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[Guide] The Ultimate Hunchback Guide


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#1 Helmstif

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Posted 26 November 2012 - 11:50 AM

[scroll down to the bottom of this topic for surprise :D]


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If you're relatively new to MWO and are thinking of what 'Mech to elite first, then congratulations! This post has it all. The Hunchback chassis is no doubt the best chassis to begin with and to stick with, proven by the fact that this very post is the most viewed post under Battlemech Guides sub-forum, and the tons of helpful replies under it.

Hunckbacks are very cheap to purchase, arm and upgrade, and very comfortable to run. The different variants have covered almost all types of roles in the battlefield. You can learn all the basics you need to know with these sweethearts, and do some incredible damage when you mastered - or rather, Mastered - them.

However, like life, there's nothing perfect. Being a 50-toner means Hunchbacks should not be the "tank" on the front line, but more of a flanker and supporter role. Don't get me wrong, a flanker who knows what he/she's doing could easily top the damage chart. Don't be ashamed if you have to run - in fact you SHOULD be relocating very often, dodging from cover to cover, harassing busy enemies and picking off weakened ones. And don't be ashamed when you use friendly Assault 'mechs as cover - an Atlas with a nifty Hunchback orbiting around it could do miracle.

The significant feature of Hunchback is, of course, the massive Right Torso "hunch" on all variants save one. While the guns mounted in the hunch are around your head level, making shooting from cover very easy, you will soon realize your hunch will take a LOT of fire if you're not careful. The whole area hunch counts as Right Torso Front, so when building it you want to distribute more armor to RT Front than Rear. It also means loading an XL engine is a massive deathtrap. In combat, you should ALWAYS be twisting your torso around during your weapons' cooldown, shielding your RT with your LT to protect all those armaments packed inside. Building up this "right-hook" mentality will help go a long way even when you move on from HBK to many other Chassis.

Anyway, rules of thumb: stay mobile, keep low, don't wander off alone for long, and engage occupied enemies in priority. That should keep you going.

So without further ado let's get to the builds. Note that you need only three variants to Elite, and in my case they are 4H(later replaced by Grid Iron), 4P and 4SP, which will be focused on. 4G and 4J will be included too, and I will explain why those two are slightly less favorable than the other variants.

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I. HBK-4G

Hold on for a moment. If you're think of buying a 4G because those three ballistic hardpoints looks delicious, pro-tip: they aren't. You might want to look at 4H or Grid Iron instead.

Wait, you already bought one? Nevermind, let's go on! After all, it does have 5-degree extra torso pitch, a trait unique to 4G and Grid Iron.

Starter Build: STD200, 10DHS, Endo, 1xAC20(3ton), 2xMG(1ton), 3xML, AMS

If you're trying to utilize the three ballistic hardpoints, this is the only option I see fit. AC20 is without any doubt one of the strongest weapon in-game, and is the standard equipment of many larger 'Mechs, so it's a must-have. Machine Guns will do significant crit damage against exposed internals, great for crippling enemy weapons late-game. The three MLas are definitely a healthy thing to have, providing enough damage for finishing moves, and defense against Light 'Mechs.

Keep up with your main group, be conservative about when to engage. Mid-game chaotic brawling is your moment to shine, as your mighty shoulder cannon chew through the armor of larger foes who are busy engaging your bigger brothers.

However, I would very much consider this stock-engine build as a temporary solution, as firing MGs require you to constantly face toward a single direction, EXACTLY the opposite of what you should be doing to preserve your hunch. Running the stock STD200 engine also means you'll be quite a bit slower - and more awkward - than many of your comrades.

Which is why I STRONGLY recommend you switch to the Golden Formula of AC20 Hunchbacks as soon as you get enough C-Bill:

STD250, 10DHS(engine), Endo, FF-armor, 1xAC20(3ton), 3xML

Machine guns and AMS has been taken away to make space for the largest engine possible with AC20 (having AMS is good, but not on top of the priority list when you have the speed to dodge into cover). You'll easily find your rhythm with your arms/shoulder/head three groups of weapons.

Here is a video demonstration of the Golden Formula, courtesy of No Guts No Galaxy:



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II. HBK-4H

Hold on for a moment. If you're thinking of buying 4H because I just told you so, remember: there's always Grid Iron.

Starter build: STD200, 12DHS, Endo, 1xAC20(3ton), 5xML

Two of the 4G's ballistic hardpoints are replaced my waist-level energy hardpoints, which in my opinion makes them much easier to sync with the head-mounted energy hardpoint. The single ballistic hardpoint makes AC20 the obvious option, and five MLas will provide you with much steadier performance than a pair of MGs.

