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My Clan Mech Production Line (Okay, Miniature)


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#1 Joseph Ward

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Posted 27 November 2012 - 04:34 PM

Hey all, thought maybe this would get some appreciation here..


owing to the dearth of nice miniatures out there I decided to take matters into my own hands.. these are 100% built from scratch (epoxy resin and styrene plastic). Have also used some brass; the cockpit glass (yes it is transparent - note the pilot sitting in there) is made from clear plastic packaging material (i.e.: junk - I'm a horder); the LRM warheads are .7mm mechanical pencil leads - shaped elliptical and painted white.

Not 100% sure as to the scale - the Mech stands about 7~8cm tall - so I guess is about 1/100?

Obviously I have tried to copy the boxart from the original MW2 game. In my opinion the computer renderings of the TImberwolf used in the MW2 art are the best-looking renditions of the Tibmerwolf I have ever seen... here's hoping that they look like this when/if they appear in MWO.

I've started making two copies (shown in raw plastic, epoxy resin) - and will probably revise and upgrade the detail on the first one when I get a chance - I realise that the legs and feet are not quite correctly shaped on the original prototype. Fairly happy with the torso and cockpit though.

Have also started building a Warhawk, Marauder IIC and Direwolf - obviously I like my Clan Omnis.. :(

N/B: the Smoke Jaguar Direwolf is another mech I put together when I was about 12 (quite a few years ago now - skills have progressed somewhat).. Yup, mechwarrior really was a significant part of my childhood, haha.

Maybe this will bring back some memories for those so-inclined - I thought this was probably the right place to be sharing this..

/Enjoy the photos anyway :-)

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#2 Psin

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 07:18 AM

avesome

#3 RFMarine

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 08:03 AM

cool!

#4 Eximar

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 08:12 AM

I despise clan mechs, but very nicely done, Sir.

#5 Joseph Ward

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 12:59 PM

thanks for the replies!


View PostEximar, on 28 November 2012 - 08:12 AM, said:

I despise clan mechs, but very nicely done, Sir.


I won't try and understand why this is so - but I have been impressed with the MWO Atlas and particularly the Hunchback. The Devs have done an awesome job on these mechs and they look utterly awesome. I will probably build an inner sphere lance when I get time.

Can't beat a little craft-time huh :D

more pics to follow..

thanks again for the comments everybody.

#6 Eximar

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 07:29 PM

Yes, I absolutely love their takes on IS mechs.

As to clan mechs, I'm 50 now, and started playing BT right after it came out in 1985. My gaming group loved it, but we felt like the clan invasion ruined the BT universe. Lots loved it, but lots didn't.

Anyway, I don't doubt that Alex Iglesias can make even spindly armed greenhouses look cool, so we'll see what happens with the clans in MWO. :D

#7 Joseph Ward

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 01:33 AM

okay so you are obviously a true blooded Battletech fan :P

I guess my infatuation with the Clans owes mostly to my generation - and having had a first introduction to the Battletech universe through MW2 and GBL. I absolutely loved the byzantine and enigmatic nature of the Clans as a kid - and as such, still feel a kind of fondness toward both Clan Wolf and Clan Ghost Bear today..

The MWO IS mechs deserve a lot of praise, though - and certainly the Hunchback, Cicada and Atlas, to name but a few, all beg to be built in miniature..

I would be absolutely delighted to see this game spawn a series of newer, better looking and more accurate scale models - even if that would render my own scratch-building efforts in vain.

Maybe we will finally get a well-produced, realistic and gritty non-cheesy hollywood film.. wishful thinking I guess.

#8 Joseph Ward

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 03:43 PM

here are a few more shots of my Timberwolf prototype. Note that the camera is extremely close - and betrays a bit of a lack of detail in terms of armour surface texturing and plate detail. I will remedy this when I get around to it. I want to approximate surface finishes for ferrofibrous, laser reflective and reactive armour in this small scale when I figure that out. Will also add some more plate detail.. delicate surgery on an already completed and painted mech - but doable nonetheless ;)

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#9 Joe3142

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 04:11 PM

that timberwolf looks great! its soo dinky ;)

#10 akatrio

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 04:26 PM

That Timber Wolf looks amazing! I like how the MW2 colours look so smooth & nice in your adaptation! I'm eager to see the rest of your mini OmniMechs, especially the Marauder IIC & Warhawk (two of my favourites)!

