Battletech Tabletop - Starting An Army
#1
Posted 20 April 2016 - 06:30 AM
I wanted to start an army in Battletech, well, beginning with a lance and working my way up.
I read the Rulebook 4th Ed. and got my hands on a lot of technical readouts and fluff.
BUT, and this confuses me a lot, how do I buildmy own army to fight against friends? I come from Warhammerm Mordheim, Avatars Of War and other games like that, so I excpected to find an army list and points/cbills worth assigned to ever mech or sth like that.
Instead, I found some scenarios, where you have a fixed arym to play with, which is fine I guess. But as there are mech building chapters in the rulebook, there has to be a way of constructing your own army.
I assume my documents miss the army builder list or sth. like that, but maybe you cant tell me how you choose yoru army in Battletech. There is not one word in the rulebook about that, which is curious, but I found cbill worth, battleworth and other "tags" for the battlemechs in other books.
So, can you tell me what I am missing here?
#2
Posted 20 April 2016 - 07:05 AM
Well there are some random assignment tables if you need them.
But to wade into action you need say 8 Mechs? 4 for you and 4 for your friend - take what you like.
For example you think this new Stalker II looks great (and it does) - take it.
BT is not WYSIWYG - when you say this is a Stalker 3F so be it., when you say its a Omega - ok.
For Recordsheets:
http://www.solarisskunkwerks.com/
you can print them
the only think you have to watch for is the battle Value - although playing with into tech level - you can balance the games by tonnage either.
Just as an example:
I create an Assault Lance:
VTR-9B (i know its a Lu-Wei Bing)
STK-3Falthough a Stalker II
TDR-5S
HBK-4G
Non of those miniatures is the official miniature for this mech - but this doesn't matter.
BV: makes 5313 BV
You just need an opposing force of the same value.
Edited by Karl Streiger, 20 April 2016 - 07:06 AM.
#3
Posted 21 April 2016 - 06:14 AM
Firstly, and right off the bat, Battletech can be used in any number of ways, but it's just as often played as a pickup game as it is an RPG-styled campaign. As such, there's a lot less emphasis on "Git Gud", much more emphasis on enjoying the lore and feel of each faction. Competitiveness is often a lot lower than in other games, as players just enjoy mashing some robots together and playing fights out on the battlefield that "Feel" like the lore.
I should let you know that the 4th edition rulebook is about 20 years out of date now. The latest edition (Total Warfare) has been operating for the past ten years. While you don't have to run out and buy the latest rulebook ASAP, there have been a significant number of changes to how things play. The core rulebook isn't as intuitively laid-out as I'd like, but pretty much every rule is a huge improvement to how it was in the old editions.
Similar to 40K and other titles, there IS a points system called BV. The most modern version is called BV2, and you can easily find these in modern publications. Early Battletech relied on tonnage for balance, and that, while easy, was never well balanced. Battle Value is the way that matches are balanced. The core rulebook suggests in the creating scenarios section, that you build a force that costs about 4000 to 6000 points for a 4-unit lance. You might find this number a bit high if you're using low-tech or light units, and you might find it a bit constrictive if you use heavy, expensive units. On average, a low-tech medium tends to be about 1200 BV. A stock Atlas AS7-D in the 1800s, and a stock Locust about 400. You can tweak these numbers by improving or worsening the MechWarrior inside.
What you won't find is what HQ units you can bring, or how many of a certain type of unit that you can bring. That's because Battletech legit just doesn't care. If you want to bring just tanks, Some mechs and some helicopters? Purely mechs? Absolutely no mechs? It's all good. All you need to do is make sure that you and your opponent have roughly the same BV, and maybe the same number of units (Don't be a jerk and bring nothing but conventional foot infantry at 50 BV a piece. No LGS has hours long enough to allow for the first turn to pass in a 4000 BV game).