Your speed though, again, is your main drawback. Your lack of heavier armor is definitely not helping in this case, so when you have faith in your movement and heat management (upgrading your Pilot Tree definitely helps in that regard), do not hesitate to bring in the modified Golden Formula:

STD250, 10DHS(engine), Endo, FF-armor, 10DHS, 1xAC20(3ton), 2xML, 3xSL (courtesy of Ravennus).

An AC20 with this kind of speed is absolutely brutal, proven by all those AC20 Yen Lo Wangs out there...and this build has more firepower. The head-MLas is replaced with three SLas, trading range and a bit of leg armor for better weapon sync and damage output. Sometimes all you need is the little extra oomph to finishing someone off.

Video proof:



(Btw, do not be fooled by those who claim AC20 Blackjacks are so much better. They get so cocky with those two little Jumpjets they forget about their XL engines under the thin armor.)

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III. HBK-4J

Since this is the variant I do now own, I'll just put the most sensible build down here:

STD250, 10DHS(engine), Endo, FF-armor, 2xLRM10(4ton), 2xML, 3xSL, TAG, BAP (courtesy of Ewigan)

4J is the designated LRM boat in the Hunchback chassis. Two 10-silo missile hardpoints in the hunch, plus enough energy hardpoints to make a Catapult A1 burn in jealousy. The head-mounted TAG comes in handy when you shoot from cover, and the burst damage of rapid-firing twin LRM10s certainly won't go ignored. The Grid Iron patch brought the size of it's hunch down to merely more than a 4SP's hunches (THANK YOU PGI), and should you decide not to equip any missiles, your hunch will be removed completely, a trait unique to 4J and 4SP Hunchbacks. The energy hardpoints are, unfortunately, at waist level, but being a hunch-less Hunchback opens up some interesting possibilities.

I would personally stick to this loadout if I owned one. Artemis is a beautiful addition to any LRM launchers, and the extra speed is crucial for a small LRM boat. The XL engine may increase the risk of being cored by losing RT, but considering you'll lose almost all weapons when your RT is gone, it doesn't wouldn't much of a difference. You can also do it without Artemis and upgrade your RT lasers to MLas, and add more Double Heatsinks with some reduced armor here and there to increase your mid-range ability. Adjust to taste.

In short, when comes to LRM boating, 4J does not shine as much as Trebuchet, a whole chassis dedicated to LRM. However, if you don't feel like going into another chassis who's MUCH bigger in size and variants are not all well designed, then 4J should be your LRM companion.

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IV. HBK-4P

Now, what used to be my main 'Mech, my Ghetto Delight, was STD260, 19DHS, 7xSL, 2xML, AMS. But since the engine cap has been raised, I realized I could take things up a notch:

STD275, 19DHS, Endo, 7xSL, 2xMPL

This thing is so much fun to run and deals ridiculous damage as a match goes. You're essentially carrying a point-blank effective, rapid-firing AC20 that does not require any ammo. It's an amazing harasser, a more than effective Light killer, a literally accurate "disarmer" that runs around the battlefield and shoots at everything that moves. The 19DHS ensures it would almost never overheats. Pretty much a no-brainer besides the basic rules regarding Hunchbacks.

HOWEVER.

However, if you feel like you've got a grip on how to manage heat, there's also the upgraded stock build:

STD275, 17DHS, Endo, 9xML

I used to shy away from nine Medium Lasers since overheating bothered me heavily. I NEVER regretted trying this out. The burst damage of nine MLas is absolutely ridiculous. It of course requires better trigger discipline and better aiming, but totally controllable. You could burn though an Atlas' rear armor in the matter of seconds, and headshot any overheated 'Mech with a single burst. Plus it has more range.



Oh, also, although it is unfortunately not captured by the clip above, it is entirely possible to one-shot a Light in the back who comes across and forgets to zigzag.

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V. HBK-4SP

4SP arguably outclass 4J in every single way. One energy hardpoint short, 4SP has four energy hardpoints in the arms, immediately increasing their effectiveness against smaller targets by roughly 60%. Strip the STD250 engine from your AC20 Hunchback and stuff into this thing, and you'll have:

STD250, 14DHS, Endo, 2xSRM6(3ton), 5xML, AMS

This beefed-up stock build is the perfect beginner brawler. 4SP will teach you almost everything you need to know about close-quarter SRM combat, mostly regarding leading the shots and heat control. And if you miss, you have five MLas to keep the pressure on. 14 DHS may not be sufficient to handle constant firing of all the weapons, but the symmetric design of 4SP allows you to groups weapons and fire them in terms very easily (as demonstrated in the video below).