#11 Joseph Ward

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 06:29 PM

View PostJoe3142, on 29 November 2012 - 04:11 PM, said:

that timberwolf looks great! its soo dinky :(



You remind me - I need to build a Mad Dog to keep him company.. thanks :P



View Postakatrio, on 29 November 2012 - 04:26 PM, said:

That Timber Wolf looks amazing! I like how the MW2 colours look so smooth & nice in your adaptation! I'm eager to see the rest of your mini OmniMechs, especially the Marauder IIC & Warhawk (two of my favourites)!


I messaged you back.. hope you got that. Let me know if otherwise. Will post more photos shortly of what I have for a Marauder - and the beginnings of my NEW Direwolf and Warhawk..

#12 Adrienne Vorton

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 08:54 PM

View PostJoseph Ward, on 27 November 2012 - 04:34 PM, said:

.7mm mechanical pencil leads - shaped elliptical and painted white.

O.O sometimes i can´t believe how passionate some of my fellow BT fans are :P you would make many many "trekkies" look like bloody noobs :P

great work, looking forward to see more of those minis :(

#13 Joseph Ward

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 10:03 PM

haha yep. actually the LRM racks were the hardest part: getting uniformity across those tiny little rows of missiles was a total pain. The holes I made to receive the missiles were drilled accurately by hand to increments of 10ths of a millimetre. Also, the number of warheads I painstakingly shaped - and then painted white, only to lose when they flicked off the end of my tweezers was quite heartbreaking.

And now I need to make another four LRM boxes for the other two Timberwolves... haah.

More photos (mostly of uncompleted mechs) are on the way..

#14 Joseph Ward

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 07:02 PM

Here are a few more pics.. This one shows the old Direwolf I made: it is very MW3-esque, and I copied a paint scheme/skin I saw from a game screenshot showing Galaxy Commander Corbett's mech in the Tranquil Caldera showdown. Can't remember where that skin came from - if it was original in game - or a patch - but I saw it when I was about 14 and loved it so much I made this mech straight away. I am working on a newer, better shaped and much more detailed Direwolf however - read on below..


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Also present here is my Ghost Bear Hellbringer. This one I made a few years on when I was playing MW4 - before I realised just how badly the silly overly-chunky looking mechs were bothering me. Note that the paint scheme is based on the MW4 'warpaint' scheme/option in the Mechlab - which I also thought was kinda cool when I was 17.. :)

Unfortunately the Hellbringer ended up being a bit overscaled - which is a VERY easy mistake to make when building your own mechs. You have to be careful to make sure that the biggest - tallest Assault mechs ARE bigger and taller than the heavy, medium and light mechs you build. This Hellbringer is about the same height, if not slightly taller than my original Direwolf - from which I have set the scale to size my new Timberwolves. Again, it is pretty hard to make mechs the correct height - given that they must also stand up, and balance without falling over. A simple tip for getting this right is to build one and use it as a reference - as I did with my Direwolf.. Then assemble your successive prototypes and tack the legs in place - and support them on a simple variable height jig or stand - alongside the reference mech - to determine where to fix the leg joints (you can alter height a lot by bending knees more etc).

Anyway, the Hellbringer was not a bad effort - and maybe I will revise it, make it shorter and more detailed - so as to stand alongside the new generation of minis.. We shall see..


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Finally, a few people have asked to see how these are made.. this photo shows my mech factory.

