Jump to content

- - - - -

A Very Beginner's Guide To Mech Building


7 replies to this topic

#1 Not A Real RAbbi

    Member

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • Survivor
  • Survivor
  • 1,688 posts
  • LocationDeath to Aladeen Cafe

Posted 24 December 2015 - 07:59 PM

The following is kind of a long read. It's worthwhile for new players, though, before they go asking us how-to and what-about questions. NOT that we don't like to help a new player, because we certainly DO, but this might help anyhow.

Read on, forgive the long and scrolling text, and expect further information to be added in the future.

Oh, and WELCOME TO ALL NEW PLAYERS!

INTRODUCTION:

Spoiler


For starters...
Spoiler


IMPORTANT ENGINE CONSIDERATIONS:

Spoiler


Additional information concerning Standard and eXtra Light (XL) engines:

Spoiler


HEAT, HEAT SINKS, and YOU

Spoiler


Ammunition, Gauss Rifles, and Locating Equipment in Components

Spoiler


Reminder about Clan omnimechs

Spoiler


A LATER CHAPTER

Spoiler


Weighing In

Spoiler


Marking one's territory

Spoiler

Edited by Sister RAbbi, 26 June 2016 - 11:17 PM.


#2 Rogue Jedi

    Member

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • Overlord
  • Overlord
  • 4,908 posts
  • LocationSuffolk, England

Posted 25 December 2015 - 02:17 AM

Hi Rabbi, good post but there are a few areas that I have sugestions on

View PostTheRAbbi, on 24 December 2015 - 07:59 PM, said:

Also keep in mind that FF armor and Endo Steel structure will occupy critical slots, but they’re called “Dynamic” in the Mech Lab for a reason. Those slots may be allocated ANYWHERE within the mech; they need not be in contiguous locations at all, so long as they are allocated. Mech Lab will automatically assign the critical slots within the mech for these, but if you want to place something in a location that has a dynamic slot allocated to armor or structure, as long as there is ample room SOMEWHERE else in the mech, Mech Lab will allow it and automatically move the armor and/or structure when you place the item.

do not forget that for Omnimechs the Endo and Fero slots are fixed not dynamic

Quote

Also, single heat sinks mounted in the mech’s LEGS can cool more efficiently if those legs are submerged in water

any heat sinks do this, in any location if the location is submerged, several lighter Mechs can go completely under water on some maps, there are several Clan Mechs where you can mount a double in the legs

Quote

When we change the heat sinks to doubles, and add Endo-Steel internal structure, we can free up even more weight. Using that additional weight, we can add back two double heat sinks (for a total of 10) to be still more heat efficient than we were before with a greater number of singles. And we can then change the three lasers to all medium pulse lasers (MPL), and carry a total of three (3) tons of Gauss ammo. This configuration is considerably more heat efficient than stock, and has a longer effective range for its primary weapon. But it is still SLOW.

If we then exchange the STD 200 engine for an XL 225, our top speed jumps to 72.9 km/h and we gain 1.5 tons of free weight. Also, the higher engine rating means an additional ninth double heat sink is now included in the engine’s weight and space, so we may remove one of the doubles for yet more free weight and space. Using that, we can install an Anti-Missile System (AMS) in the LT, and a ton of AMS ammo in the CT or one of the legs. Further, we can add the last bit of armor to CT, and all but one point to each of the legs, making the mech a little more survivable.

I know you are just illustrating what can be done, but explaining why an XL may not be wise in a Hunchback is probably a good idea, also for the Hunchback I would generally recommend taking the stock build, upgrading to Endo and DHS, then using the free space to upgrade the engine to a 250 or 275, upgrade all small lasers to mediums and then using any spare space for ammo or heatsinks, finally if there are still 15 or more slots free upgrade armor to Fero

Edited by Rogue Jedi, 25 December 2015 - 02:19 AM.


