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1: 60 Scaled Adder


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#1 antoha proud

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 07:15 AM

I tried a new material to sculpt my mechs. It's rather feels as bubble gum, but after boiling it becomes solid. It is wery difficult to work with so do not judge me strict)))).

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Edited by antoha proud, 05 January 2015 - 07:20 AM.


#2 Source Control

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 07:30 AM

Sure beats anything I can do. Nice work! Thanks for posting!

#3 Lily from animove

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 07:36 AM

Ohhhh nice, what material is that? I was planning on doing a Nova. after they screwed the Dawi 8th edition rulebook, I have a lack of modelling in my Life :/

Also, how much will the material change when being boiled.

and before you continue, make weapon mount points with neodyn magnets to be able to echchange weapons.!!!

Edited by Lily from animove, 05 January 2015 - 07:42 AM.


#4 antoha proud

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 08:41 AM

View PostLily from animove, on 05 January 2015 - 07:36 AM, said:

Ohhhh nice, what material is that? I was planning on doing a Nova. after they screwed the Dawi 8th edition rulebook, I have a lack of modelling in my Life :/

Also, how much will the material change when being boiled.

and before you continue, make weapon mount points with neodyn magnets to be able to echchange weapons.!!!



Material prodused in Poland " Plastishka", After 5-10 min of boiling it will be solid as plastic.

And yes i was planning to make changable weapons.

Thanks!

#5 9erRed

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 10:41 AM

Greetings all,

If it's available were your at, look for a material called 'playdough'. It's a kids material like clay, very easy to mold and sculpt.

- It's air dry so no loss of detail or warping and you can add on details or additional material after it's dry with a product called 'squadron green putty'. (a common material used by model builders for detail work or building small parts.)

Due to the detail found on models of Mech's and the method your material requires to cure they may not be quite the match for what your looking for. Not without quite a lot of 'after hardening' detail work with small tools.

- There quite a difference between sculpting a Mech and 'hard edge' building one.
- If your looking for the professional material for sculpting, the stuff studios and industries use to build models, look for a product called RenShape. Its a dense foam type material that can be machined, drilled, painted, glued, sculpted, basically everything your looking for. And it needs no curing. Before the 3D printing machines became popular and less expensive this was the material of choice for rapid prototyping and model building. (and still is)

Good work for what you had to build with.
Aim True and Run Cool,
9erRed

#6 Lily from animove

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 11:09 AM

View Postantoha proud, on 05 January 2015 - 08:41 AM, said:



Material prodused in Poland " Plastishka", After 5-10 min of boiling it will be solid as plastic.

And yes i was planning to make changable weapons.

Thanks!


That sounds quite interesting,
does it change sizze or such when getting boiled? did you made a tets boiling sample thing?

#7 Mech42Ace

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 12:27 PM

View Post9erRed, on 05 January 2015 - 10:41 AM, said:

Greetings all,


- It's air dry so no loss of detail or warping and you can add on details or additional material after it's dry with a product called 'squadron green putty'. (a common material used by model builders for detail work or building small parts.)


Good work for what you had to build with.
Aim True and Run Cool,
9erRed


Also too add to this, here is what I know about squadron putty

It comes in two colors, white and green. According to a modeling forum I was reading, white putty is best for parts that are going to be painted in a lighter color, while green is best for darker paints.

Green putty tends to hold up better under stress as it seams to be more ridged than the white putty.
Both types can be used to fill gaps, are sandable and take 30 mins to set up.

Green putty tends to conform to this promised '30 minutes or less' dry and setup time, while the white putty takes a little longer.

Be very careful as too the amount of putty you put on a model as they both CAN AND WILL MELT PLASTIC in order to set up and bond to the surface efficiently (trust me, learn from my mistakes... Lol)
Squadron putty can be applied using a brush or spatula, and can be watered down to fill nooks and crannies.

Good luck and have fun modeling, and let me know if you have any questions.
-ace

Edited by Mech42Ace, 05 January 2015 - 12:31 PM.


#8 TheMundaneYesYes

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Posted 08 January 2015 - 01:50 AM

Have not seen a Battle Tech model yet done like this. Very interesting to see, I would like to see how it turns out.

#9 Agent Cooper

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Posted 08 January 2015 - 10:18 PM

Looking good.

#10 9erRed

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Posted 09 January 2015 - 12:13 PM

Greetings all,

Reference using wax as a Medium for silicon or plaster moulding;

Care should be used when selecting what types of wax is used,
- there is a very good modeling wax used for reproducing carved candles, not affected by using certain RTV silicon's.
note here; some silicon's produce heat as they cure, this would destroy any fine detail on some wax's.
- If you are selecting wax then also divide up the model into smaller castable parts,
note, one somewhat cheat for matching left and right sides is to only cast one side. Make a reverse cast and repeat it for the other side. (more time but exact match, easer to remove small items and add different side pieces than build the whole side.)

For using plaster as a cast material, again care to find the finest detail producing material you can.
- The priciest would be 'dental plaster' material. But there a quite a few cheaper materials designed specifically for small run castings. (all easy pour, bubble free, fast cure.) Look to an Industrial, Arts, or Special Effects supplier, not retail, for the best material in the sizes needed.

The material for carving and casting carved candles is excellent to work with, can use common tools and is available is small sizes, if required.

Addition: Using the images of the Mech's from various sources, the dimensions, depth, shape, sizes can be transferred to transparencies. Using these as guides for the carving should help. Orthographic images of the same scale work best. (pretty much what you see from the game renderings some have shown.)

Good luck,
Aim True and Run Cool,
9erRed

Edited by 9erRed, 09 January 2015 - 12:22 PM.


#11 Bishop Steiner

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Posted 09 January 2015 - 04:45 PM

looking real nice so far Antoha!

#12 Stingray Productions

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 07:25 PM

Better than anything I could ever do, +1!

#13 Grendel408

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Posted 13 January 2015 - 05:22 PM

nice sculpting! kudos dude :D





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