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These are all incomplete projects (in addition to the other two Timberwolves in the other photos). Clockwise from the middle left side we have..
  • The flat waist piece of a Mad Dog I am starting (identical leg set to the Timberwolves I have made) - this is the part the hips join to - which seats the torso and contains a simple bearing for torso-twist
  • A bunch of red hemispherical caps I salvaged from another model I am going to start using for Timberwolf/Mad Dog hip actuator caps
  • An earlier attempt at the Timberwolf. This one I started building when MW4 came out - and before I realised how badly cartoonised, chunky and out of proportion the mechs were in this game. The torso was also put together using a hollow wrap of curved plastic sheet. This technique was something I tried twice to try to build a Timberwolf.. and it failed both times because it didn't allow me to get the 3d elliptical nose shape right. I later decided to just use solid Epoxy putty, and shell out the cockpit and cover it with plexiglass. I think I will use this effort and convert it to an MWO-esque Catipult though, as it would be a real shame to waste it. This will need some modification to the top part of the back centre torso, but that's no big deal. I guess this will be the first mech of my IS Lance, which is probably also going to include an Atlas, Hunchback, Cicada and Jenner (all based on the lovely MWO models we now have to drool over, thanks Piranha :D)
  • Next we have the makings of my Wolf Marauder IIC.. The process of making a new prototype mech involves a lot of tacking parts in place to get a feel for the proportions and make something that looks right without wasting glue and making a huge mess. Many of the torso surfaces are just tacked in place rather than glued. This is a fairly complex shape to build - and there was an earlier aborted attempt I may try and salvage the front-end of (because it looks like an IS Crab). I try and keep all the parts I make as clean as possible - so I can see or remember exactly how they were made - and measure copies off them when I come to reproduce them. So, the top PPC (which is a brass model gun barrel I salvaged from a model warship kitset) is tacked in place - and the flat fin holding it up is actually the waist from the SECOND Mad Dog I am making. Also note the upper legs (kind of like dog bones, lol) next to the torso. Originally, these were made when I was constructing the Wolf Timberwolf shown above - and I discarded them when I realised I had made them too long - in the hope of being able to use them on a larger mech (and the Marauder immediately seemed like a good candidate).
  • Also note the pencil profile drawing of the Marauder torso next to the model. This is the ONLY actual plan I have for the model. Everything is estimated in 3d based on what looks right.. I try and make plans where I can - but they are obviously fairly primitive. Hey, sculptors create things from (or in) thin air, right?
  • Next, and moving slightly up and to the left - are two waist pieces for my new Direwolf and Warhawk. The pair obviously use the same legsets - so I am building them in tandem. The much darker pen drawing of the Direwolf which everything is also sitting on is the MW3-esque plan/general idea I am going by. I want to detail the armour textures on this monster mech to look like reactive battle armour (say, like on a Russian tank).. which will involve placing lots of little blocks on the armour plate detail. I am also going to detail the colouring of the plexiglass cockpit windows on the head a lot more - and have an orange laser-reflective screen in the middle - and a smokey dark grey sunshield on the top glass, and some darker structural pieces etc..
  • Finally, and ending at the extreme left are four more dog bone legs for the new Mad Dogs that are under construction. Again, these are identical to the Timberwolf legs I have already made (on all three new Timberwolves I have - obviously different form the old attempt I am going to finish as a Catipult). They were simply traced from the original prototype. For those who are interested in building their own - these parts are simply two identical layered pieces of flat 1mm plastic sheet - stuck together (so the join to be covered is on the outside) - with square plastic rod glued at the knee - which is later drilled to receive a thin wire pin at the joint for a little reinforcing.
  • There are a few other bits floating around in the background - note that long piece of insulated mild steel electrical wire with the white plastic tubing on the end, and rolled shimming brass wrapped around it.. this is how I make Timberwolf arms with the concentric tubular look. Actually - that plastic tube is from a candystick - I horde all sorts of trash to make these models, haha. The other cool thing about using wire cores on Timberwolf arms, in addition the added strength you get - is that you can just friction-fit the arms into the shoulder joints - and not only be able to move/target them - but take them out.. to put in their place I have a bunch of electric guitar string offcuts I got from my brother - which I bundled together and painted black to look like mynomer bundles from a severed arm. These I can put in place for that critical damage look. So much fun.
What's next? a Kodiak, a pair of Jade Falcon Summoners, a Ghost Bear Nova and a Linebacker.. The list goes on and on...






#nevergrowingup

Edited by Joseph Ward, 30 November 2012 - 08:31 PM.


#15 Joseph Ward

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 07:11 PM

forgot to mention: if people want to know more about how to make their own minis - I am happy to post a bit of a how-to guide, here - as I compiled a fairly extensive list of modelling tips for another user who messaged me I could regurgitate here with a few extra bits of info..

#16 Karyudo ds

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 09:38 PM

I would love to know more. Are you resin casting them in the end?

Always thought it would be interesting to play a Battletech game on a MWDA or slightly larger scale. Those tiny mini's don't always do them justice.

#17 Joseph Ward

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 10:32 PM

re. casting: the thought had definitely crossed my mind - as this would obviously make everything way more repeatable. Unfortunately I have absolutely no experience with doing this, and understand it's not particularly easy. I might approach a resin kit manufacturer and see if they can help me duplicate any of the master patterns I am making.

Not sure I could get away with selling copies as semi-kits though, as I technically have no rights to the IP? thoughts?

will revert with some more info on the build processes/techniques I use..

#18 Joseph Ward

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 10:36 PM

I also agree with you on the subject of the tabletop minis by the way.. I looked very closely at them before I started building my own - and concluded that they were too small, too poorly cast, and quite out of shape.. Solid castings are also a huge pain for not being able to build proper transparent cockpits and interiors as I do.

I had also thought of upscaling and building bigger more detailed models - and may get around to this at some stage.. I chose the small size I did though because I wanted them to feel collectible.