#3 Leone

    Member

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • Ace Of Spades
  • Ace Of Spades
  • 2,693 posts
  • LocationOutworlds Alliance

Posted 25 December 2015 - 04:04 AM

So, player, lets assume you listen to folk who suggest trying the hunchback as your first purchase. Its a good begginer mech, but I hear some folk just don't like the 4G for some reason.

That's okay, you can change it up.

Let's look at our options. I can walk you through altering your build to specifications.
Spoiler


~Leone.

Edited by Leone, 26 December 2015 - 12:25 PM.


#4 Not A Real RAbbi

    Member

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • Survivor
  • Survivor
  • 1,688 posts
  • LocationDeath to Aladeen Cafe

Posted 25 December 2015 - 09:31 AM

RJ-

Spoiler


Hey, HAPPY HOLIDAYS to everyone!

EDIT: Added section on STD/XL engines.

SECOND EDIT:

Posted Image

This is OLD data, from shortly after the Phoenix battlemechs were released. I will be conducting the experiment again. First, the addition of Clan mechs and their heat sinks adds another dimension. Second, the values for heat capacity and dissipation have changed. Therefore, it is worth revisiting. And it is relevant to the topic of mech construction for the VERY new player.

On to the above image. This is, again, OLD data. I started with three configurations of the LCT chassis. The LCT-1V(P) had three torso-mounted single heat sinks outside the engine (XL 190). The LCT-3M traded those singles for doubles, but maintained them in the same side-torso locations. And the LCT-3S kept single heat sinks, but mounted them in the legs. For each mech, I measured the registered heat (as percentage of maximum) on the HUD's heat bar for the numbers shown. First, I measured the resting heat (standing still). Then, I accelerated the mech to 50% or 60% of its maximum forward speed, which is labeled 'W' for "Walking", and then to maximum speed for the 'R' or 'Running' number. Next, I brought the mech to a standstill and allowed heat to normalize. At that point, I fired a single alpha strike (each mech was equipped with a single medium laser) from resting heat, and measured the maximum heat number displayed. Again, I allowed heat to normalize. At that point, I held the alpha strike key until the mech overheated (if it did at all) and measured the time it took to overheat. This was repeated for each mech, in Training Grounds, on three maps: Alpine Peaks, Crimson Strait, and Caustic Valley (old version of course). In Crimson Strait, I measured on dry ground, again in shallow water, and again in deep water. In Caustic Valley, I measured on dry ground, in the lake (only shallow water), and in the middle of the caldera (known to be hotter than the rest of the map).

I plan to repeat the experiment with the Locusts, as well as a JR7-D(S) or JR7-F(C), and one of the Clan JR7-II-C variants. The comparison Clan-to-IS will be less valuable, as the weapons used will have different heat, cooldown, and duration. I may opt for ERPPCs for the Jenners, therefore, to get the best possible comparison; both IS and Clan ERPPCs produce 15 heat and have a 4.00-second cooldown, unaided, per Smurfy. Quirks, however, will throw a bit of a wrench into the experiment.

EDIT AGAIN: Added section on heat sinks, with some updated observations on mech heat from TODAY. You're welcome, world!

Edited by TheRAbbi, 25 December 2015 - 06:36 PM.


#5 JC Daxion

    Member

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • Liquid Metal
  • Liquid Metal
  • 5,230 posts

Posted 26 December 2015 - 08:19 AM

View PostLeone, on 25 December 2015 - 04:04 AM, said:

So, player, lets assume you listen to folk who suggest trying the hunchback as your first purchase. Its a good begginer mech, but I hear some folk just don't like the 4G for some reason.



