit of speed doesn't matter much (if at all), go Intel. Intel's pro-series SSDs are enterprise-class monsters that don't flinch during endurance tests and consistently outlast Samsung drives (or really any other SSD for that matter).
Don't bother with WD Red drives. There's about 0 reasons to get one for a regular PC. If you need an extra storage drive, a regular Blue or Black WD drive will do fine. If you can get a Red in the same size for the same price then definitely get it, but no need to spend extra on one.
I like Corsair and Cooler Master cases. You don't need redonkulous super high airflow (read that: loud, usually how Noctuas are) fans as long as you set up your air flow right. Getting a cheap AIO will give you good overclocking headroom, but if you want to OC hard then go with a high-end 240mm rad one.
From this TK guy's massive wall of text... Don't go Xeon. There's really no reason to. Right now, the Skylake i5 6600K is the new gaming champ.
ASUS motherboards all the way. I went with a Gigabyte for my X99 build and regret it still. Gigabyte is considered by many to be "second place" and... well, let's just say second place is still a good distance away from first. Any Z170 board with 4 RAM slots made by ASUS will suffice.
Going with a Skylake chip, there's no reason to stick with DDR3. Go DDR4, go quad-channel (4 sticks), and don't look back. This means no 2133MhZ RAM. Go with 3000MhZ RAM instead. Or higher, of course.
Seasonic makes excellent PSUs. They are also an OEM for other PSU brands, so find anything made by Seasonic, semi-modular preferred, and you're good to go.
If you want an SSD that is slightly faster than the rest, go Samsung. Since at this point that extra bit of speed doesn't matter much (if at all), go Intel. Intel's pro-series SSDs are enterprise-class monsters that don't flinch during endurance tests and consistently outlast Samsung drives (or really any other SSD for that matter).
Don't bother with WD Red drives. There's about 0 reasons to get one for a regular PC. If you need an extra storage drive, a regular Blue or Black WD drive will do fine. If you can get a Red in the same size for the same price then definitely get it, but no need to spend extra on one.
I like Corsair and Cooler Master cases. You don't need redonkulous super high airflow (read that: loud, usually how Noctuas are) fans as long as you set up your air flow right. Getting a cheap AIO will give you good overclocking headroom, but if you want to OC hard then go with a high-end 240mm rad one.
What he says
#9
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- The Hammer
- 56 posts
Member
- LocationUSA
Posted 30 November 2015 - 12:31 AM
Touche xWiredx in regards to the wall of text. I'll admit that when I hit that Post button I said 'Woops... should have cut out some of that text.' I'm geared towards quiet and stability and I'm wondering if my preferences are not geared towards bang for the buck or maybe even what makes sense for a majority of gamers. Pat Kell, xWiredx has good points. I think that last post is going somewhere good for making the most use out of your cash.
#10
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- Ace Of Spades
- 4,758 posts
Member
- LocationUnited Kingdom
Posted 30 November 2015 - 01:09 AM
I hate big budget builds because they are just too flexible.
As an example
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($254.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U9S 46.4 CFM CPU Cooler ($59.55 @ OutletPC)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($4.63 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-P ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($109.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 series 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($77.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB WINDFORCE 3X Video Card ($599.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Thermaltake Overseer RX-I ATX Full Tower Case ($67.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($94.99 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSC0 DVD/CD Writer ($11.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 OEM (64-bit) ($80.89 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus PB278Q 60Hz 27.0" Monitor ($399.99 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Logitech G710 Wired Gaming Keyboard ($49.99 @ Best Buy)
Mouse: Logitech G600 MMO Gaming Mouse Wired Laser Mouse ($39.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $2002.94
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-30 04:07 EST-0500
As an example
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($254.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U9S 46.4 CFM CPU Cooler ($59.55 @ OutletPC)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($4.63 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-P ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($109.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 series 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($77.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB WINDFORCE 3X Video Card ($599.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Thermaltake Overseer RX-I ATX Full Tower Case ($67.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($94.99 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSC0 DVD/CD Writer ($11.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 OEM (64-bit) ($80.89 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus PB278Q 60Hz 27.0" Monitor ($399.99 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Logitech G710 Wired Gaming Keyboard ($49.99 @ Best Buy)
Mouse: Logitech G600 MMO Gaming Mouse Wired Laser Mouse ($39.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $2002.94
