270 replies to this topic

[Steelahlive]

Interesting....
I just today was drawing out a mech'pit design on paper and had some interesting ideas myself, then decided to google as I remember the old Virtual World pods and was thinking hell maybe I can buy one of them cheaper and replace the guts, but NOW i'm thinking I'd like to do what your doing. Do you have a parts listing/price point your trying to stay at, I've already got the PC (Built) and Monitor or plural (Samsung 40 LED/LCD) in mind. I'm very interested in the custom HUD devices you've made. Any falloff or deadzoneage? I also was thinking of an old commodore or atari controller that had the simple thin stick with a rounded or squared off top as a toggle for weapons and custom buttons, sheesh the ideas are limitless now. Anyways keep up the great work and look forward to seeing this once completed!

Steel

[Propnut]

Hi Steel,

By HUD do you mean HID? If so, how good your axis are depends on how good your potentiometers are. I have some very precise Bournes bots (pictured) and some DIY hall effect sensors and both are very steady at each step (1024 steps @ 10bits). You can download free software to adjust your deadzones if you want to have them and of course to adjust the bands for those axis. I forget the name of the software (there are several) but I will try to look for them and post some links.

Edit: DXTweak is a pretty good joystick calibration and adjustment tool. It, and other joystick tools can be found here:

http://www.wingmante...#DX%20Tweak%202

I want to remind everyone that it was Foust not me that had the idea for the Teensy++ first, I just followed in his footsteps (thanks again)

I do not really have a budget in mind, I thought I might do a couple of prototypes and see if it were feasible to make kits for this mechpit and sell online. Due to the weight of the MDF the cost for shipping might be prohibitive though. I figure that when I am done I will have at least 1000.00 into the pit including the computer.

So far:

1/2" MDF 4 sheets @ 24.99 each
Black Paint 1 gallon @ 19.00
Thrustmaster F16THQ, F22 Fighter stick, Rudder Pedals @ 45.00
Teensy++ 2.0 30.00 (27.00 plus 2.99 shipping)
Breadboard (optional) 4.00
Connection wire 8.99
Pots 8@ 4.00 each (Ebay price, over the counter these type are 14.00 each)
Toggle Switches 100 @ .35 each (Ebay price, over the counter they are 8.00 each). I figure that I will use 40 or so switches and toggles.
Custom trackball (MAME unit plus USB adapter) 40.00
Casters 4@ 3.00 each
misc hardware +/- 50.00

Other than the PC parts everything else should just be scavenged from around the shop, etc.

Edited by Propnut, 16 August 2012 - 12:52 PM.

[Steelahlive]

Propnut, on 16 August 2012 - 12:49 PM, said:

Hi Steel,

By HUD do you mean HID? If so, how good your axis are depends on how good your potentiometers are. I have some very precise Bournes bots (pictured) and some DIY hall effect sensors and both are very steady at each step (1024 steps @ 10bits). You can download free software to adjust your deadzones if you want to have them and of course to adjust the bands for those axis. I forget the name of the software (there are several) but I will try to look for them and post some links.

Edit: DXTweak is a pretty good joystick calibration and adjustment tool. It, and other joystick tools can be found here:

http://www.wingmante...#DX%20Tweak%202

I want to remind everyone that it was Foust not me that had the idea for the Teensy++ first, I just followed in his footsteps (thanks again)

I do not really have a budget in mind, I thought I might do a couple of prototypes and see if it were feasible to make kits for this mechpit and sell online. Due to the weight of the MDF the cost for shipping might be prohibitive though. I figure that when I am done I will have at least 1000.00 into the pit including the computer.

So far:

1/2" MDF 4 sheets @ 24.99 each
Black Paint 1 gallon @ 19.00
Thrustmaster F16THQ, F22 Fighter stick, Rudder Pedals @ 45.00
Teensy++ 2.0 30.00 (27.00 plus 2.99 shipping)
Breadboard (optional) 4.00
Connection wire 8.99
Pots 8@ 4.00 each (Ebay price, over the counter these type are 14.00 each)
Toggle Switches 100 @ .35 each (Ebay price, over the counter they are 8.00 each). I figure that I will use 40 or so switches and toggles.
Custom trackball (MAME unit plus USB adapter) 40.00
Casters 4@ 3.00 each
misc hardware +/- 50.00

Other than the PC parts everything else should just be scavenged from around the shop, etc.

