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[Project] It Begins...my Own Mech Simpit


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#21 Loc Nar

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Posted 17 November 2012 - 02:02 PM

Easiest way would be using a splitter to get your computer's L/R output to also direct signal to your sub's Low Level L/R input (lRCA jack). Not sure how your current sound system is hooked up or what you will be using. Also don't know what kind of crossovers are in your sub for your x-ducers, but that's important. It sets the cutoff frequency of what is fed to the x-ducers, which are simply modified subwoofer drivers (no voice coil, funny shape...) so can be hooked up as such. If there is no crossover, then you need a different amp that *does have one, or find a discrete component solution.

-Loc Nar

#22 Serrith

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Posted 17 November 2012 - 03:50 PM

View PostLoc Nar, on 17 November 2012 - 02:02 PM, said:

Easiest way would be using a splitter to get your computer's L/R output to also direct signal to your sub's Low Level L/R input (lRCA jack). Not sure how your current sound system is hooked up or what you will be using. Also don't know what kind of crossovers are in your sub for your x-ducers, but that's important. It sets the cutoff frequency of what is fed to the x-ducers, which are simply modified subwoofer drivers (no voice coil, funny shape...) so can be hooked up as such. If there is no crossover, then you need a different amp that *does have one, or find a discrete component solution.

-Loc Nar


Thanks for the help Loc Nar. Here is a picture of my speakers that I will be using with the PC.

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*Edited after finding out more information* - Ok I think I have it have figured out now. I use a "y-adapter" to split the connection coming out of my PC sound card. From there, one end will go to my speaker setup (pictured above) and the other end will head to my x-ducer amplifier LFE jacks. Since these are RCA jacks, I will need this cable to be a stereo to RCA cable. Then located on the back of the x-ducer amp is the two wires that connect to my x-ducer series directly.

If I appear to have it wrong, by all means please let me know. Thanks again!

Edited by Serrith, 17 November 2012 - 04:31 PM.


#23 Weeble

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Posted 17 November 2012 - 10:26 PM

Edit: I just re-read your post on page 1.

The output of your sound card should go to the low level input of the amp. The speaker wires to your transducers will come from the high level out (your amp says "TO SPEAKERS"). That "low level" and "high level" are referring to signal voltage levels, not frequency.

Restating what Loc Nar said: transducers need to be connected like subwoofers. I don't see any built-in crossover in the pic you posted. For best results, I would look for a subwoofer output port on your sound card and run that to the transducer amp.

What sound card are you using?

Edited by Weeble, 17 November 2012 - 10:49 PM.


#24 Serrith

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Posted 17 November 2012 - 10:31 PM

View PostWeeble, on 17 November 2012 - 10:26 PM, said:

Restating what Loc Nar said: transducers need to be connected like subwoofers. If your transducer amplifier has a crossover built-in, you can just split the L + R speaker outputs of the sound card and feed that to the amp. If not, or if you aren't sure, I would look for a subwoofer output port on your sound card and run that to the transducer amp for best results.


:o I didn't even think about the subwoofer port on the PC sound card! Awesome idea, thanks.

#25 Weeble

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Posted 17 November 2012 - 10:56 PM

That's funny! You read my post and replied before I finished editing it. The reason I ask about your sound card is they usually have have the center channel and the subwoofer on one port. You can get an adapter to split them but then you have to figure out which is the center channel and which is the sub. Pretty easy if you just try each one as the input to your speakers. Center channel will sound "normal" but the subwoofer will only have low frequencies.

#26 repete

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Posted 18 November 2012 - 03:49 PM

Hi Serrith

Always love seeing someone join the group of simpit builders. Do you mind if I add yours to the MWO simpit summary thread? I check semi-regularly to add updated pics.

Can you advise if there is any Battlemech you feel your simpit would be particularly inspired by or suited for?

As far as feedback, the first thing I saw was you were planning on using such large panels. I don't have any direct experience with using HD TVs as computer monitors for gaming, but the feedback from Patrick Norton (Revision 3) and Ryan Shrout (PC Perspective) and both of This Week in Computer Hardware is effectively "[The pixel size on HD TVs makes the pixels look as large as lego when viewed up close]".

#27 Serrith

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Posted 18 November 2012 - 08:44 PM

View Postrepete, on 18 November 2012 - 03:49 PM, said:

Hi Serrith

Always love seeing someone join the group of simpit builders. Do you mind if I add yours to the MWO simpit summary thread? I check semi-regularly to add updated pics.

Can you advise if there is any Battlemech you feel your simpit would be particularly inspired by or suited for?

As far as feedback, the first thing I saw was you were planning on using such large panels. I don't have any direct experience with using HD TVs as computer monitors for gaming, but the feedback from Patrick Norton (Revision 3) and Ryan Shrout (PC Perspective) and both of This Week in Computer Hardware is effectively "[The pixel size on HD TVs makes the pixels look as large as lego when viewed up close]".


Hey Repete! Of course I don't mind. Put this anywhere you want :)

To answer your questions...No I am not inspired by any mech in particular. In fact when it is done, you will see it is quite different then any mech out there. The reason being is this, I didn't want a bunch of vanity switches in my cockpit. I want every switch to do something. Unfortunately there are not nearly enough commands in MWO to be assigned to a real replica's amount of switches.

