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Rusty Jenner (Updated With Overloaded Pics!)

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#21 Sarlic

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Posted 13 April 2014 - 05:18 AM

Looks great...!

#22 Valcrow

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 10:03 AM

View Post9erRed, on 13 April 2014 - 03:44 AM, said:

Greetings all,

Reference the "rust" effect, looks like you used the hairspray technique for the picked out rust. Great Mech porn.

I actually think the print nozzle line adds some to the miniature, gives it an actual industrial look. I'm so tired of the pristine smooth looks of most "advanced" futuristic machine designs. The 3D printers with Xfine nozzles, without getting into the 1/4 million $ pieces of equipment, appear to work just great at this scale. And the model prints out really looking like it came off an assembly line, and designed for combat. As long as there are some fine details still showing, the possible addition of some "photo etched" details (were they might fit), scaled and damaged decals, and maybe even some "crystalclear" for lenses, This one looks great.

If your doing another one I would definitely look at adding some of the "warning signs and stripes" decals from that referenced decal site link. Stripes around the Jump Jet ports, warnings on legs an weapons areas.
http://www.fightingp...cs.com/misc.htm
Military vehicles have warnings and decals all over them, most end up covered in mud, but they are there.
- I've used some of the #2 ,#3 Danger/Warning signs decals and they add exactly what was needed for that "wow" look.

The company your sending it to should be quite happy to display it as "what could be" from there printer.

9erRed


I like the printed look as well, the lines sometimes adds a detailed layered armor look. The only problem I find with the print lines is that when painting with more watered down paints like washes, they tend to run along the lines. Sometimes that's good but sometimes it wraps around things you don't want it to.

Bishop mentioned those decals earlier, I think they're a bit too small but maybe the warning tags might be ok scale. Anyone have luck with those self printed ones? do you need special printers so the ink doesn't run?

For the rust, I just used salt, no hairspray. There's still some salt on there...

#23 TygerLily

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 10:08 AM

EPIC. What we need is a blackmarket of BattleTech tabletop scale minis from people's home 3D-printers, sculptures, etc....srsly...

#24 Sentinel373

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 02:27 PM

awesome work as always ;)

#25 Odins Fist

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 02:34 PM

Now here's a challange, instead of a "Ship in bottle", I want to see a King Crab in a bottle..!!! ;)

#26 DONTOR

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 02:35 PM

Did you use a salt technique? Thats what It seems like to me anyhow... Good work!

#27 Dirus Nigh

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 03:09 PM

wow, that so good I swear I can hear the thumbing feet of an Atlas trying to chase it.

#28 Kiiyor

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 03:46 PM

This is amazing. Utterly amazing.

Now all you need is a hot pin to add some battle scarring.

Or a shotgun filled with ratshot. Or an air rifle filled with hundreds and thousands (which causes a surprising amount of multi-coloured pain).

#29 Valcrow

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 08:15 PM

View PostDONTOR, on 14 April 2014 - 02:35 PM, said:

Did you use a salt technique? Thats what It seems like to me anyhow... Good work!


I did indeed. It works like a charm, minus the massive mess that it creates. There is still some left over salt. Looks like dirt and rust so I kept it in.

View PostKiiyor, on 14 April 2014 - 03:46 PM, said:

This is amazing. Utterly amazing.

Now all you need is a hot pin to add some battle scarring.

Or a shotgun filled with ratshot. Or an air rifle filled with hundreds and thousands (which causes a surprising amount of multi-coloured pain).


That's a good idea, that might be the next thing I might need to teach myself. Unfortunately people in Canada are squeemish about guns and stuff, so it might just have to be a pin :)

I already sealed this guy with protective spray and it's shipping out tomorrow, so perhaps the next one whatever that may be... decals and Bullet wounds...

#30 Nathan Foxbane

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 08:40 PM

Would probably want to use a hot fine punch with a rounded end to melt craters for AC and missile hits in slightly instead a tap with hammer. Of course I am not sure how good that kind of heat would be for the punch.

Edited by Nathan Foxbane, 14 April 2014 - 08:40 PM.


#31 Valcrow

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Posted 16 April 2014 - 10:48 AM

PLA gets soft pretty quickly at around 150 C, I could probably torch a pin and push it in, a punch might be a bit big. Might be fun to make a Misery that way. Though I don't have a stalker unfortunately.

#32 Nathan Foxbane

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Posted 17 April 2014 - 10:41 AM

Little research shows I was thinking a bit too big. I could have sworn they came in smaller than 1/16. Center punch's angles are off for depth and jeweler's watch pin punches are pricey, but at least they go to 0.6mm. Would a scriber work better?

#33 VrZ999

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Posted 17 April 2014 - 11:49 PM

amazing!!





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