I love the 4G, but to me it is a hard mech to play over the 4H... That said, try the 4G with ac-20+ 4 tons and 3 SML+3 machine guns + 1 ton.. Once i started playing this build, while it is a much shorter ranged mech, it just shreds compared to the 3 ML version.. :)

#6 Not A Real RAbbi

    Member

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • Survivor
  • Survivor
  • 1,688 posts
  • LocationDeath to Aladeen Cafe

Posted 26 December 2015 - 12:03 PM

I like the HBK for new players, and owned a few myself on my previous account. I have to agree that it is THE beginner battlemech. Variety of weapons loadouts makes the chassis a great learning experience, if you give it a try (-4G/H, -4J, -4P, gives the best overall experience). The big, squishy RT makes torso twisting and shielding imperative for survival. Engine cap allows for some respectably quick builds, without letting it get insanely out of hand, and that means that positioning is still a vital skill to learn (something I managed not to pick up, unfortunately). Low mounts for the arm weapons, but high mounts for the primaries? Good for teaching one's self about corner peeking and hill humping, at least with the direct-fire variants. HBK is just THE chassis. The HBK-IIC-x are even better in some ways, as they add Jump Jets and make all that goodness possible, while maintaining the squishy side torsos that make damage spreading so important. Seriously, can there even BE a better learning chassis than the HBK? It's so badass, even the Clans use it! (Okay, that might be a bit much.)

Also, this IS, in fact, a shameless self-promoting bump. Couldn't live with myself if I didn't come clean about that.

Reminder: The focus here is the very BASICS of construction. After all, there is no 'gate' mechanic for a new player before being able to move equipment and weapons around in his/her mechs. You see some crazy stuff now and then in the PUG queue. Sometimes, it's players just being derpy because it's fun (5x Flamer, 1x TAG, JR7-F(C) is a fun one). Sometimes, it's a new player who doesn't know any better.

What's more, and we're going to get to this soon, you often see builds that favor symmetry and multiple range brackets over proven effectiveness. Say you spot someone running a stock configuration on a MAD-3R, for instance. Yeah, THAT'S a great build. The arms are fairly squishy, so there go your low-mounted PPCs and MLs in a hurry, leaving you with just an AC/5 (and a single one of those is NOT okay for anything going under 97.2 stock). You can basically just leave that neutered 75-ton paperweight for the Commandos to finish off. It's a little more than BASIC mech building, but it's on the short list. Asymmetric builds, range brackets, quirk considerations, etc., are all forthcoming. And I'm trying to keep this as generalized and new player friendly as I can.

I DO APPRECIATE THE FEEDBACK, BTW, AS WELL AS THE DISCUSSION OF FAVORITE HBK BUILDS AND SO ON. It's HELPFUL! Keep it up!

<3

#7 latabar

    Rookie

  • 3 posts

Posted 03 January 2016 - 07:35 PM

View PostTheRAbbi, on 24 December 2015 - 07:59 PM, said:

The following is kind of a long read. It's worthwhile for new players, though, before they go asking us how-to and what-about questions. NOT that we don't like to help a new player, because we certainly DO, but this might help anyhow.

Read on, forgive the long and scrolling text, and expect further information to be added in the future.

Oh, and WELCOME TO ALL NEW PLAYERS!

INTRODUCTION:

Spoiler


For starters...
Spoiler


IMPORTANT ENGINE CONSIDERATIONS:

Spoiler


Additional information concerning Standard and eXtra Light (XL) engines:

Spoiler


HEAT, HEAT SINKS, and YOU

Spoiler


Ammunition, Gauss Rifles, and Locating Equipment in Components

Spoiler


Reminder about Clan omnimechs

Spoiler


A LATER CHAPTER

Spoiler



#8 Not A Real RAbbi

    Member

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • Survivor
  • Survivor
  • 1,688 posts
  • LocationDeath to Aladeen Cafe

Posted 24 June 2016 - 11:36 PM

I'll bet you thought I had hung this up, right? NOPE! New info in OP coming in the next hour-ish, give or take.

Latest topic? Weights and weight classes, overview...

EDIT: Tomorrow... Insomnia is weird...

Edited by Sister RAbbi, 25 June 2016 - 12:21 AM.






2 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 2 guests, 0 anonymous users