For how you build a force? Personally, I'd highly suggest that you don't buy minis right away. You might end up not liking them. Print out some canon record sheets for some mechs, and try them out in a fight (If you don't have it already, Solaris Skunkwerks is a fantastic tool to use for record sheets) It will allow you to "Try before you buy". If you end up liking firestarters in MWO but hating them in Tabletop, you'd feel pretty silly if you stuck yourself with one from the get go. Afterwards, keep in mind that while you best support the franchise by keeping up with the latest books, there are a lot of players who refuse to budge from playing the basic boxed set experience. Unless you choose to play clan, I'd suggest buying some of the old (ugly) 80s miniatures to start. The good thing about them is that there are always new "Variants" made for every era that help to keep those old minis on a level playing field with the new hotness. From there, get what you like.
As far as keeping to what each faction has, you can use the newest way to discover which faction has what (http://www.masterunitlist.info/) or you can use the older, more traditional method of buying Technical Readouts books, which covers lore for each of the 'mechs from a given era. Keep in mind that books are sorted not by faction, but by year in the fiction. They make for fantastic bathroom readers though, let me tell you. Pouring through the TROs, as they're called, should give insight into what 'mechs fit with which faction. Another way I use is finding an era relevant product with a RAT/RUT (Random Assignment Table / Random unit Table), and look at the mechs available from each weight class.
And for lore on each faction / regiment in the setting. If you want to choose your force based on paint job first, you can check out www.camospecs.com to find the canon paint jobs of various forces in the lore, as well as to check out what the minis look like for each design. If you want to read up on the actual regiments and then find out their paint jobs afterwards, your best bet is to look into the Field Manuals series for the specific factions. Of course, you're also free to just pick what you like, paint them as you like, and so on. Factions and minis aren't hard-coded as to what you can take. It's like being able to have space marines, harlequins, and a carnifex in the same army. Lore fans appreciate it when you stick to the appropriate faction, as it helps with their own immersion, but since you're just getting started, I wouldn't fret about lore accuracy too much.
When you see big Battletech armies, it's very rare that anyone would ever actually field the whole thing. Most games are played as somewhere between 4 on 4 and 12 on 12. You might want to try making a force of 12 mechs, but that would be mostly to give you the flexibility to swap them around to meet your opponent, not a requirement.
Finally, if you're using the 4th edition, it was published when the game was only 10 years old. There was less to buy or wrap your head around. The new intoductory boxed set does a better job of explaining how to get started on things, and it comes with 24 semi-decent plastic minis from the original era, plus a high-quality plastic (needs assembly) Battlemaster and Timberwolf. If you're not able to drop the cash on the new introbox, Catalyst is also releasing "Alpha Strike" lance packs with plastic minis inside. Although they're labeled "Alpha Strike", it's pretty much just a means to sell plastic minis without going through the current rights holders to the pewter line. You can use the cards included for their new simplified game, Alpha Strike, or ignore them like many of us do, and use the minis like any other Battletech mini for games of Battletech.
Edited by ice trey, 21 April 2016 - 06:22 AM.
#4
Posted 21 April 2016 - 08:36 AM
I got most of my books in kind of a garage sale so its not easy to determine which are new or upt to date and which are not.
I have read about Level 1-3 rules now, and git the "Maximum Tech" and "Master Rules" books, are they kind of up to date?
The webiste http://www.masterunitlist.info/ is great to build units and lances, thanks for the hint. And I guess I will start with 4 mechs and slowly build the "army" up. It is really kind of weird to change from warhammer and flames of war to Battletech, as its a really different approach. i will see that I get my hands on some more lore books to get it right (and great bathromm books are always appreciatet)
As for the minis, I don´t have a problem dropping money on some minis to start with, but I got used to building my own (greenstuff, fimo and milliput) and I planed on using the great MWO models as a resource.
Do you know the scale of the minis used for tabletop? I would like to put them at least half way into scale, if I put in the work to model one or two
Andone question to the battlefields: Are they scaled (warhammer and flames of war provide rough estimates how big a battlefield should be in inch), or is every map pretty much different?
