Hey i now want to "build" my own mech. Already bought a Hunchback
Can anybody explain me for example the differences between the engines? what are the pros for bigger and heavier engines?
Also when i try to upgrade my heatsinks to the double heatsink why does it say that its removing all my heatsinks? that would be worser would it?...please help me i cant figure it out and i dont have the money to try things out :-(
Bigger engines make your mech go faster but they are heavier so you can pack less weapons with it. XL engines are eXtra Light meaning they a) weigh less cost a lot more c) break down more easily but d) allow you to add more weapons/ammo.
Removal of heatsinks at upgrade simply means it takes the old single heatsinks away and then adds the doubleheatsinks. After this, you can add more of the doubleheatsinks, initially it just puts them into the engine, which requires a certain amount depending on the size. These engine heatsinks are just magically inside the engine and don't take any real slots.
I suggest checking smurfy to get the actual numbers of different components, mechlab isn't that informative until they get UI 2.0 out. http://mwo.smurfy-net.de/
Just as a tip, XL's are risky in Hunchbacks. When your armor is gone, damage then has a chance to crit your internal components such as your engine. Three crits to an engine will kill you...A standard engine is confined to your center torso while is contained in your center AND left and right torsos. Mix that with the Hunchy's prominent shoulder hitbox and you've got an easy target for insta-death.
Although, you could argue that once all your main guns are gone with the shoulder you're pretty useless anyway...but I'd rather run around like a zombie mech than be dead.
A good, very general rule to follow is only use an XL in lights, where weight is at a premium (and Cicadas too). As far as double heat sinks go, the singles are removed because doubles and singles cannot exist on the same mech.
Hey i now want to "build" my own mech. Already bought a Hunchback
Can anybody explain me for example the differences between the engines? what are the pros for bigger and heavier engines?
Also when i try to upgrade my heatsinks to the double heatsink why does it say that its removing all my heatsinks? that would be worser would it?...please help me i cant figure it out and i dont have the money to try things out :-(
The engine numbers are a rating. For every 25 rating, it contains another heatsink. To run a mech you must have 10 heatsinks minimum (250 contains 10 heatsinks in itself, 225 contains 9, 200 contains 8, and so on). If you do not have 10 heatsinks total, you will be required to add additional heatsinks to run the mech regardless of heat efficiency.
If your engine rating is 275 and up, you will gain additional heatsink slots to put inside the engine without consuming space on your mech. 300 allows 2 additional heatsinks, 325 allows 3. 350 allows 4. 375 allows 5. 400 allows 6 additional heatsinks to be installed without consuming extra space on your mech.
The higher the engine rating, the faster you can walk, the faster you can turn, the faster you can twist your body, and the higher your heat threshold gets with additional heatsinks (you can shoot longer without being shut down).
Now as mentioned already, there's standard engines which are heavier, and XL engines which are lighter but larger.
Here's the difference.
A STD engine is
Heavier, but compact.
It sits in your center torso. This means you can lose both of your shoulders and keep running around with no arms.
It's ideal for survival.
When it comes to double heatsinks, you can always run 2 more DHS maximum with an STD than is possible with an XL.
Mechs with side torso mounts require a STD engine to run a Type-20 mount AutoCannon (AC/20).
STD engines are always ideal in mechs with wide side torsos and any mech with one powerful side or heavy concentration of weapons in one side (such as a Hunchback).
Are cheap.
An XL engine is
made of softer, lighter but much more expensive metals.
Being lighter, you can carry more. Example: 170 Rated Engine: STD is 9 tons. XL is 4 tons.
consumes a lot of space spreading out into the side torsos. If you lose your side torsos, you die.
Specifically it consumes 3 spaces in each side torso (6 total), reducing your maximum potential double heatsinks by 2 (as each DHS consumes 3 spaces).
You do not want to run both a Gauss Rifle and an XL at the same time in any mech -- losing the rifle means the resulting explosion has a 90% chance of detonating your engine.
XL engines are ideal in mechs with small or difficult to hit side torsos, such as a Catapult, Dragon, etc.