#19 Pariah Devalis

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 10:40 PM

....somehow I get the feeling a Hotwheels line of Mechs would sell like hotcakes. XD

Awesome job, man! So aside from the epoxy based parts, do you use plasticard, or do you ablate from actual chunks of resin directly?

#20 Joseph Ward

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 11:08 PM

Okay.. a bit of a cut n paste from a guide I posted to another user:

Mech production 101


Developing building methods, and accurate shapes has been something of a process of trial and error. There are very few good references out there that show good 3d models of these mechs.. You need serious patience to build these models - and also need to be prepared to throw away (okay well, discard in the hope of later being able to use) parts that don't quite look right. Nothing is worse than being stuck with something that doesn't quite look right - and devalues all of the hard efforts you have made elsewhere on the model. Quality control is boss here - and you need to be hard on yourself to achieve anything good (The Timberwolves shown here are the THIRD variant I have tried to make (and one earlier example is shown in posts above).

Some generic quick notes follow:

Construction materials

I mostly use Plastruct and Evergreen sheet plastic - in various sheet thicknesses:
  • 1mm for heavier structural components (legs!!) as you sometimes need to drill the joints and reinforce them with wire
  • .5 ~ .13mm for detail and outer surfaces (that you see and don't hide). .13mm evergreen is also great for plate detail - but be careful with it as plastic model cement melts it - so instead use cyanoacrylate (superglue or contact adhesive)
  • Tamyia 2-part Epoxy Modelling Putty (smooth surface) - for shaping curves - eg the centre torso/head of those Timberwolves
  • Tamiya Basic Putty - for filling cracks and gaps. You can thin it with Tamiya cement to make it settle better - and use the surface tension to self-level it etc. It also sands fairly smooth and it relatively soft (so easy to work)
Always be in the lookout for useful bits and pieces.. for example - I used candy sticks (Chupachups) for my Timberwolves' arms. Be careful though in that these plastics don't often work well with model cement though, and you have to use cyanoacrylate superglue..



Glues
  • Tamiya Cement - for all structural plastics, and any plastic sheet thicker than about .3mm
  • Cyanoacrylate (superglue) - for anyting metallic, or likely to melt with Tamiya cement - as mentioned above. SPECIAL TIP: KEEP IT IN THE FRIDGE: it will last for months/years once opened - whereas an open tube left at room temperature will dry up in a week. Note also that the higher viscosity of older cyanoacrylate, which has been open for longer, makes it very useful for slowly fiddling with part alignment. Brand new glue is very runny, and also sets extremely fast.. so you need to take care with for example surface mating - as the armour plate you are trying to fit may slide out of place and set permanently in a matter of seconds.
  • White Glue (or PVA) - Excellent for gluing cockpit glass - because if won't cloud or fog it up - and if you mess it up - it's water-based so you can just wash it off and start again. Avoid using it on anything that takes any sort of load, though.
  • Epoxy glue (Aidos, Araldite etc) - good for making strong bonds on load-bearing joints - hips, knees, legs etc - as it is less brittle than cyanoacrylate when dry - so is mechanically a little tougher
  • Acrylic Matt Clear Dullcoat Varnish - works excellently for very small parts - for which the potential dab of glue off the end of a pinhead is likely to be much bigger than. Obviously it is the weakest of all on this list - and should only be used for very light parts that are unlikely to be touched. I personally use the Gungze Sanjo Mr Hobby brand. It sticks well and dries completely invisible.
Tools



Get youself a good X-acto or similar blade. For making good straight edges when cutting plasticard - just lightly score a line with the blade (use a straight metal ruler) - and place the scribed plastic on a table edge etc, and break it down. The resulting fracture surface is always much straighter than when you simply cut straight through with the knife - avoid this where possible.

Also try and get a small twist-drill with chucks to receive a variety of small drills (.13~2mm). Useful for pinning leg joints with wire (to make them stronger) - and boring out the ends of MGun and Laser barrels.. actually I mostly use a sharp X-acto blade point for that..

Tweezers - lots of tweezers. They come in various shapes and sizes - and case by case they are all useful

Finishing tools

Buy a good bag of files - in various shapes and sizes.. The Timberwolf torso process involves making a fairly crudely shaped (but accurate as possible) sculpture of Tamiya Epoxy putty - and then filing it very carefully into the correct ellipsoidal shape using files and sand paper..

Also invest in a variety of modelling sandpapers.. Tamiya finishing abrasives are particularly good..

