91 replies to this topic

[Kissamies]

After playing a lot of SC, I have some plans to revisit this game again with the throttle. The CH control manager turned out not to be that hard to figure out after all and I got all the functions I want bound up and even have a mode switch to switch between TeamSpeak push to talk and the ingame one. The thumb stick is turn left and right, jump jets on up and MASC on down.

One problem, though. The throttle doesn't seem to go all the way to 100%. More like 99.5%. This is definitely not a calibration issue in my throttle. I have calibrated it, as it is recommended, to reach 100% just before the full extension. It also reaches 100% in other games without issues. No, I'm pretty sure it's something with the game itself. If only there was a setting to set the sensitivity above 100%. There is a slider for X and Y axes but not for throttle. I have tried to see if there is a cvar that I could put on a config, but no luck so far.

[mclang]

I tested your improved Absolute Aim script evilC, and it seems to work very well with my Warthog!

By trial and error and some vigorous joystick movements I narrowed down the MAX_TWIST_RATE for my HGN-733p. It seems that value of 45 is good for my mech that has max pitch/yaw rate of 167°/sec, arm lock off of course.

Using 50 resulted in minor drift but that wasn't too bad, around 3-5 degrees only.

I think I need to swap things around a bit though because I probably want to run different script for each of my mech so that I don't need to swap the values all the time. In other words I need to make script for each chassis that sets the right twist range and max rate values before calling the main "absolute aim" logic from some common file.

[evilC]

This script was designed for arm lock on. With arm lock off I don't think there is a max twist rate really - if your torso can twist at 10deg / sec and you issue mouse move commands that would result in a 20deg / sec twist, the torso will twist @ 10deg / sec and the arms will move by the remainder. Only if you issue a move so fast that the torso and arms cannot cope should you see drift with arm lock off.

The script could be improved to detect arm lock state and behave differently (ie allow faster movement) with arm lock off.

Regarding different setups for different mechs, there is nothing stopping you duplicating absolutejoy.ahk. For example, you could duplicate it and call one AbsoluteJoy-HGN733P.ahk, which was pre-configured for that mech.

Long-term, yeah, it would probably be smart to add a GUI to the script to make it configurable and allow storing settings as a profile.

[mclang]

Well, the script seems to work either way.

Without sensible limit I got some drift easily when twisting left and right to simulate armor rolling even when the arm lock was off. The drift wasn't bad though, only five degrees or less, and I was using Highlander, so I think faster twisting mechs do not need any limit.

I'm trying to learn playing with free arms to make using joystick easier, so I don't need arm lock detection. Hmm, or maybe it would be easier to aim with slower twist rate? But I'd like to finally get to playing and not spend all my free time improving absolute aiming script. Although it is you who have done most of the development, but still

[Mystere]

mclang, on 29 March 2016 - 12:07 PM, said:

By trial and error and some vigorous joystick movements I narrowed down the MAX_TWIST_RATE for my HGN-733p. It seems that value of 45 is good for my mech that has max pitch/yaw rate of 167°/sec, arm lock off of course.

I don't use AHK, so I don't know if it's even possible. But assuming it is, why not use the TRIM wheel on the Warthog control panel to dynamically set the value of MAX_TWIST_RATE?

[mclang]

I don't use TARGET because I need the things work also with my other, left hand joystick.

And I don't have Warthog throttle, just old MS Sidewinder Pro that I use as left hand joystick until I can buy T.Flight HOTAS 4 and use the throttle from it. But I could easily map some key combination to change the twist ratio using AutoHotkey.

Anyway, that is a good idea, maybe I eventually implement something like that.

[mclang]

About the new Thrustmaster T.Flight HOTAS 4

I haven't found proper review, so I'm wondering about the build quality... Is it any better than old HOTAS X? What I read though is that the deadzone of the new stick is much better than old one but that does not matter for me because I'm not going to use it.

So would it be better to buy HOTAS X and replace the circuit with Teensy++ or Leo Podnar chip than buy the more expensive HOTAS 4?

[evilC]

I doubt the Hotas 4's electronics or mechanism are any better - the deadzone was enforced with the circuitry, so they just changed the amount that it enforced. I have seen pictures from teardowns and they say the PCBs look basically the same.

A replacement board presents other possibilities...
You can upgrade the sensors to hall sensors. I started modding my Hotas X stick for hall sensors, but had to shelve the project for a bit.
You can also add extra buttons - I modded my Hotas X throttle to give it more buttons.

My preferred solution was to mount my leo board in a case instead of inside either of the stick or throttle. The case has an RS232 port on the side (A bit bigger than an old gameport connector) as these have enough pins to connect to all the axis and button pins on the leo board. I also put a diode matrix inside the case so I can just connect to all the button pins without needing a diode matrix in the joystick.
So basically I just rip out the circuit board from any joystick and wire up the axes and buttons to an RS232 connector, and I can run that stick thru the leo board.
You can then also use an RS232 splitter to connect up two devices, and only wire certain devices up to certain pins.

[mclang]

Okay, so I probably buy the old HOTAS X version then.

I'm not sure though that I understood how you are making the connections... Is the Leo Podnar still using USB to connect to computer and RS232 port is just for additional connections besides the throttle? I tought that I can just rip out the original throttle circuit board and wire buttons and lever into the leo podnar board and call it good?

[evilC]

Yes, if you want to mount the leo board inside throttle.
However, the leo board supports way more axes and buttons than the throttle has.

So what happens if you then want to convert the joystick? You need to buy another board.

So my suggestion was to not have any PCB inside the throttle, but instead to have the leo board in it's own case outside the throttle.
Then just connect up all the axes and buttons to an RS232 port that is mounted in the base of the throttle, and similarly wire up all the pins on the leo board to an RS232 port on it's case.

[mclang]

Hmm, now I understand you idea.

That diode matrix thing seem too much work for me right now though, I don't understand what it is. So I think for now when I get my Hotas X, I will first use it through the joystick and buy either Teensy++ or Leo Podnar later when I feel like doing the mod.

One question though: Are you really using 9 pin RS232 connector? Wondering this because the gameport connector that I have in my old Sidewinder Precision Pro is bigger that RS232... So maybe you meant old pareller port DB-25 connector?

[evilC]

The diode matrix is needed because of the way the electronics are designed - without one, the circuit cannot distinguish which buttons were pressed when you press lots of buttons together. The same kind of circuitry is present in keyboards and is the reason for "n-key rollover".
IIRC, with the Leo board, if you only want up to 8 buttons, you do not need a diode matrix.
So you could just start off by mounting it inside the throttle with no diode matrix, then if you wish to use the extra axes or buttons, move the board outside the throttle and add a diode matrix.

Yeah, by RS232 I meant a DB25