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Which Would Be Better For Mwo


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#21 mechnut450

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Posted 12 January 2016 - 04:49 PM

son of a *-*-**-** now it screwing up in desktop, the montior just kicks out and i have to restart the computer to get any type of display.

#22 Lord Letto

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Posted 13 January 2016 - 10:57 AM

430*F CPU Temp! That's like 211*C! ~3x the Max Temp, I'm Highly Surprised it Hasn't Melted or Caught Fire!
GPU Temps are Nice, Better then my Radeon HD 6970 with the Stock/Reference Cooler (Maxes out in the Low-Mid 70*C Range, like 71-74*C)
WIth those Temps in mind, I'm Highly Suspicious of the CPU Screwing things up, Not the GPU.

#23 mechnut450

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Posted 13 January 2016 - 11:21 AM

Lord Letto like i a said in that post I never been able to get a reasonable ( accurate ) temp reading for my computer with this board from day one. a lot of the programs I used told me that it was frozen most the time, that why I run a water cooler just to make sure it safe lol. I watch the gpu last night sit at about 122 F( 52C) idling last night and higher during the stress test that was ran by 2 different programs. and the cpu temps read -20 for a while so I know my thermal hardware for it is screwed up so I locked my fans(pump) at 50 % power all the time. I may have to do this with the gpu controller software until I replace my gpu... I may have to for a r9 290 instead of the r9 380 like I wanted my boss saying he cutting hours ( yet I got called in hour early and left a hour later than I was schedule lol )

#24 Catamount

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Posted 13 January 2016 - 11:27 AM

As long as CPU stress tests aren't reporting errors, your CPU temperature is fine, at least for the short term (though it could be borderline enough for long-term damage for all we know). This isn't the first time I've heard of a motherboard that gives incorrect temperature data, though I have to admit, I haven't seen that issue in a long time.

Edited by Catamount, 13 January 2016 - 11:28 AM.


#25 mechnut450

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Posted 18 January 2016 - 05:37 PM

ok so I am swapping out some parts in the near future and here what I was offered( someone I know upgrading to a better system and I doing the work and here what I getting as they jumping up to the top of line parts.

cpu
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16819113285

mobo
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16813128627

ram ( 16 gig worth unless he keeps it and i will just transfer my 8 gig stick)
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16820226756

with my ssd and my data drive ( 1tb ) and if i do it right running my windows 10 ( once I reinstall everything ) I be back up . I will only have to get a video card later on.
I did a reinstall of OS and so far it MWO and video card been running fine. so I think I might be in good shape for a few more years once I get everything settle

#26 Golrar

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Posted 20 January 2016 - 08:40 PM

That set up will *work* for a few years, but you will be middle road to low road for most of it.I understand budget constraints, but just don't expect the unrealistic performance with that processor.

Coming from the guy with an FX-8350. If I could turn back time...

#27 mechnut450

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Posted 21 January 2016 - 03:40 PM

Oh I know. But every little bit help and it was free I can't complain. I going to going to turn the old system into a camera system to watch the house or something. Tired of people thinking they can just walk up and do what they want around here. Lol Plus I figure when I can toss ati R9 360 card it help a lot.

#28 mechnut450

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Posted 29 January 2016 - 11:19 AM

well i ma up and running again but man with those other parts you cna feel some heat form the water cooler I guess I shall have to look into a larger unit and all. the little 120 not cutting it very well. ( might work better if i set the fan to pull heat out too.

#29 Golrar

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Posted 29 January 2016 - 07:25 PM

If your Rad only has one 120mm fan (Corsair H-60?) then mount another fan to the opposite side and run a push/pull to increase airflow across the fins. Depending on which way your flow goes (into the case or out) you will either have a positive or negative pressure in the case so you might want to add another case fan going the opposite direction. Although a negative pressure should be better to keep dust from building up, so there is that.

I like to have more air flowing out of the case than going in. Seems to keep it cooler, but in turn heats up the room the PC is in. But upside of that is smaller gas bill in the winter for me! I'm thinking of building a duct sort of like a dryer that vents to the outside for the summer! Or, I could just go Intel.