So I just headed in my own direction. As far as the TV's. I am not too worried about it atm, I have already bought the TV's so...there's that ;) But honestly, I think it will be fine. I've played PC games on bigger TV's than these.

Thanks for following along!

#28 Weeble

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 01:37 PM

I just found my cd with viewing angle/distance calculators on it. Ran the numbers based on a 42" widescreen and best guesses based on the pictures you provided. The viewing position "sweet spot" should be around 4' to 5'. You might be a little close but not too much. Should work pretty well since you used 1080p panels.

Getting the seat height/monitor height correct on my driving simulator was the hard thing I did not expect. You need to fire up the game to finalize it because there is a perceived viewing angle built in to the game. It feels weird if you're looking up at your screen and the view onscreen is down towards the ground. Don't get too wrapped up in it, though. Your brain will adapt after a few matches.

#29 Serrith

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Posted 23 November 2012 - 04:23 PM

UPDATE:

So here are a few more pictures of the progress I have made. I made a few changes to the way I'm going to place the TV's. I decided to use wall mounts intead of their stands. So because of that I had to rip out some things and install studs, but I really like the way it turned out.

I started the framing for the top hatch, and it is already strong enough to support me even without the the steel pipe pillars I will be adding.

And last of all I installed a floor on the left side of my seat. Here I will be building a small jumpseat (bench) that my friends or wife can sit on if they want to check out the sim during a game.


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Edited by Serrith, 23 November 2012 - 04:24 PM.


#30 CyBerkut

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Posted 24 November 2012 - 07:02 AM

I hope you left enough headroom, such that the monitors can be lifted up enough to be hung on those wall mounts. ;)

Lookin' good! I like the jump seat idea. A great way to include others. :)

#31 Serrith

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Posted 25 November 2012 - 10:07 PM

UPDATE: 11/25/2012

Alright, here are some more progress pictures!

I took apart my TV's (eek!) and soldered in a set of wires to each power button. This way I can put 3 buttons on one of my control panels to turn them on while staying in immersion.

Afterwards I installed the wall mounts on the TV's and set them in the simpit to make sure everything lined up properly. Overall it looks good and straight, but I still have to convince the OCD in me that it's better to move on and not try and make everything detail perfect.

More to come soon :)

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#32 Serrith

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Posted 09 December 2012 - 09:26 PM

UPDATE: 12/09/2012

Sorry for the brief delay between posts. Things have been a little crazy around the house for the holidays.

I finished the floor and bottom interior walls on both sides of the seat. Next, I built some lower panels for the TV's with a speaker cutout for the front left and right speakers. I'm using steel pipe that I painted to cover the seams between the TV's. Then I built a speaker box for the front center speaker which is installed on the ceiling above the middle monitor.

On the interior ceiling, I installed two parts that will house the over head lighting. I also built the covers for the lights, but have not put them in place yet. You can see them in the pictures below.

I also opened up the front right speaker that housed the PCB for the speaker volume, headphone jack, and power button. I removed the PCB, and soldered in a long wire so that I could put the speaker where it needed to be. I will be installing the PCB with a custom acrylic cover on the right side of the seat so that I can access the volume wihout losing the immersion of the simpit.

Keep checking in for more updates!

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Edited by Serrith, 09 December 2012 - 09:29 PM.


#33 RotS Targe

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Posted 10 December 2012 - 01:50 PM

why did I stop coming to this sub-forum?
Now to catch up on all the sim-pits being made, thanks for reminding me!

#34 repete

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Posted 07 January 2013 - 06:55 PM

Need a status update. :-(

#35 BlueWaffleBuffet

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Posted 07 January 2013 - 07:40 PM

your wife deserves a medal. mine would be riding me hard if i started doing this in my house or garage ;)

#36 POWR

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Posted 16 September 2013 - 03:51 AM

I always feel sad when seeing these threads die :( I want to see the finished product, if it ever became finished :s

#37 Chocolater

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 03:59 PM

This looks awesome! I hope its finished!

#38 Nunspa

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Posted 06 December 2013 - 05:42 AM

<<< HVAC Engineer here

some advice,

You want to put an extractor fan (50 CFM or so) taking air OUT of that closet. We commonly give walk in closets 30 or so CFM of cooling.

By putting a 50 CFM extractor fan you will create some negative pressure witch will help keep that area cool, 3 screens, lights, and the computer (as well as your own body heat) will quickly overwhelm the 30 or so CFM of cooling supplied to the closet.

the BEST way would be to have the extractor fan feed into a 4" duct (thermofin) to the nearest outside wall (make sure you screen the exhaust)

but if that's not an option I would just feed a 6" round duct to the attic (again with a screen....)

#39 C J Sparrow

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Posted 06 January 2014 - 09:55 PM

View PostPOWR, on 16 September 2013 - 03:51 AM, said:

I always feel sad when seeing these threads die :( I want to see the finished product, if it ever became finished :s

If this was my build, I'd not have the time to take photo's.
I would literally live in this simpit!

...now considering a fridge, oven and "waste" facilities for my design! B)





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