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Jm6-Dd Brawler Build


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#1 Drykax

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 09:57 AM

Hey,
Ive only been playing the game for 2/3 days but im trying to build my JM6-DD into a brawler type.

atm this is my build: http://mwo.smurfy-ne...44c592c8d86a913

But ive been doubting to replace the 2x LB10 for 2x AC/10

any thoughts or other ideas for a DD brawler build?

#2 Hex Pallett

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 10:48 AM

Welcome :wub:

And yeah, that's definitely a newbie's build B)

In general, Jager is not supposed to be a brawler, especially so if you have an XL engine. Their large LT/RT makes it rather vulnerable at close range. I would recommend maintaining about 300m from enemies (except when chasing for a final blow of course). Any autocannon build should feel comfortable at that range.

Besides, if you're not carrying two AC20s, twin-Gauss or quad-AC2 on an XL Jager, you are definitely underarmed for the weight you saved with XL.

For your reference: STD260 2xAC10 STD260 2xLBX10 XL260 2xGauss

#3 Phlinger

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 12:25 PM

Yea, Helmstif kind of nailed it. If your running an XL Jager, pack the big guns or pack up and go home. BUT, if you want to try out a decent brawler build, go with either a 260std or a 280std, get a longer ranged weapon to help you close that also works when you are brawling. Remember, Jagers are so common right now that Everyone learns how to take out a side torso as one of the first things they discover in the game for tactics.

Try out this build, I use it sometimes with pretty good results. it's less of a shotgun like the LBX build you posted and more of a gatling gun. The build is pretty tight, so finding room for more ammo can be a pain, but if you need it, lower the engine and lose Ferro-Fibrous armor.

JM6-DD

#4 Gunnr75

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 01:35 PM

Love my DD. Its a killing machine.
True - not a "real" brawler with its XL engine. I shoot from cover with those lofty ballistic points or on the move to my next cover.
1Ac/20
1Lbx10
2mgs
2mls
Its simply a can opener.
Little heat concerns. The mgs and lbx are great crit seekers. And the Ac/20 just feels good.

If you like the DD try out the Firebrand
Mine is almost the same as the DD but I drop the mgs and mls for a PPC.

Jagers are simply awesome. Nothing else I've tried has even come close in terms of damage, kills, or fun

#5 JesusbuiltmyBattleMech

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 01:42 PM

View PostDrykax, on 30 October 2013 - 09:57 AM, said:

Hey,
Ive only been playing the game for 2/3 days but im trying to build my JM6-DD into a brawler type.

atm this is my build: http://mwo.smurfy-ne...44c592c8d86a913

But ive been doubting to replace the 2x LB10 for 2x AC/10

any thoughts or other ideas for a DD brawler build?


Cool one, I will try to use LBX later. This build shall put a lot of mechs in the ground.

My build here: http://mwomercs.com/...ost__p__2585878

Link to the mechlab: http://mwo.smurfy-ne...c60f35a2a5afc39

#6 Drykax

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 02:01 PM

Thnx for all the info and the builds :D

Maybe rly rly dumb question but can some1 please explain the big difference between XL engines and the STD ones.

Btw not a huge fan of the U AC/5 as i rly hate the jamming part.

#7 Eaerie

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 02:19 PM

XL engines take up space in the side torso's standard engines do not.

most brawler builds rely on the fact they can lose a ST and still remain functional (able to absorb a lot more punishment before mech death) which is immpossible with an XL engine in the side torso slots.

#8 DONTOR

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 02:21 PM

welcome! heres a few things to help you, lose FERRO and add ENDO STEEL. You save more weight this way FERRO doesnt make your armor better just a little lighter.

As for XL engines, since the engine occupies your Center torso and both side torsos, if any of them are destroyed your mech is totalled.
A standard engine weighs more takes up only center torso slots. Meaning if either of your side torsos gets taken out you still survive.
Whenever you have an XL engine it isnt wise to keep ammo in the side torsos, as it can explode thus killing you. Same goes for center torso. The arms on Jaegers rarely get targeted so you can move those 4 tons of ammo from your center torso, and side torsos to your arms.
An easy to use Jaeger build that works at all ranges is 4 AC5s it will tear most things to shreds but isnt great against lights.

#9 SchwarzerPeter

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 02:34 PM

Xl engines weigth less than a Std engine but they take 3 more slots in each side torso. Also with a Xl you die if you lose one of your side torsos (because there is your engine). With a Std you only die if your Center Torso is taken out.

So in general you are more fragile with a Xl engine. Depends on the mech of course. Some mechs have very smal side torsos (good for Xl) and some pretty large (bad for Xl).

The Jagger has some of the largest sides in the whole game. So if you take a Xl you have to gun up, glas cannon style (sort of). Dual AC20 or Dual Gaus is normaly the way to go.

#10 Drykax

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 05:01 PM

sweet lots of new info :D

Well ill have to stick with the XL engine as i dont have the funds to get the STD one + with the XL engine i am able to run 3 Machine Gun and 2x Gauss.

So getting a Standard armor + Endo steel will be my prio.

Btw are there any other good ballistic heavy / assault mechs? ( i rly only like ballistic lol )

#11 Aaron45

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 05:21 PM

View PostHelmstif, on 30 October 2013 - 10:48 AM, said:

Welcome :lol:

And yeah, that's definitely a newbie's build :D

In general, Jager is not supposed to be a brawler, especially so if you have an XL engine. Their large LT/RT makes it rather vulnerable at close range. I would recommend maintaining about 300m from enemies (except when chasing for a final blow of course). Any autocannon build should feel comfortable at that range.

