20517 replies to this topic

[dervishx5]

Do you want us to compare them to the camospec or what we're capable of?

Because drybrushing really does help.

[Odanan]

CK16, on 26 April 2016 - 09:51 PM, said:

Thoughts?

Shaders.

[Richard Hazen]

If you want washes and such I suggest getting them from Games Workshop, high quality, very simple to use and loads to choose from.

[Bishop Steiner]

CK16, on 26 April 2016 - 10:30 PM, said:

I will look into that some more, I have tried it on other scale models, it was a lot easier on a 1/35 tank then this guy though, but just as my few models practice and the more you do the better you get. I tried on this but had eh results, was more on the blue's, I ended up to dark so went to local hobby store got a very nice blue and did a light coat with that, kinda hard cause of the contrast messing with the phone camera but the blues turned out nice IMO, the Ice and Slate were done with a tooth pick and tried to be conservative with it, but maybe should have put a few drops of thinner in the jar, stuff was kinda thick to apply as you can see :/

Compared the standard Battletech minis though how does it rank?

Can't really "rank" it.

Your base pattern painting looks good.

But it's lacking in the details that make it pop. And also, IDK what paints you used, but the Blue looks like a gloss enamel, which you want to avoid. Minis are almost always painted in matte acrylics to lose the glossiness.

I don't think the mini in this tutorial is all that well painted but the basic instructions are sound
http://www.instructa...and-Effciently/

You want thin ink washes to to highlight all the lines on you mech, and then after that dries, dab some paint on your brush and dab it against a paper towel till it's almost totally dry, and feather your Mini. With dry brushing less is more, It's better to have to go over it a few times than glob on. Those 2 steps are what will sink or swim your finished mini.

But the biggest issue before that is your blue, in the photos it's just too glossy.

[CK16]

I was using Tamiya modeling acrylics I had around, the gloss is cause I had to use some non flat colors, but I plan to get a flat coat for it all

[Metus regem]

CK16, on 27 April 2016 - 07:42 AM, said:

I was using Tamiya modeling acrylics I had around, the gloss is cause I had to use some non flat colors, but I plan to get a flat coat for it all

Between GW paints and Tamiya, I prefer Tamiya... then again I did a lot of air-brush work, so I found that Tamiya was better suited to it. Not to mention the Tamiya paints are a hell of a lot cheaper to buy...

[Bishop Steiner]

Metus regem, on 27 April 2016 - 07:52 AM, said:

Between GW paints and Tamiya, I prefer Tamiya... then again I did a lot of air-brush work, so I found that Tamiya was better suited to it. Not to mention the Tamiya paints are a hell of a lot cheaper to buy...

Yeah, GW paints are overpriced like all GW products, but for brush work, I think they are much better than Tamiya.

I have a mixedbag of GW and Partha paints, found each had some colors that were better quality than the other.

CK16, on 27 April 2016 - 07:42 AM, said:

I was using Tamiya modeling acrylics I had around, the gloss is cause I had to use some non flat colors, but I plan to get a flat coat for it all

Careful with the amount of coats. The paint on the feet looks a bit thick already, rely on coats too much and you can lose all the detail lines.

also, if you don't have one already get a good matte spray sealer for after you finish your detail work.

[Ovion]

For paint:
P3 are good.
Citadel are good.
Vallejo are Good.
Coat d'Arms are good.
RPE's 'Mini Paint' seems decent.
Never used Tamiya myself, but probably fine.
Use a mix, and what's best from a given range.
For example, Citadel Washes and the White are fantastic, but I favour the black and a lot of flat colours from Citadel and P3.
Metallics, is a mix, but Citadel and Vallejo seem to be 'on top'.
Throw in some decent artists brushes (I favour Royal and Langnickle myself) and you should be fine.

Also - always thin your paints. It's better to do multiple very thing layers, than less thicker ones, and your paint looks a little thick atm.

