19 replies to this topic

[kiniss]

Does anyone have experience with the new Noctua Industrial PPC fans? I'm looking at upgrading my AIO unit and I want some high pressure fans that can be quiet when I don't need a hurricane.

Can anyone give me a relative measurement of how loud they are? All of the reviews only show idle/max without saying what RPM the fans are going when they're measuring sound levels.

I'm okay with my computer sounding like a jet taking off when I'm gaming if that means my CPU says nicely chilled. But my computer is in my bedroom (I live in a bachelor suite) so when I'm not turning my computer into a wind tunnel I'd like to be able to sleep around it.

[Insects]

I've never used, but have seen threads on same question and they werent recommended. Industrial line isn't the best for noise.

[kiniss]

yeah. I know it will be louder than my current set of Noctuas but I'm going to be changing cases and going from 120s everywhere to 140s everywhere so I'll need to replace them all. I'm looking at the industrial since I've seen people saying "you sacrifice a little bit of silence for performance" and I'm wondering if "a little bit: is like 5Db or like 20 Db.

[kiniss]

Also there's the amusing coincidence that I can then say "I've filled my PC with PPCs".

[Insects]

The D14 and D15 are literally double heatsinks, so even better to fit that as well as PPCs

[kiniss]

I'm actually going to be going from an old Corsair H70 AIO to the H110 AIO. but I like your thinking. I like being able to directly vent heat as well as the space in the case relative to the heat taken away from the CPU is far better in an AIO than in an air cooler. I'm planning to use the 140mm 3000 on the heat sink in a push only config to save some space and then I'll have 4 intake fans that will be 140mm 2000 and one as an output fan.

Edited by kiniss, 12 March 2015 - 02:50 AM.

[Finkledbody]

I have not tried any of the noctua branded fans however. I have tried a few different brands with different fin designs in the 120-140mm range and I always come to the same conclusion. After 2000rpms, they tend to produce enough noise pollution that ones environment becomes negatively effected.

Buy one and give it a try. If you like it, pick up a few more.

Edited by Finkledbody, 12 March 2015 - 06:03 AM.

[xWiredx]

Honestly, I'd probably go with A14s if you want something quiet but decently effective and don't want to stick with the Corsair fans. I don't think SP140s exist, but if they did that would be my go-to.

I'm using the Corsair fans that came with my H105 and I have zero complaints. I have good temps and low noise.

[Catamount]

Noctua's 140mm fans are unique among static pressure fans in that they actually produce gobs of static pressure, and more than the 120mm variants, unlike say the Corsair SP140 or Cougar V14HP which both have lower pressure ratings than their 120mm variants, but doing that requires them to spin at 3000rpm, and produce 41dba of noise, which would probably compete with a modest sized jet engine.

I guess what I have to wonder is why you'd buy such a fan in order to turn it down, and probably lose all the static pressure, instead of just buying a static pressure fan designed to run quiet in the first place? Is there a benefit to having 10+ mmH2O that you won't make use of anyways instead of just the typical 1-2? I don't know if anyone here would disagree with me, but generally I've found that fans that are massively loud at high RPMs because no thought is given to noise generally don't suddenly become quiet at lower RPMs, just... less loud (unless you turn them practically off of course, at which point anything is quiet).


Edit: Wired is actually right, the quieter A14 with AAO does actually have a good setting that balances noise/pressure. I didn't realize Noctua made multiple A14 PPC fan models

Edited by Catamount, 12 March 2015 - 06:43 AM.

[kiniss]

Catamount, on 12 March 2015 - 06:35 AM, said:

I guess what I have to wonder is why you'd buy such a fan in order to turn it down, and probably lose all the static pressure, instead of just buying a static pressure fan designed to run quiet in the first place? Is there a benefit to having 10+ mmH2O that you won't make use of anyways instead of just the typical 1-2? I don't know if anyone here would disagree with me, but generally I've found that fans that are massively loud at high RPMs because no thought is given to noise generally don't suddenly become quiet at lower RPMs, just... less loud (unless you turn them practically off of course, at which point anything is quiet).

I know that 95% of the time I will probably be hanging out around 800-1500RPM. but having the ability to change jet streams when I want to cool my CPU at high use on OC is a nice thing. Also I'm only running push so that I can keep it thin, so I want to make absolutely sure that I have the pressure and flow to shove the western hemisphere through my heatsink when I need it.

That's actually why I like the noctua iPPCs is because they have put a fair amount of effort into making their fans relatively quiet even at 3000 RPM. They have a surprising amount of tech which doesn't look like much but makes a fairly significant difference in noise.