XL engines are ideal in mechs that need to carry firepower and be fast, such as light mechs.
XL engines are ideal in ballistic heavy mechs in order to carry a decent amount of ammunition.
XL engines are ideal in mechs with small side torsos
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When you upgrade from STD heatsinks to Double heatsinks, it swaps the ones in your engine as well as remove all of the STD heatsinks from your mech. You can then purchase and add Double Heatsinks to the mech.
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The ideal engine for any Hunchback is a STD 260, which works on most Hunchbacks except the 4G and some builds of the 4H and 4J. For those, an STD 225 engine is a solid compromise.
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The ideal mech upgrade is Endo-Steel, as it gives you more weight per ton but consumes 14 crit slots. Be warned, this reduces potential options as equally as it increases potential options. On the Hunchback, however, you can never fully consume every slot with a practical build.
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Hunchbacks are among the most capable and versatile mechs, making them ideal for new players. An ideal mech is one that can fulfill virtually any role or run virtually any build and still have a fair chance of winning. (Examples of non-ideal mechs: Stalker as a scout, Commando as a brawler, Raven 2x or 4x as hit-and-run harassers, Awesome as a brawler as only certain variants can do it, etc.)
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Questions previously asked. Check out the full thread here as I answered over 30 different questions on there in great detail.
Koniving, on 23 March 2013 - 08:19 PM, said:
DPS is not as important as burst damage, this is especially true in faster mechs. In slower mechs it is important to have good solutions for both.
Example: Default Hunchback 4H (no changes other than paintjob. Factory default, standard HS, etc.). Burst damage from AC-10. Energy weapons are the DPS.
I'm not going to recommend a setup. It is best to discover on your own.
2) What are the types of combat roles in MWO? Can someone list them?
This is not an easy task but I'll try.
Tank -- the basic roles of assaults.
direct fire support (long range ballistics; snipers and auto cannon spammers)
in-direct fire support (LRMs, artillery)
hit-and-run (dragons, lights, cataphract 1-x, centurions, some hunchbacks and trebuchets).
ninjas (smart ecm lights that like to sneak up behind people and blast the crap out of them for a quick kill, like me when pugging. Could also be people that sneak past everyone to steal a base or to burst-damage a kill).
Recon. (Scout)
Brawler (fights at close range with or without help.)
Harasser (call themselves scouts but do anything except scouting. Annoys enemies. Raven 3-Ls are common for this. Spiders excel at it.)
Brawling support / escort (Most Hunchbacks, mediums in general, and slower heavy hitting brawling lights such as the Ravens 2x and 4x fit this category under ideal circumstances).
Bait. Easy to spot, begging to be chased. (This will usually have high back armor and try to isolate you from your allies. 9 times out of 10 it works. Spiders are also great at this.)
Trolls. Typically pink or brightly colored. A troll mech has a build that's likely to **** you off and get your attention away from what really matters. Usually these builds include machine guns and flamers.
3) Which type of weapon is usually more reliable in combat?
Ballistics deal instant damage, generate low heat. Very heavy though.
Energy weapons deliver gradual damage, need to be concentrated to work (like sunlight through a magnifying glass). No ammo.
Exception is the PPC. Works like a cannon, travels like a gauss.
Missiles deliver quick damage but are often questionable in accuracy and awful in spread.
When it comes to energy pulse generates more heat but gets the job done in usually half the time. Often does more damage too. Except small pulse; which generates more heat weighs twice as much but deals the same damage in half the time. Great thing? A bunch of them fire like a machine gun in chain fire and sound like a dubstep mix.
4) What ratio if heat efficiency should I aim for, for most mechs? What do the ratios mean? I like 0.9, 1.3, 1.5?
Most efficient is 2.0. 1.0 means you can sink the heat per weapon as fast as you generate it, however when you fire lots of them it gets hard. 2.0 means you can sink it twice as fast as you can make it. Anything less than one and you better be ready to keep your finger off the trigger.
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cost a lot more c) break down more easily but d) allow you to add more weapons/ammo.
Flashbong, on 04 May 2013 - 05:52 AM, said:
