32 replies to this topic

[Graives]

LoL. btw, I never heard whether you tried the new PSU on the old Dell Mboard. If you're willing to risk it that is.

[Bishop Steiner]

Blood Crow, on 21 July 2012 - 09:51 PM, said:

Maybe... have you been wearing wool socks and shuffling around the carpet all day?

nope, barefoot and preg.... wait.... just barefoot. And using a glass work table, while wearing anti static bands on both risks, with an anti static mat under my components.

Graives, on 21 July 2012 - 09:52 PM, said:

LoL. btw, I never heard whether you tried the new PSU on the old Dell Mboard. If you're willing to risk it that is.

Yep. I tried both the Capstone 650 and the Coolmasterr 500 on it. Neither did more than flicker for about .5 second.

[Graives]

Another silly question, the little switch in the back of the PSU, what's it set at for each unit?

EDIT: BTW, if your anti static wrist straps are being clipped onto the case, that wont really do anything to help you. Needs to be a grounded object and computer cases themselves aren't actually grounded these days.

EDIT 2: The Dell still work after trying the PSU's on it?

EDIT 3: Just finished skimming through the manual, that looks like a srsbzns Mboard you got there.

My final thoughts, you gave it the good old college try. If you bought the PSU's locally, take them back and ask for them to be tested, and maybe ask the IT about the specific PSU's compatibility with your Mboard AND Vid Card. I remember I had a Vid Card issue and wasted a PSU because of it.

Edited by Graives, 21 July 2012 - 10:18 PM.

[Bishop Steiner]

Graives, on 21 July 2012 - 10:04 PM, said:

Another silly question, the little switch in the back of the PSU, what's it set at for each unit?

EDIT: BTW, if your anti static wrist straps are being clipped onto the case, that wont really do anything to help you. Needs to be a grounded object and computer cases themselves aren't actually grounded these days.

EDIT 2: The Dell still work after trying the PSU's on it?

EDIT 3: Just finished skimming through the manual, that looks like a srsbzns Mboard you got there.

My final thoughts, you gave it the good old college try. If you bought the PSU's locally, take them back and ask for them to be tested, and maybe ask the IT about the specific PSU's compatibility with your Mboard AND Vid Card. I remember I had a Vid Card issue and wasted a PSU because of it.

.......ehhhh what little switch? the 115/230 switch? 115.

while i have not reconnected it to a monitor or anything yet, seems to fire up fine. as long as i use the old cheapy psu.

and yeah, vulpus seems to recommend some good buttkicking stuff... just gottta figure out what ain't working.

[Bishop Steiner]

well, many thanks to all who have posted. any other ideas, please, keep em coming!

and for those who want something different, here is a fan art post of mine...
http://mwomercs.com/...art-re-designs/

[Bishop Steiner]

and with that, i am off for the night. thanks again!

[Xyberviri]

If a system doesn't POST its either the cpu or the mobo. The only thing you need to boot is a mobo, cpu, ram and psu. you dont need the ram if you want to get a no ram error, and you dont need video either.

But like i said if you dont get any post error with just the mobo, cpu and psu then its either the mobo or the psu, if it doesn't turn on, its either the mobo or PSU since thats all that is needed to turn on.

you can also disconnect the cables from the case to motherboard that turn it on/off and the lights, use a screw driver to try and turn on your system.

if that works its your case.

I had this rare issue where my system would randomly restart, i disconnected the restart button and the problem went away, the case was 5 years old though.

Edited by Xyberviri, 21 July 2012 - 11:31 PM.

[sumdumfu]

ok yeah need to know exactly what happens when you hit the power button. do fans turn on/do lights blink/do sounds beep? or is it just a cold start and literally nothing happens?

without knowing more, i see no one's really mentioned that it could also be a bad CPU. it won't POST if the CPU is bad, and come to think of it, a power-on then fizzle does sound like what would happen with a bad CPU. i would take it out and make sure you don't have any bent pins on the underside. when i say bent i mean they all have to be arrow straight and not leaning in the slightest bit that your eye can discern. if one is, take your finest needle-nose pliers (or even tweezers) and ever, EVER so gently try to bend it straight. if you don't feel comfortable doing that you could try returning it saying it came with bent pins.

update plz!

[sumdumfu]

another possibility, though you might have tried this (sorta skimmed the rest of the thread). when you opened the mobo box, did the CPU connector have half the slots covered? mine did, and as it turns out, even though it had an 8 slot CPU power connector, it worked with the 4 pin connector from the PSU.

[Oderint dum Metuant]

This is what happens when you buy an Asrock motherboard



















........(JOKE!)

Similar story happened to my buddies computer some years back, i still don't particularly understand it today, but i'll keep it short and simpleish, something somewhere caused an issue with the PSU that ended up damaging the board, everytime we replaced the PSU the same thing as your describing happened.
Change the board and PSU and everything worked, so my personal guess is the original PSU has damaged the board, which in turn is now ruining each PSU in turn.

Now when we sent the various bits of kit back fairly puzzled we got a response that somehow the polarity of the PSU was reversed and they think it was a feedback cycle that was causing the issue.
Made no sense to me then, or now, and even still you can find very little about it via google.

*shrug*

I would RMA the board and PSU and replace both at the same time, and i would bet your problem disappears.

[Eseven]

To test your power supply with out being connected to your motherboard.

