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3D-Printed Mechwarrior Mechs


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#21 LordNothing

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Posted 06 May 2016 - 05:43 PM

View PostAfuldan McKronik, on 06 May 2016 - 05:29 PM, said:

Hmm. Inable to get a good mini primer to stick? Different material than a plastic mini I would guess... that sucks. I would buy multiple models of each variant of each mech.


my bed upgrade came with a big kapton strip to print on, i find that so long as the bed is heated to 50c and give it a good wipe down with rubbing alcohol, things stick to it pretty well. if you print a tall slender model, eventually the print head can get enough leverage to topple the model if by chance the print head sticks or gets hung up on anything. but ive only seen that happen once, and it was my fault because the base polygons weren't flat and about only half of the surface was actually contacting the bed. if you get past the second or third layer, you are usually home free.

i havent tried any primers yet, i was thinking of giving it a few clear cotes, sanding each time should work. but then again i really havent printed anything that needed finishing. i dont really have any interest in tabletop.

Edited by LordNothing, 06 May 2016 - 05:56 PM.


#22 Mcgral18

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Posted 06 May 2016 - 05:45 PM

Using this method, people have gotten the models to print (after exporting and stuff)
I've only used it to compare scale, but it has other uses.

http://mwomercs.com/...ing-pgis-mechs/


There is some tinkering involved, however.

Edited by Mcgral18, 06 May 2016 - 05:45 PM.


#23 Xenon Codex

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Posted 06 May 2016 - 05:51 PM

Make your own Gold Mech, just $600/cm^3:
http://www.shapeways.../materials/gold

Or aluminum for you cheap folks:
http://www.shapeways...erials/aluminum

#24 Afuldan McKronik

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Posted 06 May 2016 - 06:07 PM

View PostLordNothing, on 06 May 2016 - 05:43 PM, said:


my bed upgrade came with a big kapton strip to print on, i find that so long as the bed is heated to 50c and give it a good wipe down with rubbing alcohol, things stick to it pretty well. if you print a tall slender model, eventually the print head can get enough leverage to topple the model if by chance the print head sticks or gets hung up on anything. but ive only seen that happen once, and it was my fault because the base polygons weren't flat and about only half of the surface was actually contacting the bed. if you get past the second or third layer, you are usually home free.

i havent tried any primers yet, i was thinking of giving it a few clear cotes, sanding each time should work. but then again i really havent printed anything that needed finishing. i dont really have any interest in tabletop.


Ah. I am a Warhammer Fantasy mini painter. Have you tried a Citadel Games primer coat? That stuff sticks to the plastic, pewter and metal models they have.





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