Airbrush

I use an airbrush for my first coats. I highly recommend getting one if you are serious about modelling. I use a Tamiya HG spray gun (which can focus and paint a very tight line), and a separate compressor with moisture trap. You can pick up a basic airbrush and compressor for a couple of hundred USD - and this will greatly improve the quality of you work.

Paint Brushes

Buy good ones - art supply shops usually carry the best brushes (say, Da Vinci or Winsor & Newton etc) - the ones you find in hobby shops are usually much lower quality and are priced highly..

Paint

NB: Never use paint to try and cover poor workmanship. You will fail.

Paint and finishing are hugely important, and there is quite a bit of chemistry to take onboard here, so read this carefully..

I use Tamiya Acrylic for airbrushing - because it is designed especially for this, and it airbrushes exceptionally well (conversely it brushes very poorly - so don't even bother trying to paint it this way). Thin it with Tamiya acrylic thinner (which is mostly Isopropyl Alcohol - and pure Isopropyl Alcohol is a much cheaper alternative if you can buy it). Try to avoid putting any other brand or type of paint through your airbrush (including Tamiya enamels)

The thing to remember with airbrushed acrylic paint is its porosity - which makes its surface almost chalky. Caution is required because the airbrushed acrylic paint is very soft.. but its porosity makes the surface ideal for handpainting (brushing) washes and detail atop of. Be extremely careful though in that if you airbrush acrylic base - apply a thinned enamel wash. This is crucial, so that the solvents in the base coats, and in the washes do not interact with each other - and so that the layers of paint are incoherent. If they are coherrent - the solvents in the wet paint will delaminate the dry paint from your model - and create a huge mess. Wash Tamiya enamels thinned heavily with Tamiya enamel thinner for best results - wash mixes of black/brown etc to give a weatherly grimey battlefield look. Don't get carried away, though - a little goes a long way.

If all turns to custard - and you are forced to strip paint away - try and wipe it away with Isopropyl alcohol. If this fails, use brake fluid. Never use turpentines as they eat plastic. Always try to preserve the surface finish beneath the paint you are trying to remove - and only use sandpaper if you absolutely have no other choice.

Finally, because I obviously don't have decals to apply I like to paint details and markings and SOME camouflage details (most camouflage I airbrush - using a Tamiya Spraywork HG setup - which can airbrush a pencil line of spray if you use it carefully) with Citadel/Games Workshop paints. Citadel paints are water-based (don't put alcohol in them) - so if you are careful and don't scrub too hard - you won't dislodge your acrylic underpainting.. If the added surface tension of the water in the paint becomes too much of a problem (big drops on your brush) just add a smear of dish soap into your palete's puddle of water - the detergent will lower the viscosity of the water and make it more manageable to your brush..

A separate note on Cockpit Glass

Again, very important and using clear/transparent plexiglass windows makes models look much more believable.. Start hording plastic bubble packaging materials. Well, horde the thin ones - and collect a variety of shapes.. The Timberwolf cockpit glass came from replacement X-acto blade plastic packaging bubble/tubing, lol. Be very selective here, and make sure there are no scratches, dents or clouding present in the plastic. If you want to colour the glass (recommended) - be sure to paint the INSIDE of the glass with Tamiya Enamel clear paints (clear orange, or yellow, or blue, or smoke etc. This will ensure you have a nice surface finish on the side you actually look at. Also be careful no to apply too much paint - as this will render the glass too opaque - in which case you may as well have not bothered.

Again, and I stress this - only use white glue or clear varnish to stick your cockpit windows on - as all other glues will be prone to clouding the glass up - if even a little glue is put in the wrong place.

The solid struts/framing in the glass you can hand paint on the apexes very carefully with a small brush. Your other option is to construct very thin (.13mm evergreen) plastic fairings - paint these first and then glue them on - to give straighter lines. I did this in places on my Timberwolf..

Finally - in the overall process of building a mech - I usually come to the cockpit last; i.e.: after the mech is basically completely finished and painted - so as to not have to mask off, or accidently overspray opaque paint on my plexiglass. It is fairly easy to clean paint off the plexiglass, though, just sharpen a wooden toothpick to the shape you require with a knife, dip it in alcohol and scrub away and voila! clear plexiglass! (that's a very handy tip for when you come to detailing struts on the outside apexes with a paintbrush)..



And that is basically everything I know about modelmaking. There is probably more I could write in terms of finishing surfaces, plate detail and hiding joints with tinfoil.. but maybe any so concerned can just ask the questions and I'll be happy to answer them.

Edited by Joseph Ward, 30 November 2012 - 11:20 PM.






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