29 replies to this topic

[Ouster]

I don't think the alcohol percentage doesn’t real matters too much the advantage to alcohol is it dries fast contains no contaminated and it a little bit of a solvent. In pinch you can clean electronics with water if you had to you just need to make sure it’s all dried off and you didn’t leave a deposit or film.

That exhausts set up sound fine either way. I never played around with a side fan so I am not sure what the best way to use though is. The fans certainly don’t have to be as high as 2-1 but that was the way I set it up mine because I had 3 120cfm fans from silenx. The reason negative pressure is good is because the air moves more freely throughout the case and it encounter less resistant going through the cooling fins. Which way do you have the fan on the cooler set to blow? Generally you want to blow through the cooler in a direction that will quickly exhaust so you don’t keep too much heat in the case.

I always used MX-2 these days as well not vary familiar with GELID Solutions GC-Extreme Thermal Compound. Used to be an AS5 fan but MX-2 works better for me.

They key with thermal past is how you apply it. You want to apply some to the heat sink and then wipe it off this help fill all the smaller crevices on the heatsink and make sure you have fewer gaps and better contact with the heat spreader. This is especially important if the heat sink does not have a mirror smooth finish. And it will help fill gaps between the heat pipes and the edges of the cooler block. The duller looking the heat sink surface the darker the sheen that should be left. Then apply it to the top of the processer and spread it out. You want it to be as thin as you can get it but you don't want to see the heat sink. With softer compounds you can leave a little more on. It better to error on the side of a little extra then to let it get to thin and risk having a air gap. I always spread the past with the side of a qui tip. And use that to create a smooth consistent layer so there won’t be any air pockets but that should be a problem if it not as thick as AS5.

Sounds like you starting to get better temperatures you might still have trouble if you house got over 100 degrees but that will give you some more breathing room.

I found these chart here http://www.frostytec...eid=2659&page=4 they indicate you should get a temp on or around 14-19C above you mobo temp readings depending on your fan settings.

[Aznpersuasion89]

iceboss, on 12 August 2012 - 12:39 AM, said:

From where the fresh air is supposed to enter?

But try Linpack from OCCT test, it heats the CPUs all cores much better :-).

i did the linepack test and it doesnt heat up as much as the prime95 large fft stress test does. and i have 2 120mm intake fans at the front of the case. its the rosewill future case.

Ouster, on 12 August 2012 - 02:28 AM, said:

I don't think the alcohol percentage doesn’t real matters too much the advantage to alcohol is it dries fast contains no contaminated and it a little bit of a solvent. In pinch you can clean electronics with water if you had to you just need to make sure it’s all dried off and you didn’t leave a deposit or film.


They key with thermal past is how you apply it. You want to apply some to the heat sink and then wipe it off this help fill all the smaller crevices on the heatsink and make sure you have fewer gaps and better contact with the heat spreader. This is especially important if the heat sink does not have a mirror smooth finish. And it will help fill gaps between the heat pipes and the edges of the cooler block. The duller looking the heat sink surface the darker the sheen that should be left. Then apply it to the top of the processer and spread it out. You want it to be as thin as you can get it but you don't want to see the heat sink. With softer compounds you can leave a little more on. It better to error on the side of a little extra then to let it get to thin and risk having a air gap. I always spread the past with the side of a qui tip. And use that to create a smooth consistent layer so there won’t be any air pockets but that should be a problem if it not as thick as AS5.

Sounds like you starting to get better temperatures you might still have trouble if you house got over 100 degrees but that will give you some more breathing room.

I found these chart here http://www.frostytec...eid=2659&page=4 they indicate you should get a temp on or around 14-19C above you mobo temp readings depending on your fan settings.

ya thats what i did. i put a thin layer on the CPU aswell but maybe not thin enough? i wish i had an ambient temp sensor. i think i will go ahead and reseat the heat sink then. thanks for the help and advice.

