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[GUIDE] Hardware Mythbusters - An In-Depth Hardware Guide

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#1321 hkk


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Posted 09 February 2013 - 07:41 PM

thanks 4 the link.

#1322 Dragonkin


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Posted 10 February 2013 - 01:34 PM

I seem to get this error only when I play on River city and no other map in the game. I have read suggestions to lower my settings. But that doesn't jive with me if I am running an I7 3370K w/ 16 GB of ram on Win 7 Ulitmate 32bit with a GTX 660 running 2GB of RAM. There is NO NEED for me to drop my settings if my system can handle this game. The Devs need to fix this issue or give us a New map. Other than that I love this game

Edited by Dragonkin, 10 February 2013 - 01:34 PM.

#1323 SG01


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Posted 17 February 2013 - 05:58 PM

Does anyone know how to invert the Y axis in this game for CH stick? The tick in MWO option clearly doesn't work. And it's so counter intuitive the default way. This is the only thing stopping me from being able to play on my projector setup. Mousing fails when you're sitting back.

#1324 Egomane


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Posted 19 February 2013 - 04:50 PM

This thread is currently holding the content of all the former Stickies of the Hardware forums. Nothing is lost!

If you can decipher what post belonged to which thread, please contact Niko Snow and he will try to recreate them into the state they were before. Only fair as he admitted to have caused this mess. :P

I have the Data about posts 1 to 220 collected and will send them to him in a few minutes.

#1325 Burya Zheleza


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Posted 04 March 2013 - 08:39 PM

View PostCephas Borg, on 12 August 2012 - 09:04 PM, said:

I'd like to add another Logitech product (deep breath) : The Thrustmaster TopGun AfterBurner ForceFeedBack (mine was boxed as a "Pro", but it ain't).

It looks a lot like the Thrustmaster T.Flight HOTAS, but is an earlier (and IMHO, slightly more reliable) build.

I'll get the cons out of the way first.

  • Old. Like me.
  • Right-handed only, left-handed throttle only. Lefties need not apply, unfortunately.
  • Pots, not Hall effect.
  • Pots are mostly good quality units, but are prone to dust and grit.
  • Grips can get warm and quite icky due to the use of some weird sweating soft plastic for the 'comfort' bits.
  • A bit fiddly to clean internally (the stick, anyway, the throttle is much simpler).
  • Driver/management software is old (2008) and is pre-configurable buttons (which is actually a pro, I think)
  • Rudder is switchable between the twist grip and a horrible digital toggle thingy on the throttle.
  • Not nearly enough buttons!
  • Reasonably well built. Bolts are used where bolts are needed, self-tapping screws otherwise.
  • There's a dust seal on the stick (but the throttle is a bit of a dustcatcher).
  • Pots *seem* to be reliable (mine was bought in 2003 and most are still OK, but see below)
  • Great quality (Cherry) switches on the stick (on my unit, anyway).
  • Rudder is switchable between the twist grip and a horrible digital toggle thingy on the throttle (yes, it's a con as well, due to the switch, but some folks like it).
  • Single unit as shipped, but is splittable (throttle on the left, stick on the right, allen key included to undo the 2 bolts)
  • When separated, all controls work to their full extents without moving the base units around.
Usage notes :
I replaced the rudder (twist grip) pot, this was a cast-iron beeyatch to get to, but was worth the AUD$0.84 I paid for a sealed pot from Jaycar (it even fit the slot perfectly). That was replaced in 2004, and hasn't been touched since.

The Y-axis gear mechanism is a POS. It was poorly factory formed, and if you really push (or pull) hard, it will slip a tooth and needs to be realigned, which can take up to an hour. I fixed that by a small metal stop epoxied in place.

Cleaning the pots is time-consuming, due to the horrific Chinese-puzzle-type construction of the joystick itself. However, once it's done, some silicone sealant will prevent the pots needing any further cleaning. Mine have lasted over 8 years without a clean, and apart from normal wear and tear, are almost out-of-the-box stable. I get about 3-5 counts of jitter at centre, less in force-feedback mode.