And if you're willing to sacrifice some anti-LRM capability and heat-efficiency for some extra speed:

STD275, 13DHS, Endo, 2xSRM6(3ton), 5xML



There're many ways for minor-tweaking on a 4SP: adjusting armor, take out the head laser and/or AMS to make space for Artemis (many consider it crucial to have in order to negate SRM6's spread). I would say after running with this 4SP for a long time without Artemis (which costs a fortune to upgrade), I could certainly live without it.

Oh, and don't forget, any build that works on 4J works on 4SP too.

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HERO: Grid Iron

The bright-colored Hunchback Hero. Trading a ballistic hardpoint of 4G for a missile hardpoint in the LT, which, in my humbled opinion, is completely pointless. Trust me, just stick to the Golden Formula.

Posted Image

Wisdom: if it ain't broke, don't fix it ;)

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There we go, my revised Ultimate Hunchback Guide. There's no doubt Hunchbacks are perfect for new comers to get the grip of the game, and they also perform exceptionally well in the hands of experienced pilots. In fact my Hunchbacks remains my top-rated 'Mechs of all time, both in user experience and stats. Thanks again to NGNG for allowing me to include their 4G demo. You are all very welcomed, ladies.






[Incoming surprise in 3...2...1...]

***

WARNING: Dueling between friendlies is strongly not recommended. It affects your team's performance and WILL cost you C-Bills. (Also PGI can we have a 1v1 Solaris VII game mode?)



Yeah, I think that about sums up how to move your Hunchback in any situation.

Edited by Helmstif, 20 February 2014 - 12:18 AM.


#2 Lavrenti

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Posted 26 November 2012 - 12:59 PM

I'm getting a sort of Slavic mythology vibe off those names, so I'm going to guess that they're inspired by 'The Witcher'.

Anyway, good guide.
I'd suggest that the 250 standard is a good break point for engine choice and better than the 245. It gets the speed up to a decent level and is also the smallest that can fit 10 heat sinks inside it. XL engines on Hunchies strike me as a bad idea in general because everyone is in the habit of taking out your right torso no matter what you're piloting. For the 4SP and 4H dropping a ton of ammo and the AMS (or the Artemis upgrade) would let you fit a 250, which would help with both heat and speed.
Otherwise I don't have much to add except that I pretty much agree with what you've said.

#3 Aware

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Posted 26 November 2012 - 02:34 PM

The thing about the Founder's Hunchback isn't that is a bad layout. It isn't optimal for sure but you just need to understand that under no circumstance are you going to use all 3 of those ballistic slots. Not to mention you can run a nice AC/20 build and get the founders C-bill bonus.

#4 e36blur

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Posted 26 November 2012 - 02:36 PM

I'm running a 4J with 2xLRM20, 3 tons of LRM ammo case and a 225 engine... oh and some lasers. It's like a catapult without ears :D

Edited by e36blur, 26 November 2012 - 02:37 PM.


#5 Hauser

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Posted 26 November 2012 - 03:37 PM

I wonder if people could help me reconstruct a build.

I saw this build for the 4P in the field. It looked pretty effective if not for the pilot. I'd like to know if this build is possible at all withouth an XL engine. Couldn't figure it out in the field because he got cored on the centre torso.

4P

6 Medium Lasers
2 Large Lasers

Approximate speed 70 kph.

#6 Vallyn

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Posted 26 November 2012 - 03:43 PM

View PostHauser, on 26 November 2012 - 03:37 PM, said:

I wonder if people could help me reconstruct a build.

I saw this build for the 4P in the field. It looked pretty effective if not for the pilot. I'd like to know if this build is possible at all withouth an XL engine. Couldn't figure it out in the field because he got cored on the centre torso.

4P

6 Medium Lasers
2 Large Lasers

Approximate speed 70 kph.


Sounds like a 210 St. Engine. I run a 260 with 9 ML's and 17 HS. Downgrade the engine and 3 ML and that's 9 tons right there - enough to put on the Lasers if you didn't have AMS easy.

Edited by Vallyn, 26 November 2012 - 03:51 PM.