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-30 04:07 EST-0500
#11
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- Civil Servant
- 3,463 posts
Member
- Twitch: Link
- LocationThat flattop, up the well, overhead
Posted 30 November 2015 - 02:59 PM
…
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core OEM/Tray Processor ($209.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright TS-140 73.6 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.00 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Asus Z87-Plus ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($79.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($37.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: OCZ Trion 100 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($54.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($72.25 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($289.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($289.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case ($45.90 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Antec TruePower Classic 750W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHDS118-04 DVD/CD Drive ($11.90 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($84.98 @ OutletPC)
Sound Card: Creative Labs Sound Blaster Audigy Rx 24-bit 192 KHz Sound Card ($39.99 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($243.99 @ Best Buy)
Monitor: Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($243.99 @ Best Buy)
Monitor: Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($243.99 @ Best Buy)
Keyboard: Thermaltake CHALLENGER PRIME Wired Gaming Keyboard ($23.80 @ SuperBiiz)
Mouse: Mad Catz Titanfall R.A.T.3 Wired Optical Mouse ($29.99 @ Amazon)
Headphones: Rude Gamewear RUDE-100 7.1 Channel Headset ($24.88 @ Amazon)
Total: $2132.59
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-30 17:55 EST-0500
Base Total: $2300.80
Promo Discounts: -$93.10
Mail-in Rebates: -$85.00
Shipping: $9.89
Total: $2132.59
Everything south of teh PSU is mystery meat: Monitors are way too much fun to look up, as are "gaming keyboards & mice." Are the 'phones up to the sound card? Who knows …
But about $600 for three screens, driven by SLI, seem like fun.
44.3A out'a 62 on the 12V rail
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core OEM/Tray Processor ($209.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright TS-140 73.6 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.00 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Asus Z87-Plus ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($79.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($37.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: OCZ Trion 100 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($54.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($72.25 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($289.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($289.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case ($45.90 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Antec TruePower Classic 750W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHDS118-04 DVD/CD Drive ($11.90 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($84.98 @ OutletPC)
Sound Card: Creative Labs Sound Blaster Audigy Rx 24-bit 192 KHz Sound Card ($39.99 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($243.99 @ Best Buy)
Monitor: Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($243.99 @ Best Buy)
Monitor: Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($243.99 @ Best Buy)
Keyboard: Thermaltake CHALLENGER PRIME Wired Gaming Keyboard ($23.80 @ SuperBiiz)
Mouse: Mad Catz Titanfall R.A.T.3 Wired Optical Mouse ($29.99 @ Amazon)
Headphones: Rude Gamewear RUDE-100 7.1 Channel Headset ($24.88 @ Amazon)
Total: $2132.59
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-30 17:55 EST-0500
Base Total: $2300.80
Promo Discounts: -$93.10
Mail-in Rebates: -$85.00
Shipping: $9.89
Total: $2132.59
Everything south of teh PSU is mystery meat: Monitors are way too much fun to look up, as are "gaming keyboards & mice." Are the 'phones up to the sound card? Who knows …
But about $600 for three screens, driven by SLI, seem like fun.
44.3A out'a 62 on the 12V rail
#12
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- Overlord
- 476 posts
Member
Posted 30 November 2015 - 03:28 PM
^^
I see no point in buying that Audigy soundcard...these days its not better than the better ( highend )motherboard
board sound cards.
Or the craptastic 25$ headphones.
If you enjoy decent sound Buy the Soundblaster Zx(® if really an audio snob, so you can change opamps if needed) and buy something like Audiotechnia M50X headphones.....best money I ever spend on audio gear in those headphones ( around 110$ ).
Other than that :
Core i5 6600K
8 or 16 GB or RAM
200+GB SSD
1 TB of HD storage.
Quality ASUS or MSI solid capacitor motherboard. ( ROG mobo are overpriced imho )
Decent aircooler
GOOD PSU. <---- Do not skimp on the PSU....you wouldnt put 87 octane gas in your car would you ?(sorry yer from USA )
But seriously PSU is what keeps your PC alive, its rating will degrade over time so buy quality with enough power to spare so it doesnt have to work near max rating all the time. Seasonic makes some of the best PSU's.
Buy an Mdisc writeable drive...never have a burned disc fail on you again.
I see no point in buying that Audigy soundcard...these days its not better than the better ( highend )motherboard
board sound cards.
Or the craptastic 25$ headphones.
If you enjoy decent sound Buy the Soundblaster Zx(® if really an audio snob, so you can change opamps if needed) and buy something like Audiotechnia M50X headphones.....best money I ever spend on audio gear in those headphones ( around 110$ ).
