#81
Posted 02 June 2013 - 10:43 PM
I understand the legal problems and your intention to not share the files etc.
But from a "me too" point of view, could you go into detail how you made it?
You exported the model from the game files, split it in different parts and "printed" it... i'm totally new to 3d-printing, (i can cad, though)... what printer do you use, how expensive is it to "run" it, which means the raw materials, can anyone do that in his basement or do you need a lab with special tools?
Oh and, biggest question, how to make a Catapult from that atlas?
#82
Posted 02 June 2013 - 11:41 PM
#83
Posted 02 June 2013 - 11:41 PM
Awesome work by the way. What do you think it cost you for the printer and materials. Including trial and error tests?
Edited by ORIGINAL SteelWolf, 02 June 2013 - 11:42 PM.
#84
Posted 03 June 2013 - 01:22 AM
#85
Posted 03 June 2013 - 01:29 AM
627, on 02 June 2013 - 10:43 PM, said:
You exported the model from the game files, split it in different parts and "printed" it... i'm totally new to 3d-printing, (i can cad, though)... what printer do you use, how expensive is it to "run" it, which means the raw materials, can anyone do that in his basement or do you need a lab with special tools?
Oh and, biggest question, how to make a Catapult from that atlas?
There's basically 3 phases which I'm sure everyone who has printed any MW:O stuff has gone through.
1. Import/cleanup
2. Modeling
3. printing
1. That thread 'how to use PGI assets in fan art' (not exact name..) here in this forum somewhere details how to export PGI mechs to your 3D software. Then you gotta go through the grueling process of cleaning the model up after you've assembled them from pieces...
2. Modeling: you then need to model detail in fix all the holes, make it 'watertight' Make sure there's nothing interpenetrating. (And I warn you now, there is a LOT of all of that.) Once it's all nice and complete.
Break the whole thing apart into pieces you wish to print. This is kinda optional if you're going to print in one piece. If you need to design joints, connectors, etc. You do it now.
3. Print. well.... you either have a printer, or you need to send it out to a printing service. Shipping it out will net you much higher resolutions and different materials. (see sentinel's mechs) Or print it yourself in my case. I have a kit printer from ultimaker. There are literally dozens of choices of printers available. http://www.3ders.org...are/3dprinters/ Higher end printers (not like mine) will have less strict printing limitations if they have dissolvable support material. You can basically ignore gravity in your 3d work. basic FDM printers like the one I have and 90% of the ones on the list I liked to require you to think about and account for how your part will print with gravity, material warping, size, etc. No special tools needed. Materials cost depend on your printer largely. ~$45/kg is common. Comes in glow in the dark. if you're using FDM. Laser printers require photoresins that are like 150$/lb
That said. 90% of the work is in the 3D. You can even test with an FDM printer. make sure it all works, then send the same file to a professional service to get the quality.
If you're interested, try your hand at modeling first. That's a much bigger barrier to entry than printing is.
627, on 02 June 2013 - 10:43 PM, said:
http://mwomercs.com/...inted-catapult/
That was one of my earlier prints. It's tiny compared to the atlas and nowhere near as complex. Might update it to Atlas size and complexity at some point...
#86
Posted 03 June 2013 - 04:49 AM
#87
Posted 03 June 2013 - 05:10 AM
PGI BUY THE PRINT MEDIA FROM THIS GUY! pay him for hte conversion labour of love and then sell these thigns by the 10000000s
#88
Posted 03 June 2013 - 10:26 AM
#89
Posted 03 June 2013 - 12:03 PM
#90
Posted 03 June 2013 - 01:17 PM
#91
Posted 03 June 2013 - 01:39 PM
#92
Posted 03 June 2013 - 02:51 PM
Okay I need to go lie down for a bit that was too cool.
PGI, get the needed licence to get sell 6" models to us, you'll make more money than the cost of the licence.
#93
Posted 03 June 2013 - 03:09 PM
LOL for the Beagle.
#94
Posted 03 June 2013 - 07:29 PM
I think it would do wonders on that model.