#7 Temptis

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Posted 26 November 2012 - 03:52 PM

View PostHauser, on 26 November 2012 - 03:37 PM, said:

I wonder if people could help me reconstruct a build.

I saw this build for the 4P in the field. It looked pretty effective if not for the pilot. I'd like to know if this build is possible at all withouth an XL engine. Couldn't figure it out in the field because he got cored on the centre torso.

4P

6 Medium Lasers
2 Large Lasers

Approximate speed 70 kph.

View PostVallyn, on 26 November 2012 - 03:43 PM, said:

Sounds like a 210 St. Engine. I run a 260 with 9 ML's and 17 HS. Take out the engine and 3 ML and that's 9 tons right there - enough to put on the Lasers if you didn't have AMS easy.


not quite.
that's my build:
Std 200 engine (69.x kph with speed tweak)
AMS + 1ton Ammo
LLaser in each arm, 5 MLaser RT 1 MLaser Head (or TAG if I feel like it)
Double Heatsinks until you run out of crit slots
Endo Steel
Max Armor on everything but legs

runs a bit hot, so you need to learn to manage your heat.
LLaser use only at range or when that Jenner is running circles around you
MLaser to fight big stuff up close
oh and yes, you end up with 49/50 tons but I'm to broke to upgrade the engine ,)

#8 Ryft

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Posted 26 November 2012 - 04:15 PM

So far I've purchased these same three hunchbacks. I also purchased a J, but sold it back after realizing that the hunchback is a little too small to be a good missile boat AND bring anything to the fight as backup when you 1) run out of LRM ammo, or 2) get attacked by a scout.

I also wanted a G, but a lot of people in the forums seem to have buyers remorse on that as well. Probably my above reasoning applies to ballistics builds as well... a cataphract the little hunchie cannot be.

Here's an interesting little build:

Take any hunchback model with energy hardpoints in the shoulder... H, J, or P.

add Endosteel
add Double heatsinks
Add a larger engine if you can afford to... not required, though I do recommend the 250.

Time for the fun part...

Equip 2 large lasers in the arms, and 1 PPC in the hunch. You can also play around with dual PPC and 1 large laser, if you prefer. Two PPC in the hunch is only for the hardcore sniper, but to be honest this thing is not a gausscat, nor are you trying to make it one. If you want to hardcore snipe across the board, you want ERPPC anyway,

Add double heatsinks all over to fill out your tonnage, and tweak your armor as you see fit.

What this does:

1) It's a different build that works on several hunchback chassis, so if you discover that you like it you can attain mastery without needing to outfit two other models differently.
2) It is dangerous at any common encounter range. If a gausscat is like a sniper with a .50 rifle, this is like a squad designated marksman with an accurized AR. As a bonus, the hunch is well situated for shooting over hilltops.
3) Putting large lasers on the arms lets you peg light mechs quite nicely, and they compliment the PPC at farther ranges to keep your damage output up.
4) It doesn't overheat much. If you fire the PPC first, then the two lasers, you can fire continuously for several cycles. In practice, dodging around or adjusting aim and such gives you plenty of time to cool down.
5) Most importantly, it isn't gimped if it loses its hunch! If you have either PPC or large laser mounted on the arms, that's still a very viable offense for a medium mech when that line in the sand is being crossed. Sometimes losing the entire hunch causes you to also lose the attached arm, but not always. If you want even more independance from the loss of a hunch and attached arm, you can mount a medium laser in the head, but I don't feel that it's worth it at the weight of a double heatsink.

This is a very flexible damage over time build... it lacks the powerful alpha strike of the SP, or a P kitted out with little lasers, or an H or G packing a gauss or AC20. What it does is output 28-29 damage repeatedly, and it continues to deal around 20 damage after it loses its hunch, whereas the common hunchback builds are limited to around 10-15, and at closer ranges besides. What's more, the ability of this thing to stand off a ways and still cause damage means that you stand the chance to keep that hunch operational long into the match, short of a lucky shot from a gausscat early game. You also stand a better chance of scaring off lights with accurate large laser fire, whereas good luck hitting them at any distance with a ballistic projectile.

I'm currently running this on my P as I work towards my last two elite pilot skills. It's a lot of fun, I would say just as effective as my bulldozer SP, or my gauss and medium lasers H, but of course it plays very differently from either of those.

Edited by Ryft, 26 November 2012 - 04:19 PM.