Yes I meant HID not Hud =P and 1000 bux seems cheap for a build of that nature - I really like the one posted by Choowy I think i was over at SimHQ that took a lot of time and great attention to detail.

I'm about to be medically retired from the military and as a longtime Mech fan, I gotta say this is definitely on my plate now as a project to keep me busy in the day time when friends and family are at work!!

[Propnut]

Understandable, just building these things will take up enough time to keep you busy for a while.

[ORIGINAL SteelWolf]

How are you powering your cockpit? Let me clerify. Commercial house 120v obviously. However to you have toggle switches or relays that when you flip if off a selection of items is shut off.
http://mwomercs.com/...-a-power-strip/

I'm trying to have an internal switch fire up a Master power relay. Then the monitors.. Well see below.

ORIGINAL SteelWolf, on 17 August 2012 - 01:11 AM, said:

1=power strip 1 items
2=power strip 2 items
3=power strip 3 items
Watched a few good videos on relays on youtube. Has potential.

1 House power to relay / toggle switch
1 to power strip one. On the end of that power strip is a 120 volt to USB charger and plugged into that is a device like
1 Foust is using to emulate a HID.
1 HID goes to a free USB port on the PC or a powered hub. Triggers "Reactor Online"
1 Powered hub also provides power to the PC style fans for venting. Whisper quiet and can be made directional.

2 Power strip one has power strip 2 plugged into it.
2 monitors plug as well as on the end of that power strip is a 120 volt to USB charger and plugged into that is advice
2 like Foust is using to emulate a HID. Triggers "Sensors Online" Monitors are visual. Eyes are sensors.

3 Power strip 2 has power strip 3 plugged into it.
3 internal lights powered here.
3 All sorts of lighting options available here. 120v down to the above 120-5v usb converters & then use LED
3 usb lamps. Those light switches can be mounted anywhere and i'm good soldering those. Not so with 120v.
3 HID goes to a free USB port on the PC or a powered hub. Triggers "Weapons Online"

A bit of code on the PC checks to see if all switches are up and then plays "All systems nominal"
THen i jump back and watch the thing for a few hours and wave temprature readers and volt meters at it to see if anything is over heating.

Any ideas? Thanks.

Edited by ORIGINAL SteelWolf, 17 August 2012 - 01:34 AM.

[Propnut]

I had planned on a hidden master power switch (110v) on the outside of the pit. Just a simple household flip switch. I will need to power on the system before I can open the door as the door will be on a motor and pulley system.

I understand what you are wanting, the simple answer would be to get a remote power switch like I use for the dust collector in my shop. Here is a really good unit that would look really good on the console of a simpit:
http://www.amazon.co...r/dp/B003P2UMNK

As far as starting the PC (Reactor Online) you can run a momentary switch from your console (instrument panel) to the PC motherboard like I did with my last simpit. I used a Vandal type (lighted) and about 2 feet of wire and just plugged it right into the motherboard. (2 pins). I did the same for the hard drive light and reset button. I also had the CD rom mounted to the panel as well.

You might be overthinking things a bit, fans, lights, etc can all be run from a 110v/12v converter (USB gives only 5v) or directly off the PSU from the computer. I used an old spare 350w PSU and a switch to jumper the wiring harness for extra 12v power.

[Gabriel Bekker]

Does it have air holes?

[ORIGINAL SteelWolf]

The PC would probably be on its own power cord right to the APC/wall. I like the light switch idea. Lacks the toggles *CLICK*.

[Ramm]

Propnut, I totally give you props for your hobby. That is awesome as hell, I cannot wait to see the finished product!

[Propnut]

Gabriel:

Ramm: Thank you sir. Depending on where you live in Michigan you can come by and pilot it sometime. I live just north of GR

Steelwolf: Use an old fashioned knife switch

[ORIGINAL SteelWolf]

Saw one at radio shack while i was picking up a couple toggles. Have kids though. Zap!

