Liquid Cooling All in One set ups
#1
Posted 05 August 2012 - 10:35 PM
#2
Posted 05 August 2012 - 10:44 PM
Although I now used both and antec v3 1200 case and antec 1000w PSU, I would go with the Corsair coolers over theirs, as they have had more time to develop and refine their designs. Hope this helps.
EDIT: Installation was also extremely easy, very much so over huge air coolers. The H80/H60 would be even easier.
Edited by Mota Prefect, 05 August 2012 - 10:45 PM.
#3
Posted 06 August 2012 - 12:19 AM
It is expensive but worth it.
#4
Posted 06 August 2012 - 12:34 AM
I am not a big overclocker, but I do like my components to run really cool and this was a great solution for that. I do have my i7-2600k mildly overclocked but nothing that is going to blow your socks off. The highest my CPU ever got was 39 C and that was when my AC was on the fritz this summer.
I hope this help you out.
#5
Posted 10 August 2012 - 01:59 PM
If/when i get it all done and my cable management done better I'll take some shots of it and post them here.
Once again thanks for the advice and info.
#6
Posted 10 August 2012 - 02:06 PM
Jaxom08, on 10 August 2012 - 01:59 PM, said:
If/when i get it all done and my cable management done better I'll take some shots of it and post them here.
Once again thanks for the advice and info.
the H100 won't fit on the challenger's top vent without modification. The H80 on the other hand, will.
#7
Posted 10 August 2012 - 02:16 PM
#8
Posted 10 August 2012 - 05:21 PM
#9
Posted 10 August 2012 - 06:45 PM
#10
Posted 11 August 2012 - 09:38 AM
#11
Posted 11 August 2012 - 09:49 AM
#12
Posted 12 August 2012 - 02:18 AM
#13
Posted 13 August 2012 - 01:06 AM
Lightdragon, on 12 August 2012 - 02:18 AM, said:
You don't have to keep the radiator inside the case. Plus I don't think you understand how liquid cooling works. In a properly set up loop, the coolant is passed through the radiator, which has fans blowing air through it, to lower the temperature of the coolant itself before the coolant goes to any of the waterblocks in the loop. Some people like to put the radiator inside the case for convenience's sake, but I've seen many builds with external radiators, just to get an extra bit of cooling by keeping the radiator away from any radiant heat sources in the case itself.
Hell, if you wanted to be really high-speed with your cooling, you could put an external radiator and mount it on top of an air conditioning vent in your house. And for the truly hardcore, there's always the method of immersing your computer in mineral oil (no, I'm not kidding).
#14
Posted 13 August 2012 - 03:25 AM
Hardcover, on 13 August 2012 - 01:06 AM, said:
Well, that certainly gives a new meaning to the term "all-in-one cooling system"!
#15
Posted 13 August 2012 - 05:47 AM
Youngblood, on 13 August 2012 - 03:25 AM, said:
Well, that certainly gives a new meaning to the term "all-in-one cooling system"!
Puget systems has a DIY mineral oil kit with everything but the PC components, fans, and mineral oil included for $600.
Edited by Vulpesveritas, 13 August 2012 - 05:50 AM.
#16
Posted 13 August 2012 - 08:51 AM
Three things go into how efficient liquid cooling is. The block design for heat transfer on the item, the pump for flow rate, and the radiator to actually remove the heat.
A 120mm radiator can only remove so much heat, and that amount of heat is actually not much better, and often worse than what a high end air heatsink can remove. And I'm talking about GOOD 120mm radiators, a top end 120mm radiator will run you 60 bucks on it's own and is not the radiators that come in all in one kits. Generally to beat air cooling on a quadcore you're looking at a 2x 120mm radiator, which is around 90 bucks for a good one, or 60 for an average one.
http://www.performan...oducts_id=32495
http://www.performan...oducts_id=25388
The design of the block determines how effective the block is at removing heat, the blocks that come in all in one kits are pretty much trash and low end. Good blocks with quality micro fin designs are expensive, over 70 bucks for a good one again, some clearing over 100. The lower end blocks simply do not remove heat as well.
http://www.performan...oducts_id=34463
http://www.performan...oducts_id=30269
Of course the down side of good blocks is that they massively impact flow rate and are restrictive as all hell, you need a quality pump to actually get their potential out of them, with out one performance goes to crap. A good pump that has enough head and pressure to be used with a top end block will range from the high 60's to a hundred bucks as well...
http://www.performan...oducts_id=31420
So to beat the top end of air cooling the three main components in your look are all 60-100 depending on if you want "meh" water cooling or "good" water cooling, about 180-300 bucks. I'm leaving out the cost of tubing, fittings, and whatever fluids/additives you decide you want to be nice here.
Water cooling is great and will return better temps than the best air cooling, but a 120mm radiator simply does not have the ability to disipate air much better than top end air (it does a worse job with the crap in in the all in one kits), an average waterblock simply won't remove heat well enough for the water to matter, and an average pump lacks the flow rate to power a good block. This is very much a go big or do not bother indevor.
The upside is that those "all in one" kits cost less than top end air cooling, granted they perform worse as well, but if you want to say you have a water cooled PC for the hell of it that's the point of them, just don't make the mistake of thinking they perform anything like water cooling or that you cant beat them with a good heatsink/fan.
If the price doesn't make you drop from sticker shock keep in mind that the pump and radiator can be kept through multiple builds as the technology doesn't really change. CPU blocks change slowly, so you can keep one for a while and only worry about mounting plates from build to build but eventually you're going to need a new one. Blocks designed for single and dualcores sucked *** on core2 quads, and later those designs couldn't keep up on i7s, times change.
#17
Posted 31 August 2012 - 12:49 PM
#18
Posted 31 August 2012 - 01:19 PM
Anyways, You'll be happy with your purchase regardless. I'd suggest the Antec 920 or the Zalman Closed loop (If you want the corsair the h80 will do). You can achieve the same type of performance as the h100, with the dual rad Antec 920 or H80. My experience comes from nearly 8 years of building custom computers, loops, and servers. I personally own and maintain my own custom triple 120mm rad with external pump and tank.
Edited by SIN Deacon, 31 August 2012 - 01:23 PM.
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