#9 Smeghead87

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Posted 26 November 2012 - 04:36 PM

I am going to try this build Ryft, as I am struggling to find a decent 4H build that works for me without putting an XL engine in.
Cost isn't the issue, its the fact that as soon as I engage the enemy, my right torso is the first thing to go, so an XL engine is a death sentence. Some long range energy weapons may just be exactly what I need.

I have no problems in my 4SP or 4J, I guess I just don't like ballistics all that much.

Edited by Smeghead87, 26 November 2012 - 04:41 PM.


#10 Ryft

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Posted 26 November 2012 - 08:42 PM

I would never run XL engines with a hunchback. XL engines, to my mind, are strictly for mechs that want to push or exceed 100 kph, because it's only at that sort of speed that an enemy is going to have a hard time training a weapon on one torso spot long enough to crit your engine. Speed is what gives you wiggle room with an XL.

On my H model I currently run a gauss and a bunch of lasers. The gauss is a lot more forgiving than a standard AC because the shot travels faster. It also allows me to stand off a ways and ping away at the enemy.

You can also try an ultra AC 5, or an AC2 in the hunch, and to give it more punch some large or medium pulse lasers instead of the standard mediums. Again, that makes you less reliant on the hunch when stuff goes wrong. And the rapid fire makes for good ballistics practice, so you can see how the shots react to alterations in torso twist, mech velocity, etc. I might try this, actually, because I'm pretty novice with ballistics myself.

On the PPC build:

I own 200 and 250 engines to play with. If you go with the 2LLAS+PPC route, the 250 and as many double heat sinks as you can fit is fine. This build is definitely pretty solid if you know how to play it.

I also tried a more dedicated sniper build, which is hunch dependant. 1 LLAS in the left arm, PPC and ERPPC in the right shoulder. ERPPCs weight the same as a regular PPC, but I have not had time to buy a second ER PPC, nor am I sure that the heat issues are worth it. Couldn't fit that with the 250 engine, but can with the 200. It runs a bit hotter, but if sniping is your game, I recommend it. Pop out over crest of hill, pop off a shot, and duck back down again. Works like a charm.

Edited by Ryft, 26 November 2012 - 08:43 PM.


#11 Helmstif

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Posted 26 November 2012 - 09:26 PM

View PostRyft, on 26 November 2012 - 08:42 PM, said:

I would never run XL engines with a hunchback. XL engines, to my mind, are strictly for mechs that want to push or exceed 100 kph, because it's only at that sort of speed that an enemy is going to have a hard time training a weapon on one torso spot long enough to crit your engine. Speed is what gives you wiggle room with an XL.


That's a personal preference. I'm not used to a medium 'Mech slower than 80 km/h and I firmly believe brawling is manly. An UAC5 could continuously shake an enemy's cockpit and give him/her trouble aiming, which makes him/her either hesitant to shoot or start shooting fanatically and overheat. I'm pretty sure the latter happened at least twice in the past few days. Of course that tactic doesn't work if you're being surrounded, but you shouldn't be doing that in the first place anyway.

#12 Ryft

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Posted 27 November 2012 - 02:45 AM

I suppose, but in the thick of it like that... stuff just happens. You can shake one target in a brawl with that UAC5, but what happens when you draw the attention of 2? I just never felt that an XL was worth it for brawling unless you're screaming past in a Centurion D or Cicada, or at least cruising by in a fast Dragon. And of course an XL is fine in any mech that hangs back in combat to missile boat or snipe.

I guess if I was going to rock an XL in a hunch, I'd go all the way for the 260 so that I could top 90 kph with speed tweak. Not sure how I'd gear the weaponry at that speed, though, or what chassis I'd put that in. Maybe the P? Maybe not... 6 critical spaces in the torsos are two double heat sinks. Hrmmm... *ponders*

#13 sarkun

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 02:47 AM

View PostRyft, on 27 November 2012 - 02:45 AM, said:

I suppose, but in the thick of it like that... stuff just happens. You can shake one target in a brawl with that UAC5, but what happens when you draw the attention of 2? I just never felt that an XL was worth it for brawling unless you're screaming past in a Centurion D or Cicada, or at least cruising by in a fast Dragon. And of course an XL is fine in any mech that hangs back in combat to missile boat or snipe.

I guess if I was going to rock an XL in a hunch, I'd go all the way for the 260 so that I could top 90 kph with speed tweak. Not sure how I'd gear the weaponry at that speed, though, or what chassis I'd put that in. Maybe the P? Maybe not... 6 critical spaces in the torsos are two double heat sinks. Hrmmm... *ponders*


I sometimes roll in an SP with 260XL - 2x SRM6, 4MLAS, Tag, AMS, near max armor (shed a ton from legs). I get plenty of kills just because you can get that 50dmg (!!!) alpha right where it needs to be - fast! Medium mechs die after second alpha to the back, see a damaged heavy - blam! he is dead. 90Kph is usually enough to stay on the back of an atlas, awesomes I can core from the front (though they will damage me pretty badly in the process).