[Ramm]

Propnut, on 17 August 2012 - 05:55 PM, said:

Ramm: Thank you sir. Depending on where you live in Michigan you can come by and pilot it sometime. I live just north of GR

Oh snap, it would be a small drive, I live about 20 minutes North East of Detroit. I'm tempted to make the trip when your finished, of course if the wife lets me...

Edited by Ramm, 18 August 2012 - 05:08 AM.

[Propnut]

Steel: Even better idea, make a box on the side of the pit with a round keylock (vending type?) Unlock the door to throw the switch...

Ramm, as soon as it is finished come on over for the day bring the wife we have a 7 bedroom house for just my wife, daughter and I. Spend the weekend. You and I will play some Mechwarrior Online and battletech on my custom terrain board and she can enjoy the country air (which streams in from the barns)

CNC cut terrain board and pieces:

Edited by Propnut, 18 August 2012 - 01:02 PM.

[Gremlich Johns]

For a seat, I recommend getting a comfortable bucket seat from a car in a junkyard. We used to put Mercedes Benz seats in a Humvee in Germany after they first came to our unit.

[ORIGINAL SteelWolf]

Yea around here my local junk yards sell seats for $50-$160 depending on if you want electronics and or from a van. I found a couple from craigs list I just have to call on them in September. Seems the owner is ... spending a couple weeks detained.
http://eastidaho.cra...3150077906.html Same year and model i'm driving. I'd snag the passenger seat for the extra storage pod underneath.

As for opening the door and having it say reactor online, if it were keyed I have 3 kids. One of them while i was at work would loose the key.Find it, hide it, Forget where it was. Hey dad's got a new toy, i want to play with it. So far i'm not planning on putting doors on it. I kind of enjoy my almost 2 year old running up to me in my chair and reaching up at me for a hug and a pick up. No need to lock her out.

[Turbo Corvair]

Good stuff =). I too recently acquired a teensy board and look forward to putting it to work. My simpit is under heavy construction at the moment, I've decided to commit to making it a dedicated cockpit and ditch the space for playing mouse/keyboard games and the mount for the steering wheel. I am building it in such a way as to be able to modify it back to more general use if/when that time arrives.

Love the frame you built, nice shape. Mine still needs to fit into the shoe-horned closet I built to contain it which puts limitations on what I can do.

You really caught my attention when you mentioned the metal frame and motion..... if you are talking about what I think you are talking about isn't that something that will cost MANY thousands of dollars? I have to make due with just my pair of Aura bass shakers under the seat =)

[Propnut]

Corvair: a motion pit can be very cheap or very expensive, depending on much you can do yourself or the degree of motion that you want. A very simple pit has two degrees of freedom (2DoF pitch and bank) and can be done inexplensively by using car wiper motors, an AC/DC converter, electronic controllers (you can make your own from components), and a simple center pivot point (old car u-joint and partial drive line). There are people who have these type of platforms and have hundreds not thousands into them. You would also need software to feed motion information from the game to the controller. X-Sim is a free software (http://www.x-simulat...orum/portal.php) that read the force feedback information and encodes it for motion controllers. X-Simulator.de also has tutorials on how to build your own motion platorms, electonics, etc. The more degrees of freedom the more complicated and expensive the project becomes. I would be perfectly happy with 3-DoF but in reality for MWonline, 2DoF would be great.

[Moodysea]

Propnut, on 11 August 2012 - 07:11 PM, said:

My wife is very tolerant of my hobbies. I am a lucky man.

Let me get the bugs out and I will sell you a kit, lol.

Edit: How did you know my name was Dave?

LOL lucky guess... Actually I am your wife :-D

Best THREAD EVER!

On a serious level. What is better than loving your hobbies. More people should do thing slike this. This would equal more happiness in the world... :-D

[Propnut]

I completely agree.

David

[CommanderOSIS]

I definitely dig it. more people would have hobbies like this in the world if they werent so cramped. I know I would. I dont have the skills but more importantly I dont have the room and equipment. youre doing a great job dude. Im stoked to check out the final results. been following progress for a while decided it was finally time to lend some encouragement as well