Besides, if you're not carrying two AC20s, twin-Gauss or quad-AC2 on an XL Jager, you are definitely underarmed for the weight you saved with XL.

For your reference: STD260 2xAC10 STD260 2xLBX10 XL260 2xGauss

Bullcrap. Why is that build a newbee one? iam anhilating ppl with that build. Avg 3 kills.

Btw OP- Great build congrats. Just leave it as it is and if ya feel like to have a larger distance between you and the ennemy, replace the lbx´s just with ac10´s


Edit: You should strip the legs down to 40-45. And use the free tonnage for a better engine. Dont forget to get Endosteel. You will need alot more lbx ammo. Like at least 6-9 tons.

Edited by Aaron45, 30 October 2013 - 05:24 PM.


#12 Hex Pallett

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 07:02 PM

View PostAaron45, on 30 October 2013 - 05:21 PM, said:

Bullcrap. Why is that build a newbee one? iam anhilating ppl with that build. Avg 3 kills.


The fact that he's loading XL260 when an STD260 or XL300 could easily squeeze in there? The fact that quad-MG demands close-range constant-facing to a single direction, exposing the fat LT/RT?


On a side note, for AC10 vs. LBX10:

AC10 is definitely more effective against 50+ toners at range, even more so if you're a good shot. But LBX10 weights a ton less, meaning you can throw an extra ton of ammo in there. The shotgun spread lacks AC10's pinpoint punch for sure, but it also makes aiming more forgiving while makes arguably no real difference than AC10 within 200m, or against larger targets. Also, even though Smurfy's says otherwise, I'm pretty sure LBX10 has lower cooldown than AC10.

Oh and Lights drop like flies around twin-LBX10.

Edited by Helmstif, 30 October 2013 - 07:03 PM.


#13 Aaron45

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 07:50 PM

View PostHelmstif, on 30 October 2013 - 07:02 PM, said:


The fact that he's loading XL260 when an STD260 or XL300 could easily squeeze in there? The fact that quad-MG demands close-range constant-facing to a single direction, exposing the fat LT/RT?


On a side note, for AC10 vs. LBX10:

AC10 is definitely more effective against 50+ toners at range, even more so if you're a good shot. But LBX10 weights a ton less, meaning you can throw an extra ton of ammo in there. The shotgun spread lacks AC10's pinpoint punch for sure, but it also makes aiming more forgiving while makes arguably no real difference than AC10 within 200m, or against larger targets. Also, even though Smurfy's says otherwise, I'm pretty sure LBX10 has lower cooldown than AC10.

Oh and Lights drop like flies around twin-LBX10.

Bull {Scrap}, dont annoy the newbees with your half knowlegde- lbx + machine gun works awesomely great

#14 Hex Pallett

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 08:35 PM

View PostAaron45, on 30 October 2013 - 07:50 PM, said:

Bull {Scrap}, dont annoy the newbees with your half knowlegde- lbx + machine gun works awesomely great


How about a video record to show that it's not you who has incredible luck? :D

It's not like you need to pay for MSI Afterburner :lol:

#15 Drykax

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 02:47 AM

Well tbh saying its a newbie build just because i have a XL260 engine does sound weird.
As the xl260 is standard in the DD and so far i don't have the funds yet to change it to an STD engine.

think im gonna stick with the Mgs and the LBX 10, just think i rly need a anit missile system build into it. Them rockets are hurting me 24/7

#16 Hex Pallett

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 02:57 AM

View PostDrykax, on 31 October 2013 - 02:47 AM, said:

think im gonna stick with the Mgs and the LBX 10, just think i rly need a anit missile system build into it. Them rockets are hurting me 24/7


Whatever floats your boat. Though I'd say when you're fast enough, you don't necessarily need AMS.

#17 TheKildar

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 03:30 AM

I have been a Jaeger pilot since I first started and it is possible to make this a viable build, just not as a frontline brawler, should be used more as a cleaner or flanker. Mine had the stock XL, 4MG, 2LB10, but also had 2 medium pulse lasers. This is an insanely good build for tearing apart anything with weak or no armor left as it gets awesome criticals. I call it the Critseeker.....or Critosaurus Rex. Note: mine is mastered so the lower speed from stock XL is buffed by speed tweak. also Helmstiff is generally correct about the XL=use big *** guns on a jaeger, so mine is just as often configured as a dual gauss or ac40 build.

Edited by TheKildar, 31 October 2013 - 03:33 AM.


#18 Drykax

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 03:48 AM

Atm im running it like this: JM6-DD

#19 JesusbuiltmyBattleMech

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Posted 02 November 2013 - 08:01 AM

View PostDONTOR, on 30 October 2013 - 02:21 PM, said:

welcome! heres a few things to help you, lose FERRO and add ENDO STEEL. You save more weight this way FERRO doesnt make your armor better just a little lighter.


Sorry, have to disagree. That's what I thought a long time. But here is the truth:

Quote

  • Ferro-Fibrous Armor provides 12% more armor per ton, but consumes 14 Critical Slots.


http://mwo.gamepedia.com/Armor

#20 Nehkrosis

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Posted 02 November 2013 - 08:03 AM

Ferro is almost always not worth it.





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