Other than that :
Core i5 6600K
8 or 16 GB or RAM
200+GB SSD
1 TB of HD storage.
Quality ASUS or MSI solid capacitor motherboard. ( ROG mobo are overpriced imho )
Decent aircooler
GOOD PSU. <---- Do not skimp on the PSU....
)But seriously PSU is what keeps your PC alive, its rating will degrade over time so buy quality with enough power to spare so it doesnt have to work near max rating all the time. Seasonic makes some of the best PSU's.
Buy an Mdisc writeable drive...never have a burned disc fail on you again.
#13
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- 512 posts
Member
- Facebook: Link
- LocationSingapore
Posted 30 November 2015 - 06:34 PM
here is my take on the 2K+ gaming rig
i5 6600K is pretty much the new 4690K from the Skylake series
and using the 980Ti,
1440P is where this GPU at so you can crank up to 1440P Very High to Ultra
While the Air cooler is always at a bargin
it still gives low end AIO a run for their money
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($254.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Avexir Core Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($77.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card ($604.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Cooler Master HAF 932 Advanced ATX Full Tower Case ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Cooler Master V850 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($129.99 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSC0B DVD/CD Writer ($11.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM (64-bit) ($124.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Monitor: Asus PB278Q 60Hz 27.0" Monitor ($399.99 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Cooler Master CM Storm Devastator Gaming Bundle Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Headphones: Kingston HyperX Cloud II 7.1 Channel Headset ($88.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $2063.86
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-30 21:31 EST-0500
i5 6600K is pretty much the new 4690K from the Skylake series
and using the 980Ti,
1440P is where this GPU at so you can crank up to 1440P Very High to Ultra
While the Air cooler is always at a bargin
it still gives low end AIO a run for their money
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($254.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Avexir Core Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($77.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card ($604.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Cooler Master HAF 932 Advanced ATX Full Tower Case ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Cooler Master V850 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($129.99 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSC0B DVD/CD Writer ($11.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM (64-bit) ($124.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Monitor: Asus PB278Q 60Hz 27.0" Monitor ($399.99 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Cooler Master CM Storm Devastator Gaming Bundle Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Headphones: Kingston HyperX Cloud II 7.1 Channel Headset ($88.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $2063.86
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-30 21:31 EST-0500
#14
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- Elite Founder
- 1,805 posts
Member
Posted 30 November 2015 - 09:49 PM
Dragoon20005, on 30 November 2015 - 06:34 PM, said:
snip
Couple of tweaks:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($254.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H105 73.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($94.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 series 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Intel Pro 2500 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($63.75 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card ($604.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Cooler Master HAF 932 Advanced ATX Full Tower Case ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($108.74 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-118CB/BEBE DVD/CD Drive ($15.30 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM (64-bit) ($124.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Monitor: Asus VS278Q-P 27.0" Monitor ($199.99 @ Micro Center)
Keyboard: Corsair K70 RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Mouse: Razer DeathAdder Chroma Wired Optical Mouse ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1992.68
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-01 00:48 EST-0500
#15
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- 512 posts
Member
- Facebook: Link
- LocationSingapore
Posted 30 November 2015 - 10:08 PM
xWiredx, on 30 November 2015 - 09:49 PM, said:
Couple of tweaks:
things to note thou
Quad channel RAM will only work with X99 platforms
The Z170 only supports up to dual channel max
I noticed that Win 10 along with all the updates and a few game take up 120GB very quickly
so that why i went with 250Gb at least
I can fault the PSU choice but when you consider SLI 980Ti and OC
750 Watts is too close for my comfort
that monitor you chose is only 1080P
and 27 inch makes the pixels density very poor
#16
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- The 1 Percent
- 1,187 posts
Member
- LocationSol, NA, Iowa
Posted 30 November 2015 - 11:01 PM
Thanks all for the responses. Will need to think on this and post what I end up deciding to buy, that way if something obvious stands out, you good folks can keep me from making a hair-brained purchase.
#17
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- 512 posts
Member
- Facebook: Link
- LocationSingapore
Posted 30 November 2015 - 11:31 PM
Pat Kell, on 30 November 2015 - 11:01 PM, said:
Thanks all for the responses. Will need to think on this and post what I end up deciding to buy, that way if something obvious stands out, you good folks can keep me from making a hair-brained purchase.
have a look around your local computer shop and websites that you visit
get an estimate of the price you will be paying
then look up online and see if you can get it cheaper with free shipping.
while it is easier to get all the parts from one store
you will be surprised how much you can save if you go for the cheapest priced part from different store.