And are all games played on "flat" printed maps? I have seen some different gaming tables for Alpha Strike I think
Your input is much appreciatet !
#5
Posted 21 April 2016 - 10:01 PM
Krellshand, on 21 April 2016 - 08:36 AM, said:
I got most of my books in kind of a garage sale so its not easy to determine which are new or upt to date and which are not.
I have read about Level 1-3 rules now, and git the "Maximum Tech" and "Master Rules" books, are they kind of up to date?
The webiste http://www.masterunitlist.info/ is great to build units and lances, thanks for the hint. And I guess I will start with 4 mechs and slowly build the "army" up. It is really kind of weird to change from warhammer and flames of war to Battletech, as its a really different approach. i will see that I get my hands on some more lore books to get it right (and great bathromm books are always appreciatet)
As for the minis, I don´t have a problem dropping money on some minis to start with, but I got used to building my own (greenstuff, fimo and milliput) and I planed on using the great MWO models as a resource.
Do you know the scale of the minis used for tabletop? I would like to put them at least half way into scale, if I put in the work to model one or two
Andone question to the battlefields: Are they scaled (warhammer and flames of war provide rough estimates how big a battlefield should be in inch), or is every map pretty much different?
And are all games played on "flat" printed maps? I have seen some different gaming tables for Alpha Strike I think
Your input is much appreciatet !
Okie dokie. So you know, while 40K/Flames of War are very clearly made to be miniatures games for pickup games at an LGS, BattleTech is, as you can tell, a beast of a very different nature. Early on, the emphasis on "Campaign games" between players and a GM took hold, though it's just as good at Player Vs Player pick up games and scenario games. Player vs Player campaigns, though... it's not currently that well supported, sadly. There aren't any GM-less systems that you can use out-of-the-box for campaign games.
Also, timeline progression works out best for the game, because much of the universe is based on "Salvage" and taking the spoils of war that, while the Draconis Combine might be the chief user of the Dragon, it wouldn't be completely impossible to find one in the Free Worlds League, for example. Further, with "Building a mercenary unit" being a huge draw and often the main theme for campaign games, there aren't really any borders - besides cash - to what units you can take.
As far as "Obsolescence", Nothing is stopping you from playing with old books at home, but some pretty major gameplay changes happened in 2006 with the release of Total Warfare. The game is fundamentally the same as it's always been, but some of the ways the rules apply have changed. An example being "Partial Cover". Old rules had anything with partial cover recieve +3 TN (Defensive modifier), but required that you use the Punches table rather than the full body table. The new edition does away with that, instead only gives you a +1 modifier, but continues using the full-body hit location tables, and negating any hits to the legs that result. In the old edition, taking partial cover meant that you went from a 1/36 chance of any hit being a head hit to a 1/6 chance. Maybe worth it when playing against someone with gunnery 4, but against good pilots you actually increase your chance of dying by hugging hills. The new edition fixed this problem.
You can see what I mean, that the rules changes are small tweaks, but they change the gameplay rather dramatically. Battletech makes heavy use of terrain and it's modifiers, and these rules can make massive differences based on how you play, what you bring, etc.
For the record, "Level 1, Level 2" etc has been done away with. Terms that replace them are "Introductory", "Tournament", "Advanced" and "Experimental". Level 1 pretty much lines up with Introductory, and can be played with just the intro box rules. Level 2 with "Tournament" and requires buying the rulebook. Anything high-tech or clan makes it's way into this level. Level three can be said to be the later two rules. "Advanced" meaning that it's low-enough tech to not be ultra-rare, it's just that they moved it out of the core rules because the mechanics are more complex or might slow down gameplay, or just simply because it's not used enough to devote room in the core rulebook. "Experimental" meaning tech that isn't/can't be mass produced that you would rarely see on the battlefield.