1. Buy the cheapest multimeter you can find from Radio Shack, hardware store, or auto supply.
2. Set the multimeter to DC volts and a range that will read 12 volts.
3. Use a paper clip or a small piece of wire and insert it into the green wire and any black wire on the 24 pin connector. This will turn on the power supply.
4. Connect the black lead from the multimeter to any of the common (ground) leads.
5. Using the red lead from the multimeter check the pins for the correct voltages in the chart below.
ATX 24 pin 12V Power Connector Pinout (ATX v2.2)
Pin Name Color Description
1 +3.3V Orange +3.3 VDC
2 +3.3V Orange +3.3 VDC
3 COM Black Ground
4 +5V Red +5 VDC
5 COM Black Ground
6 +5V Red +5 VDC
7 COM Black Ground
8 PWR_ON Gray Power Good
9 +5VSB Purple +5 VDC Standby
10 +12V1 Yellow +12 VDC
11 +12V1 Yellow +12 VDC
12 +3.3V Orange +3.3 VDC
13 +3.3V Orange +3.3 VDC
14 -12V Blue -12 VDC
15 COM Black Ground
16 PS_ON Green Power Supply On
17 COM Black Ground
18 COM Black Ground
19 COM Black Ground
20 NC White -5 VDC (Optional - Removed in ATX12V v2.01)
21 +5V Red +5 VDC
22 +5V Red +5 VDC
23 +5V Red +5 VDC
24 COM Black Ground

If the voltages are correct your power supply is good.

Take your motherboard and set it on the table and plug in the 24 pin connector and the 8 pin connector from the power supply. Both have to be plugged in for the motherboard to function. Install one stick of memory in the first slot closest to the cpu. Install the video card in the first PCIE 2.0 slot closest to the CPU. Be sure to plug in two 6 pin connectors from the power supply to the video card. Plug in your monitor and attack the video cable from your video card to the monitor. If your motherboard came with a speaker plug it into the motherboard. Attach keyboard and mouse. Turn on you power supply and start the computer. The little speaker should beep and the first thing to display on the monitor should be your video card bios information. If there is no beep your computer will not boot. Try the memory in each of the memory slots also. One of them could be bad. Watch the debug LEDs when booting up. The error codes will be in your manual.

Edited by Eseven, 22 July 2012 - 01:54 AM.

[Graives]

DV McKenna, on 22 July 2012 - 01:26 AM, said:

Similar story happened to my buddies computer some years back, i still don't particularly understand it today, but i'll keep it short and simpleish, something somewhere caused an issue with the PSU that ended up damaging the board, everytime we replaced the PSU the same thing as your describing happened.
Change the board and PSU and everything worked, so my personal guess is the original PSU has damaged the board, which in turn is now ruining each PSU in turn.

Now when we sent the various bits of kit back fairly puzzled we got a response that somehow the polarity of the PSU was reversed and they think it was a feedback cycle that was causing the issue.
Made no sense to me then, or now, and even still you can find very little about it via google.

*shrug*

I would RMA the board and PSU and replace both at the same time, and i would bet your problem disappears.

Now that I think about it, My lil'sis had the same exact thing happen when she built her first gaming rig. Totally forgot about that!

Also, Eseven sounds like he knows what he's talking about, I'd also listen to him.

[Bishop Steiner]

Eseven, on 22 July 2012 - 01:34 AM, said:

To test your power supply with out being connected to your motherboard.

1. Buy the cheapest multimeter you can find from Radio Shack, hardware store, or auto supply.
2. Set the multimeter to DC volts and a range that will read 12 volts.
3. Use a paper clip or a small piece of wire and insert it into the green wire and any black wire on the 24 pin connector. This will turn on the power supply.
4. Connect the black lead from the multimeter to any of the common (ground) leads.
5. Using the red lead from the multimeter check the pins for the correct voltages in the chart below.
ATX 24 pin 12V Power Connector Pinout (ATX v2.2)
Pin Name Color Description
1 +3.3V Orange +3.3 VDC
2 +3.3V Orange +3.3 VDC
3 COM Black Ground
4 +5V Red +5 VDC
5 COM Black Ground
6 +5V Red +5 VDC
7 COM Black Ground
8 PWR_ON Gray Power Good
9 +5VSB Purple +5 VDC Standby
10 +12V1 Yellow +12 VDC
11 +12V1 Yellow +12 VDC
12 +3.3V Orange +3.3 VDC
13 +3.3V Orange +3.3 VDC
14 -12V Blue -12 VDC
15 COM Black Ground
16 PS_ON Green Power Supply On
17 COM Black Ground
18 COM Black Ground
19 COM Black Ground
20 NC White -5 VDC (Optional - Removed in ATX12V v2.01)
21 +5V Red +5 VDC
22 +5V Red +5 VDC
23 +5V Red +5 VDC
24 COM Black Ground

If the voltages are correct your power supply is good.

Take your motherboard and set it on the table and plug in the 24 pin connector and the 8 pin connector from the power supply. Both have to be plugged in for the motherboard to function. Install one stick of memory in the first slot closest to the cpu. Install the video card in the first PCIE 2.0 slot closest to the CPU. Be sure to plug in two 6 pin connectors from the power supply to the video card. Plug in your monitor and attack the video cable from your video card to the monitor. If your motherboard came with a speaker plug it into the motherboard. Attach keyboard and mouse. Turn on you power supply and start the computer. The little speaker should beep and the first thing to display on the monitor should be your video card bios information. If there is no beep your computer will not boot. Try the memory in each of the memory slots also. One of them could be bad. Watch the debug LEDs when booting up. The error codes will be in your manual.

great exceptt sorta outta money right now. I think I am just gonna RMA the PSU, CPU and MoBo, and let Newegg sort it out.