Edited by Dragoon20005, 30 November 2015 - 11:31 PM.
#18
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- Elite Founder
- 1,805 posts
Member
Posted 01 December 2015 - 11:44 AM
Dragoon20005, on 30 November 2015 - 10:08 PM, said:
things to note thou
Quad channel RAM will only work with X99 platforms
The Z170 only supports up to dual channel max
I noticed that Win 10 along with all the updates and a few game take up 120GB very quickly
so that why i went with 250Gb at least
I can fault the PSU choice but when you consider SLI 980Ti and OC
750 Watts is too close for my comfort
that monitor you chose is only 1080P
and 27 inch makes the pixels density very poor
Could probably go either way with the RAM. My choice was based on price there. Now I see a 2x8GB 3200MhZ kit for only $95 from G.Skill. I'd probably go with that instead if you can get that price.
I have Chief Architect, Office 15, FL Studio, MWO, and some other stuff installed on Windows 10 and I have used 105GB. I also have a ton of samples, documents, and images saved from the past 5 years or so... The problem with disk usage creep is usually the crap Windows keeps around. While I see the possibility of a bigger SSD valid, I also feel like there's a reason why there's a storage drive in the build. Primary things that you need fast loading times for are on the SSD, everything else goes on the HDD. I use this principal even with a 250GB SSD, and have a secondary 1TB Velociraptor for fast storage of anything else. Having games on the SSD doesn't help much in most cases, it's only good for loading times of levels/textures/models really, and those things are kept in RAM after so there isn't constant disk I/O that necessitates it. Games are not like databases
The PSU choice is simple: nobody said anything about 980Ti SLI so why accommodate for it? One 980Ti is fast enough and I don't think Pat is going to try to set any world records with his machine in the $2k range. OCing the CPU and single GPU to their limits still won't put any real pressure on the chosen PSU.
Unless Pat is sitting within 1 foot of his monitor, 1080p on a 27" screen isn't going to bother him any more than 1080p on a 50" TV sitting 10 feet away is. I simply chose it because it's a decent monitor that people like, and honestly that could be replaced by anything else at all. I personally won't be going beyond a 24" monitor for my own use so the monitor choice is rather arbitrary.
#19
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- 512 posts
Member
- Facebook: Link
- LocationSingapore
Posted 01 December 2015 - 05:07 PM
xWiredx, on 01 December 2015 - 11:44 AM, said:
Could probably go either way with the RAM. My choice was based on price there. Now I see a 2x8GB 3200MhZ kit for only $95 from G.Skill. I'd probably go with that instead if you can get that price.
I have Chief Architect, Office 15, FL Studio, MWO, and some other stuff installed on Windows 10 and I have used 105GB. I also have a ton of samples, documents, and images saved from the past 5 years or so... The problem with disk usage creep is usually the crap Windows keeps around. While I see the possibility of a bigger SSD valid, I also feel like there's a reason why there's a storage drive in the build. Primary things that you need fast loading times for are on the SSD, everything else goes on the HDD. I use this principal even with a 250GB SSD, and have a secondary 1TB Velociraptor for fast storage of anything else. Having games on the SSD doesn't help much in most cases, it's only good for loading times of levels/textures/models really, and those things are kept in RAM after so there isn't constant disk I/O that necessitates it. Games are not like databases
The PSU choice is simple: nobody said anything about 980Ti SLI so why accommodate for it? One 980Ti is fast enough and I don't think Pat is going to try to set any world records with his machine in the $2k range. OCing the CPU and single GPU to their limits still won't put any real pressure on the chosen PSU.
you never know mate ppl who got a 980Ti will always want to get more out of their gaming experience with higher res.
a single 980Ti is great for this game with ****** coding. But Crysis 3 will still need a butt ton of GPU horsepower to run it at 1440P and 4K res. Who know Pat is getting Just Cause 3 or Fallout 4 games. Lot of game titles coming this month.
Unless Pat is sitting within 1 foot of his monitor, 1080p on a 27" screen isn't going to bother him any more than 1080p on a 50" TV sitting 10 feet away is. I simply chose it because it's a decent monitor that people like, and honestly that could be replaced by anything else at all. I personally won't be going beyond a 24" monitor for my own use so the monitor choice is rather arbitrary.
well maybe it my OCD and also because i deal with photos because of my other hobby which is photography. I need to see all the dem pixels and also need my monitor to be colour accurate in Adobe RGB.