I also added some nice brushed nylon fuzz on the throttle slider, which has totally stopped any dust problems.

In other words, if you can find a used unit on eBay (they vary, AUD$12 - AUD$60 in the past 12 months), it could be a good buy if you're handy with a screwdriver and like mechanical things. It's sure-as-**!* a darn sight cheaper than the Australian replacement price for a current Warthog (~AUD$520 or more), and if you clean and seal the pots, lube the axis gears with a good quality silicon lubricant, and maybe replace any of the (bog-standard) microswitches in the stick with Cherry switches, you could get a nice, solid stick that should work for as long as it takes to save up for a real stick.

Personally, I'm trading up (across?) to a Saitek in the Real Near Future, but this is as much about my nephew wanting my joystick as it is about me wanting to spend all my wife bonus points on a new piece of kit.

In-game (as of today), the "standard" joystick configs work absolutely perfectly with the Topgun, all the switches are bindable, and it still beats the heck out of splitting between a keyboard and a mouse/trackball.

I hope this might be useful for anyone on a budget (or with a generous uncle).

Did you encounter a problem where the stick is locked in a constant Torso Turn? I can't even stay still to provide Fire Sppt with my Catapult. I have the 2.7.30 driver I just downloaded, and it doesn't work. I can only play with my mouse. I tried my old Wingman Extreme Digital 3D, and it has the same issue!

#1326 Mobius245


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Posted 09 July 2013 - 01:26 PM

Today I upgrade it computer here my system:

AMD FX-8350 Vishera 4.0Ghz <----- I check it was 4.01ghz becuz motherboard give small bonus
EVGA Nvidia GeForce GTX 680 FTW Standard w/backplate 4GB 256-bit
Thermaltake Chaser MK-1 ATX Full Tower Computer Case
ASUS Crosshair V Formula-Z ATX AM3+
Rosewill Capstone 750W 80 Plus Gold
ARCTIC Freezer A30 CPU Cooler
G.SKILL Ripjaws X 2x 8GB 240-pin DDR3 2133mhz <----- This one got wrong part number not match on motherboard it start down to 337mhz "Poker face"
XIGMATEK PTI-G4512 Thermal grease with gold grade thermal matrix filler particles

all of them $1,540 later in future price will come down

Mechwarrior online 92avg fps
Battlefield 3 96avg fps
War Thunder 114 avg fps
Crysis 3 61avg fps

Please don't hate me

#1327 Dragoon20005


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Posted 09 July 2013 - 05:24 PM

thats one cool rig you got there mate

seems like you got the Geforce 680, how much did that guy cost you?

#1328 hkk


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Posted 09 March 2020 - 08:33 AM

What ever happened to the idea of giving your power supply a little breathing room?
If you can afford it, buy a bigger power supply. It will last longer and run cooler.

#1329 Vxheous


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Posted 13 April 2020 - 01:38 PM

View Posthkk, on 09 March 2020 - 08:33 AM, said:

What ever happened to the idea of giving your power supply a little breathing room?
If you can afford it, buy a bigger power supply. It will last longer and run cooler.

Ideally, you should be running your PSU around ~50-75% load or so, it's usually the most efficient in that range

Posted Image

#1330 Thorqemada


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Posted 16 April 2020 - 01:33 PM

I second that!

This is a mostly overlooked issue People are usually unaware about - the best Efficiency of the PSU is mostly around the middle third to end third of the Efficiency Curve so you allways should buy a PSU at least 30% bigger than the usual non idle workload usage needs.

It is not that efficient at idle but as the idle current and voltage is very low efficiency at idle workload usage matters less compared to the usual workload efficiency.

Some very uneducated People even belive the Wattage number of a PSU describes how much power it sucks out of the wall all the time...

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