#30 xWiredx

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Posted 29 January 2016 - 08:26 PM

Well, some level of heat is to be expected from those FX chips. They're heavy hitters in the wattage department.

#31 mechnut450

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Posted 01 February 2016 - 05:53 PM

well the water cooler is about as old as the previous cpu ( 10 years) so it time to upgrade it too I guess.

#32 JSmith7784

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Posted 01 February 2016 - 06:11 PM

will a CLC water cooler even last 10 years? I thought they tend to lose fluid even though they are "sealed". Maybe its a myth, but thought I read somewhere about evaporation through the hoses. I would figure at 10 years old there might not be enough coolant in the CLC to function properly. Just an idea.

#33 Golrar

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Posted 01 February 2016 - 11:54 PM

If the Cooler is ten years old, I don't think i would trust it either. I can only image what you would have paid for something like that ten years ago. That's way back when dinosaurs walked the Earth.Posted Image

#34 mechnut450

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Posted 02 February 2016 - 04:05 AM

lol yeah I want to replace it ( i think it paid like 80 bucks for it.) it was a off brand and a lot of mixed reviews lol at the time.

#35 mechnut450

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Posted 03 February 2016 - 01:38 PM

well i took apart today and spun the fan around, and I shook the rad a little and i can hear air in the dang thing. ( a lot of air from the sound. ) am now looking to find a replacement., but the case I have is weird so I need to look into a custom unit I guess. DO they make a radiator that 240x say 100 deep my fans are right against the memory and unless I figure out how to mount it all on the outside of the case , i have to use a self build kit.( more comfortable with a sealed unit ) or a way to mount it all on the case top and run the wires and tubes though the back some how..

I had to grind off were the screw goes to fit around the memory so I need some cheap build ideas. I was on new egg looknig for the older style bay cooling units but i had no luck seeing one.

#36 xWiredx

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Posted 03 February 2016 - 06:39 PM

View Postmechnut450, on 03 February 2016 - 01:38 PM, said:

well i took apart today and spun the fan around, and I shook the rad a little and i can hear air in the dang thing. ( a lot of air from the sound. ) am now looking to find a replacement., but the case I have is weird so I need to look into a custom unit I guess. DO they make a radiator that 240x say 100 deep my fans are right against the memory and unless I figure out how to mount it all on the outside of the case , i have to use a self build kit.( more comfortable with a sealed unit ) or a way to mount it all on the case top and run the wires and tubes though the back some how..

I had to grind off were the screw goes to fit around the memory so I need some cheap build ideas. I was on new egg looknig for the older style bay cooling units but i had no luck seeing one.

240x120 is a standard size. I've not seen a 240x100. You could go with a 120x120 that is extra thick if that would work better.

#37 mechnut450

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Posted 03 February 2016 - 07:50 PM

my problem is a 120x120 is what I have and it won't Aline with the case either the unit too deep with a fan on it or the spacing above/below the radiator is too much and won't let me safely put the screws in to hold it in place ( everything has to shift down ( when mounted in the back ) so only part of the air is unblocked ) and along the top the memory chips and clips are in the way so I got to get either a diy cooler set up ( and that about 300 bucks) and mount the rad on the outside of the case ( possible the fans too) get a larger case or look for a high end stock cooler and hope it enough.

#38 xWiredx

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Posted 03 February 2016 - 07:52 PM

Could I maybe get a picture or a link to the case you're using?

#39 mechnut450

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Posted 04 February 2016 - 05:40 AM

ok here the closest case to what I have

http://www.thermalta...tion/design.htm

board is a
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16813128627

I can try to post pictures later if need( would require me to shut down the pc to pull it out but no problem

#40 xWiredx

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Posted 04 February 2016 - 05:58 AM

Yeah, I'd still need to actually see what you're working with. I can't imagine a modern case where a 120x120 radiator doesn't fit.

Looking at the board and case you linked, the radiator should definitely fit at the rear and probably at the top. The top might be a little tight, it's hard to tell how big the gap actually is there.

Depending on how your system actually looks, maybe I could suggest a high-end Noctua cooler or something, too. Dunno, we'll see once you get a picture or two.





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