[GUIDE] Hardware Mythbusters - An In-Depth Hardware Guide
Posted 02 February 2013 - 09:01 PM
Posted 04 February 2013 - 01:31 PM
Posted 05 February 2013 - 06:47 PM
Some cheaper HOTAS setups have twist for rudder and similar, so no need for extra pedals. The more pricey ones do require a set of pedals or you can map buttons for left/right turning. I am using Thrustmaster Warthog HOTAS + CH ProPedals to play, works fine and would be better if we had proper input support.
Posted 05 February 2013 - 09:36 PM
Posted 06 February 2013 - 02:27 PM
Thrusmaster Hotas Warthog + Saitek Combat Pro Rubber Pedal
i think to have pedal is more comfortable and intuitive ...
Edited by Hakkukakt, 06 February 2013 - 02:30 PM.
Posted 06 February 2013 - 10:01 PM
every control on the stick is re-assignable. It's built into the firmware of the stick so no need for extra software. only two custom presets available though. one for each mode (3 or 4 axis mode)
it has a 3 axis and a 4 axis mode. when the 3 axis mode is set the 'twisty' stick and rudder are the same axis. in 4 axis mode the rudder is separate from the twist stick.
The bottom of the flight stick has a twist knob which adjusts the tension.
Minimal slop unless you adjust the tension way down.
The stick and throttle are stuck together with Alan screws. There is an included wrench on the bottom of the stick and wiring channels to separate the two.
works on the PS3... Kinda cool.
I'm a KB/Mouse player so i'm not getting much use out of it on MWO but it's great for Jane's flight sims and such.
Posted 08 February 2013 - 05:25 AM
Addendum: apologies for the less than desirable image.
Edited by Vegentius, 08 February 2013 - 05:26 AM.
Posted 09 February 2013 - 07:48 AM
Now to overclock
Posted 10 February 2013 - 01:34 PM
Edited by Dragonkin, 10 February 2013 - 01:34 PM.
Posted 17 February 2013 - 05:58 PM
Posted 19 February 2013 - 04:50 PM
If you can decipher what post belonged to which thread, please contact Niko Snow and he will try to recreate them into the state they were before. Only fair as he admitted to have caused this mess.
I have the Data about posts 1 to 220 collected and will send them to him in a few minutes.
Posted 04 March 2013 - 08:39 PM
It looks a lot like the Thrustmaster T.Flight HOTAS, but is an earlier (and IMHO, slightly more reliable) build.
I'll get the cons out of the way first.
- Old. Like me.
- Right-handed only, left-handed throttle only. Lefties need not apply, unfortunately.
- Pots, not Hall effect.
- Pots are mostly good quality units, but are prone to dust and grit.
- Grips can get warm and quite icky due to the use of some weird sweating soft plastic for the 'comfort' bits.
- A bit fiddly to clean internally (the stick, anyway, the throttle is much simpler).
- Driver/management software is old (2008) and is pre-configurable buttons (which is actually a pro, I think)
- Rudder is switchable between the twist grip and a horrible digital toggle thingy on the throttle.
- Not nearly enough buttons!
- Reasonably well built. Bolts are used where bolts are needed, self-tapping screws otherwise.
- There's a dust seal on the stick (but the throttle is a bit of a dustcatcher).
- Pots *seem* to be reliable (mine was bought in 2003 and most are still OK, but see below)
- Great quality (Cherry) switches on the stick (on my unit, anyway).
- Rudder is switchable between the twist grip and a horrible digital toggle thingy on the throttle (yes, it's a con as well, due to the switch, but some folks like it).
- Single unit as shipped, but is splittable (throttle on the left, stick on the right, allen key included to undo the 2 bolts)
- When separated, all controls work to their full extents without moving the base units around.
I replaced the rudder (twist grip) pot, this was a cast-iron beeyatch to get to, but was worth the AUD$0.84 I paid for a sealed pot from Jaycar (it even fit the slot perfectly). That was replaced in 2004, and hasn't been touched since.
The Y-axis gear mechanism is a POS. It was poorly factory formed, and if you really push (or pull) hard, it will slip a tooth and needs to be realigned, which can take up to an hour. I fixed that by a small metal stop epoxied in place.
Cleaning the pots is time-consuming, due to the horrific Chinese-puzzle-type construction of the joystick itself. However, once it's done, some silicone sealant will prevent the pots needing any further cleaning. Mine have lasted over 8 years without a clean, and apart from normal wear and tear, are almost out-of-the-box stable. I get about 3-5 counts of jitter at centre, less in force-feedback mode.
I also added some nice brushed nylon fuzz on the throttle slider, which has totally stopped any dust problems.
In other words, if you can find a used unit on eBay (they vary, AUD$12 - AUD$60 in the past 12 months), it could be a good buy if you're handy with a screwdriver and like mechanical things. It's sure-as-**!* a darn sight cheaper than the Australian replacement price for a current Warthog (~AUD$520 or more), and if you clean and seal the pots, lube the axis gears with a good quality silicon lubricant, and maybe replace any of the (bog-standard) microswitches in the stick with Cherry switches, you could get a nice, solid stick that should work for as long as it takes to save up for a real stick.
Personally, I'm trading up (across?) to a Saitek in the Real Near Future, but this is as much about my nephew wanting my joystick as it is about me wanting to spend all my wife bonus points on a new piece of kit.
In-game (as of today), the "standard" joystick configs work absolutely perfectly with the Topgun, all the switches are bindable, and it still beats the heck out of splitting between a keyboard and a mouse/trackball.
I hope this might be useful for anyone on a budget (or with a generous uncle).
Did you encounter a problem where the stick is locked in a constant Torso Turn? I can't even stay still to provide Fire Sppt with my Catapult. I have the 2.7.30 driver I just downloaded, and it doesn't work. I can only play with my mouse. I tried my old Wingman Extreme Digital 3D, and it has the same issue!
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