The things I fear is dual ac20 cat & the streak cat. Gauss cats can get you too, but not as often as those damn ac20s.

Sure sometimes you die pretty fast if someone snipes your torso, but this thing is deadly if you know what you're doing.

#14 Ryft

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 11:26 AM

Right, but... ok, basically all your SP is doing is mounting an AMS and a TAG with that saved weight, and going a hair faster than mine does with a standard 250. What's your top speed with speed tweak at in that thing?

Also, how much are you finding the TAG helps the SRMs?

#15 Wrenchfarm

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 03:19 PM

Hum, can't say I would ever run an XL in any Hunch, even the 4SP. Seems like way too big a vulnerability for the marginal increase in weapon load. I mean, the 4SP can already stock 5 MLAS, 2 SRM6s, and an AMS with a 245 engine. What more could you want?

#16 Aware

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 03:53 PM

View PostWrenchfarm, on 28 November 2012 - 03:19 PM, said:

Hum, can't say I would ever run an XL in any Hunch, even the 4SP. Seems like way too big a vulnerability for the marginal increase in weapon load. I mean, the 4SP can already stock 5 MLAS, 2 SRM6s, and an AMS with a 245 engine. What more could you want?

I don't understand peoples need to add that 5th MLas. 4 MLAS plus 2 SRM6's runs hot as is in a fight that you can continuously fire. I guess your alpha can go up but I don't think it is worth it.

#17 Wrenchfarm

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 04:20 PM

View PostAware, on 28 November 2012 - 03:53 PM, said:

I don't understand peoples need to add that 5th MLas. 4 MLAS plus 2 SRM6's runs hot as is in a fight that you can continuously fire. I guess your alpha can go up but I don't think it is worth it.


Functionality.

Zombie power. I don't use the head laser until one of the arms gets blown off, then I use it to supplement that loss of fire power. There have been plenty of matches I've finished out with just my head and maybe an SRM pack.

In some odd cases you end up in a situation where your arms are obstructed by low terrain or obstacles to the side, the head laser can always hit what you see. Not the most common occurrence, but I like to be able to always damage someone if I want to.

Also yes, if you happen to come across a totally oblivious Atlas or LRM boat, a 5 MLAS, 2 SRM6 Alpha square to the back plate will RUIN their day. But those situations are few and far between.

The head MLAS isn't a deal breaker, but I find it useful enough to make room for it. Give it a shot sometime.

#18 AZA311

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 07:17 AM

I have a question i'm hoping someone can help with.

I'm loving my 4P and i want it to be a close range laser monster.

So i'm wondering, lasers have their optimum range right? But what about before they reach their optimum range. Is there a damage 'build up' before reaching optimum range like there is damage dropoff once you go past maximum range?

Like 9 is the maximum damage of LLs at 450M. Would it still be 9 at let's say 30M? Or would it be lower?

Reason i wonder is due to close range considerations. I'm not so big on DPS but more on damage output

#19 Aware

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 09:41 AM

View PostAZA311, on 29 November 2012 - 07:17 AM, said:

I have a question i'm hoping someone can help with.

I'm loving my 4P and i want it to be a close range laser monster.

So i'm wondering, lasers have their optimum range right? But what about before they reach their optimum range. Is there a damage 'build up' before reaching optimum range like there is damage dropoff once you go past maximum range?

Like 9 is the maximum damage of LLs at 450M. Would it still be 9 at let's say 30M? Or would it be lower?

Reason i wonder is due to close range considerations. I'm not so big on DPS but more on damage output

There is no minimum range so anything under 450M does the full 9 as long you keep the beams on target.

#20 Cairrbre

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 01:23 PM

Thank you for the tips mate, new to the game (started a few days back), did not know what to choose as my first mech, went for a 4SP and do not regret it. Especially when meeting the overconfident centurion with arms to loose :P.

Was thinking of maybe trying a combination of medium pulse with ssrm. As I understand pulse are more focused so would transfer more energy on a smaller area. Also, those ssrm would help better keep those pesky Jenners off the heavy and assaults and, although more expensive would probably make up by missing less. Is it worth it?





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