I have Chief Architect, Office 15, FL Studio, MWO, and some other stuff installed on Windows 10 and I have used 105GB. I also have a ton of samples, documents, and images saved from the past 5 years or so... The problem with disk usage creep is usually the crap Windows keeps around. While I see the possibility of a bigger SSD valid, I also feel like there's a reason why there's a storage drive in the build. Primary things that you need fast loading times for are on the SSD, everything else goes on the HDD. I use this principal even with a 250GB SSD, and have a secondary 1TB Velociraptor for fast storage of anything else. Having games on the SSD doesn't help much in most cases, it's only good for loading times of levels/textures/models really, and those things are kept in RAM after so there isn't constant disk I/O that necessitates it. Games are not like databases
The PSU choice is simple: nobody said anything about 980Ti SLI so why accommodate for it? One 980Ti is fast enough and I don't think Pat is going to try to set any world records with his machine in the $2k range. OCing the CPU and single GPU to their limits still won't put any real pressure on the chosen PSU.
you never know mate ppl who got a 980Ti will always want to get more out of their gaming experience with higher res.
a single 980Ti is great for this game with ****** coding. But Crysis 3 will still need a butt ton of GPU horsepower to run it at 1440P and 4K res. Who know Pat is getting Just Cause 3 or Fallout 4 games. Lot of game titles coming this month.
Unless Pat is sitting within 1 foot of his monitor, 1080p on a 27" screen isn't going to bother him any more than 1080p on a 50" TV sitting 10 feet away is. I simply chose it because it's a decent monitor that people like, and honestly that could be replaced by anything else at all. I personally won't be going beyond a 24" monitor for my own use so the monitor choice is rather arbitrary.
well maybe it my OCD and also because i deal with photos because of my other hobby which is photography. I need to see all the dem pixels and also need my monitor to be colour accurate in Adobe RGB.
I made the comments above
#20
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- 1 posts
Rookie
Posted 02 December 2015 - 05:07 AM
Sorry to kinda ask this but I cant post new threads yet and I really looking for a good answer everywhere. dont know much about PSU either but I would love if you guys have an advice for my problem.
So last night I bought a couple of parts for my new pc build.Its not super over the top but theres some stuff that I think require a good PSU and the one I had in mind ( I was recommended) is out of stock everywhere ( I mean everywhere) I think theres a few in Japan or other countries that have them but either very expensive or do not ship to Puerto Rico. I am talking about the Corsair HX750[/color]http://www.amazon.co...ils?ie=UTF8&me=
My question is if theres some PSU equivalent that would be good enough for parts like ahttp://www.amazon.co...ailpage_o02_s01
http://www.amazon.co...ailpage_o03_s00
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16814125787
I kinda look around a bit and saw this one on another post here [/color]http://www.amazon.co...m_cd_al_qh_dp_t but again I dont know much about PSU and I want to make sure I am getting a good one that will go well with the processor ,the board and GPU.
Ty in advance to anyone and sorry if I posted this on the wrong place.
Also something that will not break my wallet since I still plan on buying a laptop too and if anyone has a good suggestion on the laptop then fire away ( looking for something with a good GPU too but not too expensive) was thinking between http://www.amazon.co...-2015-selection
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16834232769
http://www.amazon.co...4/dp/B00K6ZIMPE
http://www.amazon.co...k/dp/B00BFFB08A
So last night I bought a couple of parts for my new pc build.Its not super over the top but theres some stuff that I think require a good PSU and the one I had in mind ( I was recommended) is out of stock everywhere ( I mean everywhere) I think theres a few in Japan or other countries that have them but either very expensive or do not ship to Puerto Rico. I am talking about the Corsair HX750[/color]http://www.amazon.co...ils?ie=UTF8&me=
My question is if theres some PSU equivalent that would be good enough for parts like ahttp://www.amazon.co...ailpage_o02_s01
http://www.amazon.co...ailpage_o03_s00
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16814125787
I kinda look around a bit and saw this one on another post here [/color]http://www.amazon.co...m_cd_al_qh_dp_t but again I dont know much about PSU and I want to make sure I am getting a good one that will go well with the processor ,the board and GPU.
Ty in advance to anyone and sorry if I posted this on the wrong place.
Also something that will not break my wallet since I still plan on buying a laptop too and if anyone has a good suggestion on the laptop then fire away ( looking for something with a good GPU too but not too expensive) was thinking between http://www.amazon.co...-2015-selection
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16834232769
http://www.amazon.co...4/dp/B00K6ZIMPE
http://www.amazon.co...k/dp/B00BFFB08A
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