[kiniss]

xWiredx, on 12 March 2015 - 06:30 AM, said:

Honestly, I'd probably go with A14s if you want something quiet but decently effective and don't want to stick with the Corsair fans. I don't think SP140s exist, but if they did that would be my go-to.

I'm using the Corsair fans that came with my H105 and I have zero complaints. I have good temps and low noise.

I may give them a chance. I had a bad experience with the fans that came with my H70. They barely pushed air through the rad and made a hell of a racket.

[xWiredx]

Typically, when mounting a radiator you want either a pull or push-pull configuration, not a push configuration. You want to pull cold air through the radiator into the case. Yes, this may seem counter-intuitive, but it actually works better most of the time (most people have a separate exhaust fan or fans on the back or side of the case to keep warm air cycling out).

[kiniss]

xWiredx, on 12 March 2015 - 07:20 AM, said:

Typically, when mounting a radiator you want either a pull or push-pull configuration, not a push configuration. You want to pull cold air through the radiator into the case. Yes, this may seem counter-intuitive, but it actually works better most of the time (most people have a separate exhaust fan or fans on the back or side of the case to keep warm air cycling out).

I did that for a while but because of the amount of crap that's floating around the rad get clogged really fast. I try to avoid putting more hot air into my case considering the rest of the things that are air cooled in my case. And putting it in a push exhaust layout means that I can pre-attach the fans rather than fiddling around for 10-15 minutes trying to thread all the things together in the top of my case.

[Catamount]

On paper, intake vs exhaust should be a small difference in a properly ventilated case either way. Dumping 100W, at most, into your case is just not going to significantly impact ambient temps (ie your case ventilation can handle it), and a properly ventilated case shouldn't have air that's more than a few degrees above ambient anyways, and should be cool enough for your radiator, unless you're trying to cram a multi-GPU setup and all OCed components into a mid tower or something.

In practice I often find it hard to make airflow work with the radiator as an intake. Unless you can mount it somewhere besides top/rear somehow, where everything should be exhaust, or you've somehow made a rear/top to bottom front airflow (heat rises; that's hardly productive) you're just royally borking up the pressure distribution in your case, and so, the basic ability to cycle air.

Edited by Catamount, 12 March 2015 - 08:24 AM.

[darqsyde]

Why not skip the H110 and go for a NZXT X61?

[9erRed]

Greetings all,

The main site for Noctua Industrial PPC fans has an extensive list of all the specs for there fans.
- And some of the best on the market, if your ok with there 2 choices of colours.
- one of the few fan manufactures to use magnetic bearings for the industrial quality devices.

They may look rather plain, but there's heaps of tech built in, and one of the main reasons for there additional price.

9erRed

[Goose]

kiniss, on 12 March 2015 - 01:46 AM, said:

Does anyone have experience with the new Noctua Industrial PPC fans? I'm looking at upgrading my AIO unit and I want some high pressure fans that can be quiet when I don't need a hurricane.

Well: Can you control fan maps?

I'd replaced the NF-Ps on my NH-U12P SE1366 with a single NF-F when it came out … But then I started overclocking, and temps would climb after the fan redlined at 1500rpm.

So I wigged out and got the iPPC-3000.

'Cause the motor is completely different from the NF-F, you will find yourself wanting to keep the revs down below 1000~1200, or else you get this whine no other Noctua has; Get past ~1700, and you have quite the airflow whoosh. "Full Song" means Full Song …

How big an issue this is depends on things other then this fan, as, for example I can't get SpeedFan to talk to the CPU fan, but the bundled-with-da-mobo EasyTune is pretty simple:


I've had this thing down to two hundred seventy five rpm with the "right" settings, so I find it rather flexible …

I have no idea how you would go about choosing the 2000 model over the 3000: Buying the slower one and finding out your temps run away under IntelBurnTest just doesn't seem like a gambit, ya'know?

Also: Through an abnormal set of links, we can "see" the 12s make more presser then the 14s, as the 14s fallow the generalist NF-P designs …

[kiniss]

Good to hear that is can actually get fairly low RPMs. I've got a solid fan controller built into my motherboard.

I'm going with the 2000s to allow the lower starting RPM so that I'm not making as much of a racket. Knowing that I can run them that low, I might go with all 3000s to properly turn my computer into a jet turbine.

I'm getting the H110 meaning I'm using all 140mm fans. The 140 iPPC 3000 puts out about 4mm more static pressure than the 120 as well as a lot more air is pushed through.

[Goose]

D'oh: Wrong link; This was what I was thinking of …

[Goose]

I'm a derp: The "whoosh" doesn't really start up 'till ~2350, and is always an undertone to the motor whine …