Master Rules was a well laid out book, and is an intuitive read, but again, many of the rules have since changed. It's totally playable, but keep in mind that if you play against someone keeping up with the rules, you might find changes in the rules that catch you off guard. By all means though, keep the BMR. Not only is it a pretty book for B&W print, but it tends to condense the existing rules to what players usually use now. It's also handy to keep around to see how the rules have changed over the years.
Miniatures Scale: Z-Scale / 1:285 / 6mm. Almost everything BattleTech can be bought from Ironwind Miniatures for North America, or Ral Partha for the EU. The recent Alpha Strike boxes sell pre-made 3025 lances in plastic for about... I think it was $20 or so? The introbox comes with a good 24 plastics (Not GW quality, mind. Think GW starter boxes compared to their normal figures). However, the legit pewter minis range from between $10-16 each, and sometimes are sold as pre-made lancepacks (especially through the "Online exclusives" section) for $30 or so. However, keep in mind that with Battletech, WYSIWYG doesn't really apply. The record sheets (Papers with stats to track damage and ammo, etc) are what needs to be legit, but you aren't obliged to have the exact mini, or even a battletech mini for that matter. So long as the forward facing is clear, you're good. One thing you might notice is that old miniatures are considerably smaller than new miniatures. Scale Creep is a real thing. The sculptors seem to have chosen that in order to increase detail and ease of sculpting, they should make minis bigger. Scale creep won't affect anything except making it difficult to keep two units adjacent to each other on the mapsheets, but you might notice it with minis rules, where you're actually looking at miniatures to figure out LOS.
There are some people who like using the figures from the old clix game from the mid 2000s, since you can get them as lots for cheap off of second hand markets. However, compatability becomes an issue. At N-Scale, they're too big to play against normal Battletech miniatures in miniatures rules, and they are too big to fit inside standard Battletech hexes. Maybe it'd work on heroscape tiles, but the scale difference is clear. Many players use the infantry tokens from clix, though, as they're small enough to fit. I opted for the official infantry, though. Those official things are downright tiny at 6mm tall, but you get a lot in a blister.
Battletech Hexmaps are scaled at 30-meters per hex and are properly scaled with each other, meaning you can mix and match the terrain as you please, or randomly. It's nice because random rolling means that you're not playing "Terrain chess" with your opponent before a match, and often feels more organic because of it.
As far as hexes: Battletech was made as a hex-based game. The lions' share of players still prefer to use hex maps for gameplay. there are a number of benefits, like being able to random-roll up maps, not needing measuring tape, and best of all, portability. Being a giant robot game and not an infantry skirmish game like most other titles, most of the "Terrain" available at various LGS'es are made at a much different scale, and it can look silly to have mechs walking past 6-storey tall shipping crates, and 8-storey tall outhouses. There have almost always been miniatures rules, however, and while Alpha Strike is made with miniatures rules (Hexless) in mind, Battletech does still have support for miniatures rules. I think that there should still be a section on it in BMR, but if not, there are definitely products for minis-rules support. Usually it just involves saying "So many inches per hex", 1" or 2" is the most common listing, but for to-scale gameplay, you'd need 4" or so, which would make your table feel really small, really fast. The BMR edition of the rules had a "Miniatures Rules" rulebook published, but the most modern version of miniatures rules for standard Battletech can be found in Strategic Ops. If it sounds like a hastle, just remember that it's not the way the game was "Meant" to be played, but rather is a supplement for those people who want to play that way and have official rules to back it up. At some cons, you might see people using different methods. One popular way of doing things is buying old Heroscape tiles (Heroscape was a simple game for children that bombed, but the plastic hexes made for it proved to outlive the game by leaps and bounds) from the second hand market. There are also some fan-sellers who've started selling fan-made maps using satellite images, and are often very beautiful. Both of these options look great, but are not made or supported by Catalyst, so you'll have to go hunting.
Edited by ice trey, 21 April 2016 - 10:06 PM.
