9 replies to this topic

[EuphoriaProject]

OK, I don't ever post on here, but I wanted to share my work with the community. I hope it inspires more folks to build their own controls and interfaces for ALL simulation type games. This is the first part of my project, since MWO is quite lacking in decent input device support. Anyways, here goes:

I was shopping for a HOTAS setup on Ebay and Shopgoodwill.com. Unfortunately, every time I bid on a Thrustmaster, I was outbid beyond my reasonable budget (wife doesn't care much for my gaming habits), so I was limited on choices. I ended up scoring an older Hori Flight Stick 2 for PS2 (YES, PLAYSTATION 2) for $30 shipped from goodwill. Here's a stock image:
The throttle features two Hat switches (well, they consider them DPADS) and two buttons, two rotaries (funny, the forum censors the word kn0b) that aren't even wired up, and under the handle is a rudder rocker control, analog even.
I figured I'd start with the throttle since MWO doesn't work the way I'd like with joystick. So I tore into it.


Here it is, fresh out of the package and ready for inspection. I found the controls extremely comfortable, and the button layout was tolerable (although I KNEW I'd want more buttons by the end of the project)



Here you can see the rudder rocker. It's mechanically connected to a sliding 100k potentiometer.



Two buttons (red one, and tiny black one at bottom left). The other nub there is a DPAD.


I opened her up and removed the PCB and the old scratchy pot for the throttle axis and replaced it with a Bourns hall pot. The usable range of the pot far exceeds the range that the throttle uses (about 60 degrees) so I will probably switch it out again for something more suitable in the future.


Here is the stock wiring from the handle, a rats nest for sure.



Here's the inside of the handle. You can see that those fancy kn0bs aren't even wired up to anything. We'll fix that later.. I decided to remove the PCB for the sliding switch (mode switch) and the big red button. I didn't like the click feel, since it just uses those cheesy tactile switches like you find in coffee makers and things like that.



This is the rudder PCB, which actually is designed quite well. All those wires won't be there much longer..

So on to the fun:


I grabbed my copper clad board and measured out something that would fit nicely in the base. I decided to use the MJoy16C-1 schematic and designed out a PCB that fit my cut board and spent a few days on and off working on it.



I must have gone through about 12 revisions of the board before I finally got it how I wanted it. Printed out with laserjet on photopaper and did the toner transfer method (gootee method) and then etched out the board.




This particular board has support for one HAT, one DPAD, and 8 buttons, and 4 10bit axis (throttle, rudder, knob X, knob Y)


I ran new wires to both HATs, and drilled some holes and mounted some fresh snap-action pushbutton switches (amazing).

After soldering all the wiring for the buttons and *****, I had to fish the wires into the base.



And then hooked them all up:


I reused the Atmega16 chip from another MJoy board, since I didn't include the ISP pins on this board for programming the chip.

A little more soldering and some screws, and we have this:


A relic of the PS2 days, now with USB! No drivers needed! This throttle used to connect to the joystick through a gameport style connector. Currently has 5 buttons on the handle, the HAT on the index finger, and the DPAD for the thumb. The two wheels have center detents and I suppose could be used for trim in a flight sim. The analog rudder works really great in MWO and so does the throttle. I will add 3 more buttons to the base at a later time. I also will post progress on the joystick when I get started on it (moar hall sensors! YEAH!) Thanks for looking, Mechwarriors!

[Foust]

Approved.

[Bastitch]

Nice work! I dream of being able to control WASD with analog controls! I'm a little jealous.

[Shamous13]

well done sir well done

[EuphoriaProject]

Thanks for the comments, guys. I've started some work on the joystick, and I'm pretty sure I've got all the buttons I'll ever need on one stick. Here we go:

Here is the stock controller


Here you can see all the stock buttons. A, B, Launch, Fire C, Trigger, pinky Trigger. Also the "DPAD" is actually a hat, and the "HAT" is actually an analog stick with tactile switch. So far, I count 4 axis and 7 buttons +4 for hat. Now, I really hate those buttons, they're mushy and feel like a game pad. We'll fix that...


Teh GUTS:

The stock PCB and the port that used to go to the throttle. We wont be needing any of this junk.


Disemboweling.



I removed the joystick grip from the gimbal, lets have a peek inside.


WHAT'S THIS? RUMBLE!!?? We won't be needing that either..




Here's the little snap action switch for the pinky trigger. It's a little...too soft.


This is the PCB for the buttons, hat, etc. I need that out of the way for now




That's better.


OK, there's no way these new snap action switches are going to fit in there with that PCB..





I pondered this for about 10 minutes, and then decided to mark out and cut the PCB. All of the circuitry I needed for the hat and analog stick were towards the top of the board. Mark a line, start cutting.


Ah, that's better. It fits.





A cut-away mockup:


With the controller side on:



More in the next post

[EuphoriaProject]

OK, now I really wanted to get rid of the terrible tactile switch on the Fire C button. I replaced it with another snap action switch and put the original button cover back on. It was a tight squeeze:





Now the trigger, it worked fine the way it was, but as always, I want MOAR. I pulled off that little switch from the pinky trigger and stacked it with the main trigger's identical switch.

DOUBLE. ACTION. TRIGGER. Squeeze a little, get a click, squeeze some more, get another click. It feels just right.


I had to replace the switch from the pinky trigger, so I added in another snap action switch there. Had to cut some plastic and glue in something to hold the switch, but it worked. Also added another snap action for the ring finger.





So after I mounted all the switches, I put the whole stick together to get an idea of clearances and looks and feel.





Everything feels great, fits my hand just nicely, and I LOVE the click of the snap action switches. Feels very military. That's all I've got for right now, until I wire up the switches and other stuff. I am torn between going with another Mjoy16-C1 board for this (10 bit analog axes) or trying to get a Leo Bodnar BU0836A, with 12 bit axes. I don't think mouse emulation would feel very good with only 10 bit resolution. Anyways, that's up in the air for now. Thanks for looking!

[Foust]

I'm going to have to build another stick....and it is all your fault.

Very well done.

Now where did I leave that old thrustmaster hotas...

[EuphoriaProject]

I don't have to time to write descriptions of every pic, but I thought you guys would like to see where this project went. I'll try to answer any questions you might have. Thanks for looking!












Fin.

[Foust]

Is that a even strain mod I see in there?

[EuphoriaProject]

I suppose it is lol. I ditched the spring and plate centering, i hate how stiff it felt. These springs are strong (from an old dot matrix printer), so it centers nicely while still being easy to move