#95
Posted 03 June 2013 - 08:53 PM
Killkie, on 03 June 2013 - 01:22 AM, said:
That thing looks as bigger than the atlas! Very cool on the robots.. maybe you can combine them and make a working, moving raven
Grendelwolf, on 03 June 2013 - 01:17 PM, said:
I'm not quite at the stage where I'm considering painting yet, but perhaps in the near future..
BIix, on 03 June 2013 - 07:29 PM, said:
I think it would do wonders on that model.
I checked out acetone vapors and baths upon a few suggestions here, but it seems it doesn't work well or does weird stuff with PLA. (which is what the atlas is currently made of). I don't have ABS and no heated build platform, so printing in ABS not currently an option. And thus acetone might be out of the question too.
#96
Posted 04 June 2013 - 07:10 AM
Telepresence mech warfare. You drive from the POV camera on the mech.
The Highlander looks the most like the typical walking robot, and because walking robots for enthusiasts have a very basic gait, we'd have to go with something that starts in the neighborhood of the right proportions or just give up the proportions entirely.
That said, we CERTAINLY need an atlas on the field ;-)
As far as how to smooth out PLA, you can use a heat gun.
There is another surface treatment someone put on a 3D printer gatling gun, but I can't seem to find it. I'll dig around and get back to you
Valcrow, on 03 June 2013 - 08:53 PM, said:
That thing looks as bigger than the atlas! Very cool on the robots.. maybe you can combine them and make a working, moving raven
I'm not quite at the stage where I'm considering painting yet, but perhaps in the near future..
I checked out acetone vapors and baths upon a few suggestions here, but it seems it doesn't work well or does weird stuff with PLA. (which is what the atlas is currently made of). I don't have ABS and no heated build platform, so printing in ABS not currently an option. And thus acetone might be out of the question too.
#97
Posted 04 June 2013 - 10:24 AM
Stayed for the BAP.
#98
Posted 04 June 2013 - 11:53 AM
Killkie, on 04 June 2013 - 07:10 AM, said:
Telepresence mech warfare. You drive from the POV camera on the mech.
The Highlander looks the most like the typical walking robot, and because walking robots for enthusiasts have a very basic gait, we'd have to go with something that starts in the neighborhood of the right proportions or just give up the proportions entirely.
That said, we CERTAINLY need an atlas on the field ;-)
As far as how to smooth out PLA, you can use a heat gun.
There is another surface treatment someone put on a 3D printer gatling gun, but I can't seem to find it. I'll dig around and get back to you
That's pretty cool! I remember that old robot show where these robots would flip each other over, and skewered each other with spikes. Love the mini city battleground.
An atlas would be great, but wouldn't be easy to knock over compared to quad legged ones? Though an atlas on the field would be a victory in itself, and you should win by default for pure awesomeness.
As for the heat gun, I saw a youtube video of that.. I tried torching it lightly (with a butane jet lighter) Which I thought would have a similar effect, It cleans up the edges a bit, but almost makes it plyable until it cools. Might be too hot for PLA. Will do more research on heat gun.
#99
Posted 04 June 2013 - 03:14 PM
Valcrow, on 04 June 2013 - 11:53 AM, said:
That's pretty cool! I remember that old robot show where these robots would flip each other over, and skewered each other with spikes. Love the mini city battleground.
An atlas would be great, but wouldn't be easy to knock over compared to quad legged ones? Though an atlas on the field would be a victory in itself, and you should win by default for pure awesomeness.
As for the heat gun, I saw a youtube video of that.. I tried torching it lightly (with a butane jet lighter) Which I thought would have a similar effect, It cleans up the edges a bit, but almost makes it plyable until it cools. Might be too hot for PLA. Will do more research on heat gun.
yeah, the trick with a heat gun is patience and distance. TOo close, you melt stuff, a little distance, at first it feels like you are doing nothin, but then suddenly BANG, you hit the perfect heat point.
That gatling gun sounds like simple bead blasting, which is used to smooth all kinds of things, from intake manifolds to you name it.
#100
Posted 04 June 2013 - 05:28 PM
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