[CDLord HHGD]

Here's a couple I did a LONG time ago and since I moved, I cannot seem to find any of my pewter minis.

[Metus regem]

CD LoreHammer Lord, on 27 April 2016 - 08:32 AM, said:

Here's a couple I did a LONG time ago and since I moved, I cannot seem to find any of my pewter minis.

Love the Centy

[Juodas Varnas]

Metus regem, on 27 April 2016 - 09:20 AM, said:

Love the Centy

Seeing old miniatures and artwork, makes me really wish our Centurion went on a diet.
I wouldn't even mind it being made taller, just make it less wide

Koniving, on 03 July 2015 - 05:38 PM, said:

While Treb and Quickdraw do need rescales, the Treb is skinny compared to the Centurion...

But honestly, on the left is MWO's Centurion. On the right is the same Centurion rescaled to match the limb and body thickness of the concept art.

Notifications for the Notifications God!
Sorry Koniving

Edited by Juodas Varnas, 27 April 2016 - 09:33 AM.

[Metus regem]

Juodas Varnas, on 27 April 2016 - 09:30 AM, said:

Seeing old miniatures and artwork, makes me really wish our Centurion went on a diet.
I wouldn't even mind it being made taller, just make it less wide

Notifications for the Notifications God!
Sorry Koniving

Wow I already love the MWO Centy, but that re-scaled one to match the concept art looks even better, like a lot better.

[TheArisen]

Check out Ajtrooper's "Starry Night"

[CK16]

Ok so I had to end up setting down all the paints and brushes. I think I am happy with it, but I was getting to that stage of trying to touch up to much and ending up messing up more then I fixed so before making it so bad that I would need to strip I think all that it needs is decals and a dullcoat!

[Steinar Bergstol]

Bishop Steiner, on 27 April 2016 - 06:38 AM, said:

Can't really "rank" it.

Your base pattern painting looks good.

But it's lacking in the details that make it pop. And also, IDK what paints you used, but the Blue looks like a gloss enamel, which you want to avoid. Minis are almost always painted in matte acrylics to lose the glossiness.

I don't think the mini in this tutorial is all that well painted but the basic instructions are sound
http://www.instructa...and-Effciently/

You want thin ink washes to to highlight all the lines on you mech, and then after that dries, dab some paint on your brush and dab it against a paper towel till it's almost totally dry, and feather your Mini. With dry brushing less is more, It's better to have to go over it a few times than glob on. Those 2 steps are what will sink or swim your finished mini.

But the biggest issue before that is your blue, in the photos it's just too glossy.

What Bishop said. One more thing about drybrushing though which I haven't seen anyone mention yet is that it is absolute murder on the bristles of your brushes, so do not use your best brushes for that unless you want them to be destroyed. Keep Your fine detail brushes far away from drybrushing.

[Karl Streiger]

just a reminder regarding the ost series:
the new Ostscout

Edited by Karl Streiger, 28 April 2016 - 04:22 AM.

[Steinar Bergstol]

Gotta admit, the new Ostscout actually looks pretty darn nice!

[TheArisen]

It looks good, but it'd need something like huge inflation or something to not make it worse than the SDR 5K

[Steinar Bergstol]

TheArisen, on 28 April 2016 - 02:36 AM, said:

It looks good, but it'd need something like huge inflation or something to not make it worse than the SDR 5K

Come now. Surely 1 hardpoint in the CT is more than enough for anyone. Heck, the designers of the 3050+ variant felt all an Ostscout pilot needed was a single TAG, so they removed the Medium Laser. Are you saying the designers of the 3050+ Ostscout might not have been 100% correct in their assessment?

[Widowmaker1981]

TheArisen, on 28 April 2016 - 02:36 AM, said:

It looks good, but it'd need something like huge inflation or something to not make it worse than the SDR 5K

Cant even be inflated enough to make it viable lol, because PGI have only ever inflated existing hardpoints in their existing location, so 2E is the best it could ever get, which is about as viable as a chocolate fireguard.