[Vulpesveritas]

Aznpersuasion89, on 12 August 2012 - 06:35 AM, said:

i did the linepack test and it doesnt heat up as much as the prime95 large fft stress test does. and i have 2 120mm intake fans at the front of the case. its the rosewill future case.



ya thats what i did. i put a thin layer on the CPU aswell but maybe not thin enough? i wish i had an ambient temp sensor. i think i will go ahead and reseat the heat sink then. thanks for the help and advice.

You want the layer to be as thin as is possible, it's just there to fill in gaps where there would otherwise be air.

Also, I vote on the air conditioner.

Edited by Vulpesveritas, 12 August 2012 - 08:46 AM.

[Sug]

I feel your pain. My building is from the 1920's and we have neither heat nor ac. : /

Something I did that helped my old pc, I used 4 inch diameter tubing (not sure what it's called, thin plastic around a spiral wire. collapse-able, adjustable) and I ran that from my intake fan directly to my cpu fan. Lowered my idle and my full load temp by like 5 degrees C. Might have a pic somewhere.

[Aznpersuasion89]

i dont think that would work with me



i tried reseating everything. moping around on the web i sit at ~40C and prime95 ~55C. ambient is ~26C. this time is tried the dot method.

Edited by Aznpersuasion89, 12 August 2012 - 03:07 PM.

[Ouster]

You mentioned you just had a fan loose on top of the case right? Have you tried taping up the excess grill it looks like a kind of long area at the top of the case. You could add a little tape around the heat sink as well. Strangely enough I have found that having an opening on a case that not covered by a fan can adversely affect air flow. Like if you leave the side door of a case open it can make you temps go up by around 10C. I think it because the fan acts as a pressure barrier so it not like that part of the case is open to begin with. So if a large section of the case is just open the air will rush in and equalize the pressure disrupting air flow and making it harder for the air to pass through the heat sync fins.

Well if none of this helps your probably ok stock setting are designed to survive some fairly harsh home conditions like high humidity and temperature. And your certainly have better cooling that a OEM manufacturer would usually provide.

[Aznpersuasion89]

Ouster, on 13 August 2012 - 02:08 AM, said:

You mentioned you just had a fan loose on top of the case right? Have you tried taping up the excess grill it looks like a kind of long area at the top of the case. You could add a little tape around the heat sink as well. Strangely enough I have found that having an opening on a case that not covered by a fan can adversely affect air flow. Like if you leave the side door of a case open it can make you temps go up by around 10C. I think it because the fan acts as a pressure barrier so it not like that part of the case is open to begin with. So if a large section of the case is just open the air will rush in and equalize the pressure disrupting air flow and making it harder for the air to pass through the heat sync fins.

Well if none of this helps your probably ok stock setting are designed to survive some fairly harsh home conditions like high humidity and temperature. And your certainly have better cooling that a OEM manufacturer would usually provide.

yes, the top is designed for two 120mm fans and so is the side panel. i had the sides off to try and reroute some wires to help with air flow, not cooling. i finally figured out speedfan last night and cranked up the CPU fan and ran prime95, *it wasnt very effective*. but last night gave me a glimpse of hope. as i running MWO my peak temp was 46C instead of 55C, it finally got cool last night in my house. ill try the tape method, gonna look like poop though.

[JFlash49]

you could do what i do...wait until its in the afternoon when its way cooler . best part. its free !

[Ouster]

If you have any black paper or black electrical tape it hopefully won’t look to bad. You can try to tape it up form the inside as a final fix but give it a quick check for now. You can work on making esthetically pleasing later or if it works. Don’t worry as much about taping around the fan the weight of the fan will probably be ok seal on it own.

[silentD11]

Quote

I don't think the alcohol percentage doesn’t real matters too much the advantage to alcohol is it dries fast contains no contaminated and it a little bit of a solvent. In pinch you can clean electronics with water if you had to you just need to make sure it’s all dried off and you didn’t leave a deposit or film.

Deionized water (distilled also works) is fine for electronics. It's completely clean and furthermore it's nonconductive (water isn't conductive, it's other crap in it or it being ionized that makes it such a good conductor). It's always good to keep a few gallons of crap around.

Don't drink it though, as deionized water is so clean it will actually pull crap from your stomach into it and make you feel sick.