Greetings all,
Reference the drilled holes you show on the blog page:
Some suggestions:
- the holes need a direction of entry, mostly from front,
- angle a smaller drill bit so side of bit scores the hole and add small build up/pushback at back surface of hole.
- different size drill bits to simulate all the size AC that fired at it, look at micro-drills.
- the smaller AC impacts need to follow a path as many were fired in burst, strafing line.
- some heat (soldering iron) to simulate the laser slash's, use the flat tip iron. (test first on scrap)
- any deep impacts normally have a pushed up rim around the entry hole. (see misery image at legs)
- all the drilled holes are too centered on the armour, need some that "just caught" the edges.
Picture firing from front of model, look along that line and simulate the impacts, same as lasers, set the model at back of desk and do the line look to gauge where the impacts could hit.
Check reference images of damaged military armour.
Mind that this armour is advanced and type of projectiles that impact it have a different reaction when hitting.
- AC's, LRM's enter at different directions and angles, lasers leave melted slash's with possibly some small drips/melted mess.
- You may even look into adding pasted on field repair plates to more serious damage locations, but be careful on oversizing add-ons. There may even be clean armour locations with no damage that have slightly different colour, simulation replaced units.
- The Misery shows many rippled sections from countless multi impacts, each overlapping the earlier damage and using different size impact damage holes.
- Many of the images of the Misery show the deep impacts as silver on the inside where the armour is thick, with the outer edges of the holes "rolled over", for these use a thin pointed exacto knife on the rolled over edges and pick the edge to simulate broken entry effects.
- modeling clay can be your friend when showing damage effects, I use a small tube of "Squadron putty" which is fast drying and can be sculpted, perfect for models. White or green, fine or medium acrylic putty. (does not heat up while drying)
[example:
http://www.micromark...6-oz,10901.html]
- I sometimes use graphite power and pastel power to simulate metal and inner edges/effects, weathering and wear.
Battle damage is sometimes very difficult to simulate and still look real, take your time and practice on something other than the model till your comfortable with the results. Normally colour and wash's would be used to highlight or age the effect, but this model is all black. So look into using some gloss, flat, and various differences to show effects.
PS: Excellent work on the Raven, cockpit green glass look is great. Did you use "MicroScale" for the glass look? Note: all these suggestions were posted before I looked at your site, I see you have most of the materials referenced here.
Good luck
Edited by 9erRed, 19 March 2014 - 03:50 AM.