#6
Posted 25 April 2016 - 01:19 AM
I got my hand on Total Warfare and I am reading the Cappelan Federation book right now, decided to build a lance from this house first. One thing bugs me tho - the scaling of the game.
1 hex (3.175cm) is ~30m in "real life", which equals roughly a 1:945 Scale
Yet, an old Vulture I have siting around here, is nearly 4cm high, which would equal 38m in real life,which is way to big.
It should stand roughly 14-15m high, which would make the mini 5,2cm high in Z Scale.
Z Scale on the other hand would equal a hex size of ~10cm so I am pretty confused.
Hex is scaled 1:944
The Mini is scaled 1:375 (or even 1:300, which would bring it nearly to Z Scale if its meant to be 12m high)
Z Scale is 1:286
So, is it just the hex scale that is off with the 30m scale? Or is this meant to be to make the game managable in ascpet of the size of the playing field you would need then?
Edited by Krellshand, 25 April 2016 - 01:20 AM.
#7
Posted 25 April 2016 - 01:29 AM
A good idea about the size is the price...its a price per gramm. My 16$ 80t Warlord - is twice as big as my 9$ Atlas - first sculpt. Newer Mechs seem to have almost the same price/weight so the size is ok
The HEX-Map is not scaled its a abstract measurement unit, as long as you keep playing on card maps everything is fine.
Things will become interesting as soon as you want to play miniature table top without hex maps.... in this case you use real LOS but movement is still measured by the size of a hex base - inch movement instead of hex movement.
Edited by Karl Streiger, 25 April 2016 - 01:30 AM.
#8
Posted 25 April 2016 - 03:33 AM
#9
Posted 25 April 2016 - 06:17 AM
Krellshand, on 25 April 2016 - 01:19 AM, said:
Yes.
Because at 4" per hex, mechs would be running off the field, and medium lasers would be shooting the whole way across the table.
If the mechs were shrunk to compensate for the size of the hexes, they'd be the size of an M&M.
Hexmaps are abbreviations that allow for you to carry pretty much any terrain you can think of, along with all your necessary record sheets and rulebooks, in a single back pack. Ease of use, modularity, and portability are their best features. They also negate the need for WYSIWYG, as on hexes, you can use anything so long as it fits in the hex and has a clear front facing. Paper standies are my old go-to, especially for the RPG where I use randomization tables for what the players might face, and I may not have said minis. Considering that most LGSes don't carry 6mm scale terrain and put all their chips on 28mm, I don't take it as a loss.
...but even most miniatures gameplay cuts the scales on everything down by half or more, because like said earlier, 4" per unit of distance is really, REALLY big. It's most often suggested you use 1" or 2" per unit for things to not get crazy.
Edited by ice trey, 25 April 2016 - 06:22 AM.
#10
Posted 26 April 2016 - 11:57 AM
Krellshand, on 25 April 2016 - 01:19 AM, said:
As others have mentioned, the scales of miniatures is different between the hex-map, mechs, other vehicles and even sometimes between one model of a mech and a different model of what is the same mech ( see battlemaster and timberwolf below).
The game was not designed profit on miniature sales as a goal (unlike some other companies). As a result, the quality and scale differs drastically sometimes.If you are into modeling or dioramas, be prepared for a bit more work than other wargaming hobbies if you want "true scale".
Krellshand, on 21 April 2016 - 08:36 AM, said:
www.camospecs.com is a great resource for see others minis, although I don't know how much custom modeling has been posted, there are a few "kit-bashers".
From Left to Right:
- Timberwolf (metal, probably an old Ironwind model out of production)
- Timberwolf (plastic, from Catalyst Game Labs )
- Battlemaster (plastic, from FASA 3rd edition box set which is out of production)
- Battlemaster (plastic, new Catalyst Game Labs model).
Edited by SilentScreamer, 26 April 2016 - 12:43 PM.
#11
Posted 26 April 2016 - 12:31 PM
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